20 Most Recent Samsung 2.0 cu ft Over-the-Range Microwave Stainless Steel SMH9207ST Questions & Answers

Couple of things that might help everyone... That front cover is most definitely held on with not just adhesive (which is pretty tough) but by ten (10) little fingers which go through to the plastic door panel it's mounted on and which have to be pried up before starting to remove the silver front trim piece. Note here that you will NOT be able to remove that front trim in reasonable shape, go ahead and plan on replacing it when you get the new touch panel and/or control panel. It's too thin and bendable to withstand what it will take to remove it. Also, the adhesive holding it on is a little known material designed by Ingen for the restraint of small to medium dinosaurs, so keep your putty knife handy for cutting through it. There's also a thin layer of silicone around the edges of that trim, but it pulls away pretty easy.After that you just pull the touch panel away from the framework. It's also glued on, but not strongly.EDIT: That front trim costs more than the replacement touch panel. So I'd recommend being as careful as possible with it and straightening out what damage is done when you remove it.

The "fan" is defective.

Cleane the door switches or chang them.

Not all the electronics are in the door; probably just the low voltage timer/programmer/controller. If the appliance is under warranty you shouldn't attempt to repair it. Describing the noise as big isn't really very helpful. Considering this is a premium priced and complex appliance, it would be best not to attempt any repair but to entrust it to a repair shop, preferably an approved service shop, meanwhile disconnect it from the supply.

Thanks Michael but the problem is the light & vent buttons got pushed in so far that I can't use the fan or light. Please help!!!!

First check is the main fuse of the unit. On countertop units, you will need to take the shell off. The fuse will be close to where the cord comes through into the unit. OTR units, this main fuse is usually behind the control panel or possibly behind the vent. Usually the fuse is obvious if blown, otherwise test with an OHM meter, if open, replace fuse.Some brands will also have a thermal cut-off fuse in the incoming voltage line to the control board. Older Maytags and Samsungs have this fuse in it. This thermostat looking fuse is usually above the oven cavity somewhere under the outside shell. Sometimes you can get to it through the vent of OTR models. Test with an OHM meter, replace if open.remember use VOM. God bless you

Full DIY details on the official repair are on my page here:

http://www.microwavecontrol.com/samsung_se_error.htm

Scroll down to find your model number.

For the official repair information as per the Samsung bulletin, see http://www.microwavecontrol.com/samsung_se_error.htm See my profile picture if you need more help.

Unless there is grease, moisture, or some other foreign material deposits on your control circuit board, "SE" means you have a shorted membrane keypad. For the official repair information as per the Samsung bulletin, see http://www.microwavecontrol.com/samsung_se_error.htm See my profile picture if you need more help.

There are 2 thermostats or "thermal fuses" in it that would cause no power. One is on the magnetron, the other is above the microwave cavity near the middle. Have you checked/replaced both? You should have 120 volts between the white wire on the main relay on the circuit board & the black wire in the smaller connector on the board. If you do, bad board, if not, something before the board (fuses, thermostats, noise filter board, etc). Door switches, diode, capacitor would not cause no power to unit. If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeffrey_634abadf963e31e5

Yes, an adapter/kit should have come with the unit and then you would have to buy the piping etc.If you do not have the adapter/kit get it from the manufacturer or unit seller.

You must remove & disassemble the door (I know, duh! :) ). DISCLOSURE--I haven't replaced the spring, BUT, I did disassemble the door to get at the display board and in so doing, did see the spring/latch assembly. So, I can help with getting the door apart, but not the replacement of the spring itself, but from the looks of it, is should be pretty easy. Total time: 1 -2 hours, 4 ice teas and lunch. 1. UNPLUG THE UNIT. 2. Remove the grill atop the unit; 2 phillips screws. Gently slide the grill to the left to unhook it from the unit. This reveals the screw holding the right side cover. 3. There are wires connecting the door to the MV. Reach inside and find the connector; it will separate with some squeezing. 4. The door will come off easily by lifting up at the hinge (be careful: there are cheap plastic parts around here). WORK ON A SOMETHING SOFT TO PREVENT SCRATCHING THE FINISH. 5. Lay the door upside down. Remove the screws holding the handle on. There are 2 plastic pieces between the metal handle and the door glass. They will probably fall to pieces when you take the handle off. Yes...this is the quality of plastic manufacturers use. PRESERVE THESE AS MUCH AS POSSIBLE, EVEN IF THEY ARE BROKEN. If you need to replace them, they are probably available and cheap. Or not...so try and keep them, Now the door can lay flat. 6. Now you have to get the plastic trip out. Some suggest a thin putty knife, or similar. Get it in-between the trim and the metal on the inside edge of the trim and the plastic of the door on the other side; there are simple tabs that hold it in. You're just gonna have to carefully feel around until you get an edge up. Then another. Once you get it going you'll be OK. Once the trim is off, you should be able to get to the spring and do the replacement. If not, you may need to remove an additional piece of the inner door, held on by 4 screws and tabs you need to pry at with putty knife/flat screw driver. It was some hard work getting it off without breaking bending stuff and required some finger strength and stuff to prop it open on one edge while I worked on another. Give the parts a good cleaning. Reassemble in reverse. Cleaning tip: Scrubbing bubbles works great for cleaning icky kitchen grease, although it can leave a film (but it gets the grease!). Follow up with windex (but use a windex-dampened paper towel on plastic to prevent scratching)

If you mean the 4 silver buttons on the lower right of the unit controlling the lite and fan, then see the instructions below...However, if you mean the control panel buttons in the door surrounding the clock display, then you and I are in the same boat. But I digress... 0. UNPLUG THE UNIT 1. Remove the grill atop the unit, 2 phillips screws. Gently slide the grill to the left to unhook it from the unit. This reveals the screw holding the right side cover. 2. Remove the screw holding the cover in place; you can now pull it away from the unit. You must disconnect the wires/plugs from the back. Take a photo for reference. One plug will remain: this belongs to the buttons in question. 3. Set it on a soft cloth to prevent scratching. Remove the screws holding the circuit board in place and the remaining plug; remove the board, then remove the metal tray/box underneath the board. 4. The PCB with the buttons is now visible. There are tabs holding it in place; gently pry them off and the board, a thin plastic shield and the buttons should come free. Now you can clean/replace the buttons and/or the membrane buttons. Reassemble in reverse. Cleaning tip: Scrubbing bubbles works great for cleaning icky kitchen grease, although it can leave a film (but it gets the grease!). Follow up with windex (but use a windex-dampened paper towel on plastic to prevent scratching)

bad touchpad If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeffrey_634abadf963e31e5