20 Most Recent Haier XQG50-11 Front Load Washer / Dryer - Page 4 Questions & Answers

Question edited for clarity. My guess is that your drain hose is too high. The pump is in the base of the washer and pushes the water up the tube and into the drain/ when the pump stops, the residual water in the hose drops back into the base of the machine, so the higher the hose, the greater the column of water. https://www.manualslib.com/manual/837407/Haier-Hlp21n.html?page=10#manual Or The Drain Pump is blocked or failing. ..

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this could possibly help.... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D2jYHVzu0Sg

The first thing to do is to clean the machine following the manufacturer's directions in the owner's manual. I've seen a number of washing machines that generated fault codes because lint or other muck gummed up a sensor; the cleaning process often is enough to take care of the problem. In the U. S., we have a product called CLR (Calcium, Lime and Rust remover) that does a nice job of cleaning out washing machines. I think the primary ingredient is dilute citric acid. Some manufacturers recommend chlorine bleach - go with what is in the manual first. If the cleaning process doesn't eliminate the error code, yes, you probably still can fix the washer, if you can open it. If you know the model number, you may even be able to obtain a service manual that will tell you what to look for. Warning: unplug the machine before removing any covers. Exposed electrical terminals are a shock hazard if the machine is plugged in. Some appliances have a wiring diagram attached inside, or on a service sheet stored inside the control panel. If you find it, the wires going to the temperature sensor will be identified by the colors. For example, a YEL/BLK wire is yellow with a black stripe. You can trace these wires to find and identify the temperature sensor. Once you find the sensor (it will be somewhere in contact with the wash water, probably on or near the tub), inspect the electrical connections at the sensor and at the control unit, and clean up or repair any corroded connections. Check the wiring to make sure it hasn't been pinched between parts and damaged. If the wiring looks good, take the sensor out and remove any muck that is built up on it. Be sure to wipe clean the gasket or o-ring, and any sealing surfaces in contact with the gasket. Re-install, put the machine back together (being careful not to pinch any wires between parts or panels!) and test it. If you still get the error, you may have to replace either the sensor or the controller.

Take the 4 screws out of the top section, lift up the whole top. You will see a bar. You must lift the top so the bar raises above the drum. Take the screws out of the plastic cover and check the bar .it has 2 round ends that rest in two holes. If it came out of one simply place it back in the hole. You will hear it click when pressing it. Put back together. Problem solved.

Hi, Try a power cycle before replacing any parts. You can also turn your dial counter clockwise and retest the wash. Otherwise, I would suggest setting up an appointment with home depot to get a full list of parts that need to be replaced in your washer. Thank you.

If resetting the washer doesn’t work, the limit switch may be stuck. The sensor for a unbalanced load is a limit switch. The switch should snap back into standby position when the wash tub comes to a stop. Sometimes the switch will stay stuck. Move the barrel by hand back and forth until it hits the inner walls of washer. It may knock the switch back in place.

Part 42 it is a magnetic switch https://www.fix.com/models/washer/haier/id848615/gwt460aw/section6864983/control-panel/ ..

Question edited for clarity. MAKE MODEL (WHAT IT IS) in all questions please. Category moved from Computers to Haier Washing Machines. It is a washing machine not a computer. There is not normally a reset. Sometimes just removing the mains plug will reset the logic board. Or, you press and hold the On Button as you plug in and hold for 6 seconds. My searching leads my to believe there is no reset. https://www.google.com/search?q=haier+hltw600axw+reset ..

There could be something wrong with the loading senor for your washing machine and it should be looked at and repaired from someone that fixes washing machines and the load sensor needs to be replaced too.

No it doesn't. What is the problem? If no power then control module has probably died.

Try a new rubber gasket in hose

Washer will not drain: Thedrain water pumpis the main part in your washing machine that pumps out the water. If this is defective or has failed in any way, this will be the reason why your washer will not drain the water. Before you order a new drain pump, make sure tocheck the pump to be sure a small object like clothing or similar has not lodged itself insideof it causing the NO DRAIN issue and even a no spin issue?. If the drain pump is not clogged, you can test it with a multimeter and remove and replace if needed. Read more: http://removeandreplace.com/2014/10/30/fix-washing-machine-that-wont-drain-washer-not-draining-water/#ixzz3X2LbXMWJ The washing machinedrain hoseis where the water flows through to get the water out.If this drain hose is blocked, kinked, bent, or clogged, the washer will NOT be able to remove the waterfrom the tub. Check the drain hose to be sure it allows the water to flow freely. You can take the drain hose off and run water through it in your sink to be sure it is not blocked. If there is water STILL in the washer when you remove the drain hose, grab a bucket as the water will exit from where you disconnected it Thewater pump belt(to drain out the water) may have broke or become frayed or loose.If this belt breaks then it is unable to drain and remove the water from your washer. Inspect the belt to see if this is causing theNO DRAINissue and remove and replace if needed. If thelid switchis not working as required it will cause your washer to not drain (and many other problems).This may be unlikely as a bad lid switch will usually cause your washer to alsonot agitate or spin.However on some models this can vary. The best thing to do if you have a suspected bad lid switch is to test it. It can fail electrically and or mechanically. If mechanical failure is the issue, you should be able to see if it is cracked, broken, or not in place to make contact with the lid. To test it electrically, use a multimeter set on Ohms and test it for continuityMy advice is free cuz God is good!

My machine saids E2, I already did all the steps for this kind of E2. What I should do now?

try running a minimum load with light clothes. If it still does it, look for something broken that holds the tub in place, maybe a spring.