20 Most Recent Goodman CKL36AR36 Air Conditioner - Page 7 Questions & Answers

Serial number 0103 = 2001, March. It is now 2011 so your unit is just over 10 years old or about half its life has been used.

Usually a capacitor will fail when it overheats, this could be due to the capacitor being the wrong voltage or microfarad rating. Also if the motor that the capacitor is connected is using too much amperage it will shorten the life of the capacitor.

your heater has a delay sequencer that controls it and sometimes it takes a litlle while to the fan blower in the airhandler to stop or you may have a wrong wiring in the thersmostat.

Not a simple answer as how well the home is insulated and how many window's, doors etc. play an important role as well as your geographical location. If the home has adequate insulation and the doors and windows are tight then I would think a 3 ton unit would do the job.

Hope this helps!

The terminals are standard for the industry. The t-stat should have R G W Y C etc. and the air handler the same. Just take your time when connecting according to color code.

R=Red
G=Green
W=White
Y=Yellow
B=Blue

Hope this helps. Let me know if I can be of further assistance.

Audie

If it's in cool mode, the outside fan definitely should run to remove the heat. If it's heat mode the outside fan will start only when pressure build up. If it's problem with condenser fan definitely the breaker or fuse will be blown when the amphs increased.

Check to see if breaker to unit has tripped.If it has you may have a bad motor. You may have a bad control transformer in the air handler,not sending 24 volts to tstat.

if it lights and goes right back out its the flame sensor if it dont lite at all check all of your rollout and limit switchs ( they look like buttons) just jump them out with a jumper wire also you can jump out the gas valve to see if it works by putting a jumper wire ( small section of wire with alligator clips on both ends ) from the red terminal screw on the low volage side to the m1 terminal it will click open if it works , make sure the door switch is closed so you can have power while testing . do not try to leave furnace on with jumpers in it will burn your house down !!

all heaters smell that way after a long time of not useing it, it's the lint and hair ,dust built up in the unit,clowny daggers

ckl36ar36 is a 3 ton. If both came as a set it should be a three ton system.

The problem could be the capacitor for the fan motor or the fan motor itself. Turn off the power and use a long screwdriver to see if the fan will turn freely. If it doesn't it needs to be replaced. If it spins freely then check the capacitor. You can do that with a multimeter with the capacitor check function or take it to a heating and air supply and they can check it for you. If the capacitor looks swollen then it is bad. Some units use a three terminal capacitor that is connected to the fan and compressor. Make sure you check the fan side but it wouldn't hurt to check both while you're at it. If the capacitor is good then use an ohmmeter to make sure the fan motor windings a not open or shorted. The increasing noise probably comes from the head pressure building on the compressor because the fan isn't running.

check the capacitor .turn off breaker first take off the panel on the condensor to see parts .capacitor is silver. round or oval .that is your problem most likley. that helps the fan an compressor start .or could need a hard start capacitor that will hook up to the one capacitor on the unit that will fix it ...unless their is a burnt or broken wire ..look at the wires too good luck

try cleani ng the unit outside with your garden hose first .sounds like its kinda dirty .the dirty er the coil is the higher the amp draw is when it is running .what size is the breaker in the box .thats a 3 an a half ton condensor

3 ton unit the 36 in the numbers means 36 thousand btu 12 thousand btu per ton

The click you hear is the contactor getting pulled in whe there is a call for cooling. There are a couple of things you can check before calling someone.
1. Make sure you are getting 220v power to the unit. (breaker tripped, fuses in disconnect box outside).
If you have a volt meter, you can just check the power at the box before and after the fuses, if any at all.
2. If you are getting power, you can check the capacitor. The capacitor is a round or oval object with 2 or more wires going to it in the units electrical compartment. A visual check can be done by seeing if the top of the capacitor is bubbled up at all, but sometimes there are no visual indications and will have to be checked with a multi-meter that reads micro-farads (mfds). Capacitors are a common cause of a unit not powering on and pretty cheap to fix yourself, you can pick them up at a local A/C supply store.
If you have a tripped breaker or a blown fuse and the breaker trips again right after or a fuse blows again, you might have a shorted compressor and will have to be looked at by a technician. Hope this points you in the right direction!

Your going to need to know the age of the unit. If its less than 5 years old, its most likely a 13 SEER. If its anything more than 5 years old, its most likely a 10 SEER. If its anything over 10 years old, its most likely an 8 or 6 SEER.

Remember, that a unit will loose an average of 1-2 SEER for every full year of operation. This is just due to age, wear and tear, and usage.



So, if its a 10 SEER unit that is 7 years old, you could say that it is about as efficient as something in the 4-6 SEER range.

Ice on the lines and evaporator coil are caused by either the system being incorrectly charged, which has to be fixed by a technician, or a restriction in the air flow which can be dirty filters or a dirty coil. Assuming that your blower motor is working, you can check the filters and coil before calling anyone. To check the indoor coil, you will need to remove the front panel on the coil box and if you have a downflow system, you will be able to see if the coil is dirty without removing anything else, but if you have an upflow system, you will also need to remove the smaller panel that is attached to the coil itself and take a look inside. This can be a task sometimes, but well worth the money saved. Hope this helps!

The capacitor is located inside the access panel on the unit. It should be attached to the housing within. These are fairly cheap if you replace yourself, just be sure to get the exact same micro-farads that the used one has. Also remember that a capacitor stores electricity and the terminals should be grounded before replacing.

1. Check the breaker to see if it has been tripped.
2. Check fuses on the outside disconnect switch.
3. Check contactor switch inside electrical panel on outside unit to make sure it is getting a call for cooling, you will hear a humming sound if it is working.
4. Capacitor is bad. Check with a multi-meter that read micro farads. Remove wires from the Herm terminal and place leads on bare terminals. Mfds should read within 5mfds of what capacitor is rated.

Anything else would require trouble-shooting the compressor which can get extensive. Also if you have tripped a breaker or blew a fuse, the compressor could have shorted out. In case of a short, do not keep trying to replace fuses or resetting the breaker. Hope this points you in the right direction!