20 Most Recent Haier HTE18WAA Top Freezer Refrigerator - Page 8 Questions & Answers

Try again cause I don't understand your question.

I'm not sure it has one, why what is the problem?

feel the top of the compressor is it warm or is it clicking noise or is it hot can you tell me that? Appliance 911 Sea Breeze

as it goes up it gets colder ans 7

ICE MAKER not making ice: Inspect Water fill tube, Inspect the ice maker mold to see if there are ice cubes present. If there are no cubes or very small cubes, then you should look for issues with the water fill system. Inspect the fill tube and the fill cup area at the back of the ice maker to make sure that they are not frozen. If there is an ice buildup in that area, confirm no foreign objects have disrupted the flow of water into the fill cup. If nothing obvious has caused the ice buildup then suspect the inlet valve, tubing or low water pressure. Inspect the outlet tubing from the fill valve to the ice maker fill tube for any signs of restrictions and replace if necessary. WATER INLET VALVE: Check the water inlet valve for any restrictions. You will need to shut off the valve from the household water supply before you disconnect the inlet tubing. Some water inlet valves may have a screen to filter debris before it can enter the valve. If the screen is plugged, water flow will be restricted and the result will be small or layered ice cubes. Remove and clean the screen or replace the valve. If dirt has gotten into the valve it may not shut off completely and will continuously drip water into the ice maker fill tube and will eventually freeze up. Low household water pressure or a restriction at the manual shut off valve will also cause the water inlet valve to not shut off completely and create this same condition. Self piercing saddle valves are the most common shut off valve to cause this problem as the hole that is pierced in the water line is often too small and will more easily become restricted. The water inlet valve is operated by line voltage supplied through the ice maker control. Power is applied for approximately 7-9 seconds during the harvest cycle and energizes the solenoid on the valve to allow water to flow. You can check the solenoid for continuity with a multi-meter. On models with multiple solenoid inlet valves, you will need to determine which portion or portions of the valve are used for the ice maker. You can normally follow the inlet tubing from the ice maker back to the valve. Unplug the refrigerator and turn off the water supply to the valve before working with this part. (HOW TO TEST INLET VALVE: Inspect the filter screen where the supply line connects. Remove any debris or deposits that may have built up using a toothbrush or warm running water. If you cannot clear theclog, it will be necessary to replace the valve (the filter is not removable on most inlet valves). Test thewaterinletvalve for continuity using a multImeter. First, inspect the coil for an indication of it's ohm rating. If no information is printed on the coil, then use the range of 170 to 500 ohms. Set the multitester to the ohms setting X100 (if available, otherwise use the nearest ohm setting). Place a probe on each terminal. The multitester should display a reading that matches the coil's rating or if you don't know the rating then it should fall into the range of 170 to 500 ohms. If the water inlet valve does not pass this test, it should be replaced. If the inlet valve has two coils, test the second coil in the same way (note that they may not have the same ohm rating). The valve can also fail mechanically. So even if it passes the electrical test, it may still require replacement. If you have ruled out all other possibilities, go ahead and replace the valve. Check the tap valve.A bad tap valve-the little device that connects the ice maker's water supply tube to the water pipe-may cause the problem where the ice maker's supply tube connects to the water pipe. If necessary, replace the inlet valve and the tap valve. For the tap valve, use the type that requires you to drill a 1/4-inch hole (as opposed to the "self-piercing" type). You can buy anice maker connection kitand do this yourself, or call a repair person or plumber to install an inline water filter when replacing the valve. Lastly the ICE MAKER ASSEMBLY: If there are no ice buildup issues or suspected problems with the water supply, then you may have a problem with the ice maker control. The most common type of ice maker used in modern refrigerators is the heat release ice maker. The ice maker uses heat to release the ice cubes. If the water's route is blocked or the solenoid doesn't work-or if the bail wire is lifted-the ice maker won't make ice. (Also note that your home's water pressure may not be strong enough to serve an ice maker.) If you have a heat release or modular ice maker it will have a removable cover at the front. Behind the cover is a series of electrical test points that can be used to diagnose the ice maker. The unit can be manually operated by inserting an insulated jumper wire into test points "T" and "H" to initiate a "test harvest". On other ice makers jumper at points N & M (neutral to Motor) The jumper should be insulated 14 gauge solid wire that has the insulation stripped back about 3/4 of an inch on both ends, and bent into a "U" shape. When inserted into the test points for 5 to 10 seconds, the motor should start and the cycle will continue on its own. You may have to manually close the freezer door switch for this to operate. This test will simulate a real harvest cycle and will operate the ejector blades, shut off arm and the fill valve in the proper sequence, and will allow you to do a proper diagnosis. This is a live voltage test and should only be performed by a qualified person. If the motor does not start, you can verify that you have power to the ice maker at test points "L" and "N". If the ice maker is getting power and does not perform a cycle, then the module will need to be replaced On component mode ice makers the testing is done differently. Testing a thermostat in a component ice maker: The thermostat is located near the bottom ofthe support box. The thermostat is connected by two or three wires.Label the wire placement before disconnecting them. Remove thethermostat by loosening the clamp, by pushing back the retainerclips, or by removing the retaining screws. Test the thermostat forcontinuityusing amultitesterset to the ohms setting X1. Start by testing the thermostat whenit has come up to room temperature (about 20 minutes after removing it from the freezer). If the thermostat has two wires touch one probe to each wire. You should get a reading of infinity.Chill the thermostat in the freezer for about twenty minutes andretest. This time you should get a reading of zero (continuity). If the thermostat has three wires, number them 1, 2 and 3. Test combinations 1 & 2, 1 & 3and 2 & 3 and write down the results. Two of the combinations should yield a reading of infinity and one should yield a readingof zero. Now chill the thermostat in the freezer for about twenty minutes and retest. The combination that had a zero reading before, should now have a reading of infinity. One of the two other combinations should now yield a zero reading.If the thermostat fails this test, it should be replaced. Testing a modular ice maker 'sthermostatcan be tested and replaced individually. Test the thermostat forcontinuityusing amultitesterset to the ohms setting X1. Start by testing the thermostat when it is cold (10 degrees). Insert one probe into the hole labeled "T" and the other probe into the hole labeled "H". The meter should indicate zero resistance (continuity). After the ice maker has warmed up, repeat the test and this time the meter should indicate infiinity (no continuity).If the thermostat does not pass both tests, it should be replaced.

