20 Most Recent Goodman CLQ36AR49 Air Conditioner - Page 3 Questions & Answers

If your description is in a few minutes, It sounds like a loose wire. If it is the outside fan motor to which you were referring, it should have 3 wires. Find those 3 wires and trace them back to the control board and main contactor. check the condition of any connections and the condition of the insulation. Next, If it is the blower motor, do the same thing. It also sounds like it could be the control wiring. The blower control wire is the green wire coming from the thermostat and going to the fan control board in the air handler. If you have a loose connnection in the thermostat and/or loose connnection for some splice in that wire, it could interrupt the control power to the blower motor and cause it to cycle. If it is the condensing fan on the condensing unit, it is the yellow wire. Check the same criteria as green wire above. As far as the last of your inquiry, the air conditioner reaches temperature then turns off is normal and is not part of the problem your having. The only other thing I can think of without more information, If the condensing unit comes on and shortly later turns off, the question is whether the condensing fan comes on when the compressor turns on. I had a case today, both the outdoor fan and compressor would not run, but the main contactor was pulled in, and voltage was available. It turns out the dual capacitor was bad and the condensing fan had stopped running and the compressor was cycling on the inherent motor protection inside the compressor. Inside the compressor is a bimetallic overtemperature switch that helps protect the compressor from getting to hot. This is your probable cause and can be determined by checking the temperature of the condensing fan motor and the temperature of the compressor. If both are so hot your hand gets burned, you probably need an new capacitor and outdoor fan motor. If the compressor cools by turning it off, the inherent motor protection will reset if it has not burned out. If after deenergizing the compressor cool off and will not reset, the compressor will have to be changed. Hope this helps.

the pilot light has nothing to do with the operation of the central 'air' system.

As to the central 'heat' system however, it must be lit.

hope this helps.

Hi,
Yes!!! the fan motor can go bad and just decide to spin the wrong way....it will not work very well like that either...
You will need to replace that motor...

heatman101

There is no reset button.

check your high low pressure control

need to get it checked , it could be the capacitor for the compressor or the fan but if left to long will cause compressor burn out .capacitor should only cost a few bucks 10-20 dollar part just a guess from here but much cheaper .

sounds like chattering coming from the contactor replace it and your buzzing will go away.

When the condenser fan was replaced was the connection correct.? was the capacitor of the same value that we replaced? If not recheck and replace if there is a fault.
If the compressor is running fine and cools but forr the erratic speed of the fan , the voltage to the fan must be checked. If the full voltage is not coming to this stage as the same to the compressor motor,check on the switch and controller to find the loss of voltage.
There can be some instance of power loss in the relay unit or the fault in the replaced capacitor. use a higher value to check if voltage is correct and consistant .
I am sure the fault must be found.

Without looking up the specifications for this heat pump, I cannot be certain, but I expect the operation to provide cooling may require more power than when heating. You probably can find the specifications online for this unit. As you probably know, power is measured in watts and is calculated by voltage times current. This also is likely to be 240 volts operation. If you take the specified power on cooling and divide by voltage (240), that will indicate the current in amperage that will be required to start it. Your circuit breaker is set for current and needs to be a higher current than is required. If that is the problem, you can buy circuit breakers at Home Depot or Lowes. You have to remove the front panel of your breaker box and snap out the circuit breaker. To be safe it would be good to turn off the main breaker switch before you open the front panel and remove the circuit breaker for the heat pump. Should your calculation of current required be less than the rating of the circuit breaker, that implies a malfunction of the heat pump in the cooling mode and would require a service call to the local representative of the heat pump manufacturer.

Sounds like the fan motor has reached its endpoint. It will have to be removed and replaced. Find the dircuit breaker in your electric panel that supplies power to the air conditioner unit. When you have found the right one, even the humming sounds will be absent. The fan usually is at the top of the unit. You must have opened this to change the capacitor. Remove the fan band motor as a unit and take it to a store like Grangers and determine if they have a motor that would replace the one from your unit. If the motor has a model number on it, you may find a replacement available onlilne by Googling that number and the name Amana. Put electricians tape over the wires that led to the motor, just in case someone turns on the circuit breaker before you have completed the job

just use stranded wire from a hardware or auto store of the same gauge

sounds like compressor is running but fan is not. it could be capacitor but it could also be the fan motor

normally due to positive and negative air pressure mixing while the water is coming out, it means your almost vapor locked, and sounds as though the drain is not properly trapped. You should have at least 1/2 of fall per foot or run on the drain and it should be trapped with a p-trap or running trap to prevent it from a vapor lock, and to keep the air outside from mixing with you conditioned air inside by entering though the drain.

R-red wire(power) G-green wire(fan) Y-yellow wire(cooling) W-white wire(heating) O-orange wire(reversing valve for heat pumps) C-brown or blue wire(common but optional if using batteries in t-stat)

does that unit run heating or just the fan run? if just the fan you may have a bad fan thermostat

look for red reset button.look where low voltage wiring comes in to unit.listen for buzz or hum from outdoor unit when thermostat is calling for heat.if heard,could be high voltage fuse or tripped breaker in panel next to unit.if not cautious electrocution can occur.suggest local service company for diagnosis.

USE EXTREME CAUTION WHEN EXAMINING high voltage wiring.

HIGH VOLTAGE SUPPLY. Open high voltage control box and turn off power by pulling dissconnect or switching off breaker.

Check that the reversing valve is not stuck. TAP on it with the plastic end of a screw driver while the system is calling for 1st stage heat. Check low voltage wiring at outdoor unit from t-stat.

Thermostat brings on inside unit but not outside ?

Does the fan turn on, or do you just hear the burner fire up and then shut down?

Hi and welcome to FixYa, I am Kelly. The reversing valve making noise (probably a 60 cycle noise) is a sign that the reversing valve is not stoking a full stroke to where the armature of the coil is neutralized by the internal plunger moving to the neutral position. Sometimes you can take 2 hammer handles to the BODY of the reversing valve with some careful strikes so as not to DENT the body and loosen up the internal piston so that it strokes fully. If that does not make it snap out of the buzzing routine then the only option is to replace the reversing valve. This will require the system to be drained of coolant, purged, the valve replaced and then the system recharged which does not come cheaply. It is not going to hurt anything buzzing. I know it is irritating and annoying but my thoughts are if you can give it some wooden taps and at least quiet it down some what to leave it alone unless your willing to go though the expense of a full system drain & service + a service call with a reversing valve change.
Here is the worst that can happen.... the solenoid on the reversing valve gets hot from not fully stroking and fails at which point you get the new reversing valve installed.

Thanks for choosing FixYa,
Kelly