need to replace compressor or starter on compressor

THE COMPRESSOR: If you hear a clicking sound coming from the back of your refrigerator/freezer, then the problem is most likely the compressor, relay and or capacitor is overheating or not getting proper power and will not start.The compressor is the component on your refrigerator that allows your refrigerator to cool. If this component is not working properly your refrigerator will stop cooling. Most of the time the compressor is not the component that has failed. To check ur compressor with multi meter: Disconnect and remove the relay and capacitor from compressor, somes located next to compressor in a casing. You wills see 3 prongs coming out of compressor. 1 goes to ur srtart winding, 1 goes to ur run winding and the center goes to ur ground. Place ur meter connector or prong on the start prong and the other on the ground (center prong) take note of the reading in OHMS for example 5 ohms. Next place meter prong on run prong and the center ground prong agin. Take note of the reading in OHMS. Example 4 ohms Next place meter prong on the start prong and the other on the run prong, now take note of the reading example 9 ohms. Now match the total of this ohms test with the total of ur two separate test. 9 ohms, if they match ur ok give or take 5 percent plus or minus. One more test to make to test of there is a short in compressor attach meter prong to ground prong and rub the other end of meter prong to metal ( scrape the metal clean of paint and test on metal surface not painted surface. If it shows continuity or ohms , u have a short in ur compressor. It should show infinity Lastly you should also check ur THERMISTORS in the freezer and fridge section for continuity OHMS and for amount of OHMS current being put out. In most models around 13000 ( give or take 150 ohms) ohms is required.

u can check ur compressor relay be removing it and using an ohmeter or u can just remove it and shake it and if it rattles its bad. and therefore is not starting ur compressor. but if ur cold control temperature thermostat is bad u will have same problems, was it installed correctly? u can also check it with a meter for voltage and OHMS

cold.

selonoid? sounds more to me like ur cold control thermostat? or bad thermistor or thermistors, however a bad not working fan in freezer will stop air flow and do would a bad damper vent from freezer to fridge if its stuck in an open or close position

Pull the fridge freezer out and see if the loud knocking sound is coming from the compressor. It's that black round thing at the bottom in the back. If it is, it's time to go shopping.

do you hear the compressor come on? can u feel it vibrating? if not? bad relay maybe? is there power from the outlet? may also have a bad cold control thermostat or defrost timer? is ther any heat in the freezer compartment?

hold the button down for few seconds !!!!!! not in the book ???? wankers,...... the tech support said change water filter but said nothing about water reset don 't be in a hurry to get a man out try this first ................................

The heater has stopped working. Most common cause is the heating element or the fan. The element can crack and the crack does not allow electricity to pass. The fan can jamb up after the ice grows so it may not be the first problem. After you melt the ice you can see if the fan spins. Prepare to fix this before you go shopping and call the local appliance parts pros with your model number and ask if they stock the two items. You'll have to run and buy them same day if you can. The heater is accessed by first removing all your food to another refrigerator or coolers and unplugging the unit. Be ready to do this twice because you may have to order the parts and it takes a couple of days or weeks to get them, if not nearby. Open all the doors and allow the ice to melt. Don't try to rush this with a hair dryer, Do not chop it! You may damage other items behind the rear panel and quickly destroy the unit! Use towels on the floor and sop up the water in the freezer with another towel. When the ice melts, you want to open up the rear panel in the freezer. Ususally a 1/4" nut driver fits the nuts on these panels. You will see the evaporating unit, looks like a radiator. Under it is a black/grey rod with a plug on the end, it is the heater element rod. It looks like the same metal as the rod in the bottom of your dishwasher. This rod resists electricity and heats up when activated in cycles allowing the ice to melt, usually every 8-10 hours. The ice builds normally when the fan draws warm air past the evaporator into the tube going to the fresh food area. The evaporator being cold like a glass of iced tea in the summer, condenses the moisture out of the air and it freezes up forming a block of ice on the evaporator. This ice must get melted out every 8-10 hours by a timer that usually doesn't ever fail. Then the fresh food area stays warm because the ice stops the air passage. The water drains by gravity to the bottom of your unit to a dish either above or below the compressor motor. The heat from the motor evaporates the water into your kitchen making the kitchen feel warmer than the rest of the house sometimes. Unplug the refrigerator from the house's power outlet. You will need a person handywith a multimeter to check if you have continuity through the heating element. Unplug the element and attach either wire of the multimeter to either blade of the plug connector on the element, not the fridge. Set the meter to continuity and it should beep or show a resistance value. No value means no conductance or no electricity can pass. If the element has resistance or continuity beep, look toward the fan. Plug in the heater. Step away from the unit and connect the power to see if the fan starts by setting the unit to the coldest setting. If it starts you may have a sensor gone bad. If it doesn't start leave the doors open and wait a few more minutes. It will start the compressor motor because you did have ice before. If the fan doesn't start while the motor is running you should check for power at the fan with your multimeter set to ac volts.Experienced multimeter users only! connect red to the black and black to the opposit wire of the fan. If your wrong it will not read. If your meter has automatic safety for reverse power tests then you can reverse the meter wires to double check. If there is power to the fan then replace the fam motor. If you get no power reading at the fan you may need a new control PCB. Any other parts beyond these I recommend a service tech. They have access to schematic diagrams and can identify circuitry problems.

Hello Omie; My name is Peter. I am a retired field service refrigeration technician. Bottom drawer & bottom freezers are nightmares. Next time but a side by side or top freezer. Ok, lets fix this. Using a hair dryer defrost all of the ice around the door. Next, you have a rack and pinion assembly that the drawer rides on. This also is iced up. Defrost the rack & pinion. When you close the drawer you will probably have a gap on one side. This is caused from the ice build up and the rack and pinion jumping a tooth. Where the side is that has the gap, you must lift the drawer and jerk hard towards the gap to jump a rack and pinion on the opposite side. You may have to repeat this. It is a strong arm operation.

That is what is sounds like but let's check. An overload relay will fail due to wear, a short or a bad compressor will knock it out. There is a rare occasion you may purchased a bad overload relay, but that is rare. The rattling of the overload relay is a good indicator it is bad, however it does not have to rattle to be bad - inspect for burn marks as well. The clicking sound is the overload relay trying to start the compressor. There will be a pause and then click trying to start the compressor again. Remove the overload relay component and expose the three pins on the compressor. Using a multi- meter, measure the Ohms across the three pins. You will get one high Ohm reading and two lower Ohm readings. If the two lower readings add up to the higher reading the compressor is good. Make sure the green ground wire is securely grounded. It could nock out the overload. Check for loose connections. Replacing a compressor is a major repair. The cost will exceed the purchase price. Rule of thumb; "If the cost of the repair is 1/3 or more of the purchase price of the unit, Buy new". As a retired Sears service technician, we considered these units as throw-a-ways due to the high cost of repair. If you had a service contract we would replace the unit rather than repair it