Honda 3000 Watt Portable Generator - Page 3 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

if there is no spark in the plug as you are saying for that matter check the current coil and the inverter section for the loss of current if you have already changed the sparkplug if not do change

if your battery is discharged it will get charged when the genny will start try to start through the recoil starter pulling the rope and check your engine oil level before starting

Governer is an instrument which controls the speed of the engine it is connected to the throttle of the carb just check if it is not stuck somewhere or if it requires adgustment or check your stepper moter as well

you are overloading the generator as per its power out put specifications

if no power on the plugs check for the cercuit breaker fuses and check for your load why it is tripping the circuit breaker the unit sbould not be overloaded

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check or replace the carburetor diaphragm.

With regrets, I do not have any personal experience with generator troubleshooting. However, I have been informed by some people that have good experience with them that a generator needs to be run for a couple of hours every month to keep the system in proper order. Should a generator sit idle for ten months, the fuel can actually "shellac" inside the carburetor and lines. This will then travel to areas that will gum up - thus the necessity to drain the tank and carburetor completely. Here is their advice: http://powerequipment.honda.ca/parts-service/storage-tipsYour service person(s) may not be aware of the time the unit sits idle, and if they are aware - then they are not giving you straight facts (in my opinion). I would suggest contacting Honda customer service directly, and explain this situation to them - they will probably be more then happy to have a technician assist you properly. Contact the 'customer relations' number, and they will direct you from there. Here is the link:http://honda.ca/contact_usI am sorry I couldn't be of more help.

Have you tried cleaning the air filter first. One of the most common reasons for engines not to idle.

You can modify the Exhaust by having a "muffler shop" cut the muffler input tube so that the exhaust port connection remains in place. Then have them add an extension of the pipe to relocate and mount the muffler in a location not sensitive to heat. Try not to go more than 6 feet as the longer the exhaust tubing the more exhaust pressure you will have. Keeping the distance under 6 ft should not impede the operation of the generator. The difficulty with your situation is that you still need the generator to be able to be moved on the raiils without a rigid pipe preventing you from doing so. Additionally you do not want the newly fabricated exhaust pipe close to the gas tank. No matter where you have it relocated to.... your going to have the heat issue to deal with. I do NOT know of any aftermarket modfications for ths Generator that would just bolt on It will have to be fabricated It just sounds to me like this is an adaptation to the RV that was on on the manufactureres list of RV AC Power options.

Thanks,
Kelly

I'm not sure if you can get just the float. I didn't find a listing for it. The complete carb is the way I would go. Keep the old one for parts.

The carb is probably dirty. Remove the carb from the generator and then remove the bowl. If there are signs of corrosion then it will need to be dissassembled and cleaned. This is not a difficult job if you have the proper equipment and tools. If not, you might consider purchasing a replacement for about $65. The part number is 16100-ZL0-D64.

You might have a bad spark plug or plug wire. I know this may sound silly but make sure the unit is full of oil. It has a low oil shutdown that will kill the ignition. You might check the wiring and make sure that it is all connected. Especially the wires going to the ignition switch. These are great generators. Good luck.

The problem you describe points toward a badly needed carburetor rebuild. Generators are probably the one machine where this is the most common because they sit for long periods of time, unused, with fuel in them; NOT good. The reason fuel continually pours out is because the needle valve is stuck in the OPEN position.

What has probably happened is after sitting for a long period of time, the fuel has turned to varnish. This destroys some of the internal parts of the carburetor, such as the rubber gasket around the float bowl and the needle valve & seat.

One other thing that you must check when you have it apart is the float. If you shake the float and you hear liquid sloshing around in it, you will need to replace it as well. If you don't hear anything, you are good.

You will need to find the model number to your motor and call your local parts store for a Carburetor Rebuild Kit. While you have the parts store on the phone, ask them if they can dip yor carburetor in Carb. Dip (Acid) to remove the varnish deposits. Most will do this for you for a very mall fee. They may even do it for FREE.

This will solve the problem.

Good Luck!

Jim

coils over heating

is gas old? is choke on? is fuel turned on?

sounds like your carburator might be dirty there are a couple of pin sized holes that can easily become clogged in the carb if you work on them take apart the carb and get some carb cleaner . you will be suprized to see the crud that will collect in the bowl . I go to homedepoe or lowes to the welding section and get a torch tip cleaner its like 3 or 4 bucks it has some tiny wires with ridges on it that will clean out the holes on it .Your carb might have several types of plugs or methods of securing the bowl to the carb some have a bolt with a screw in the middle some just a bolt some have a spring clip . if it is a bolt with a screw in the middle you can remove it and catch the gas as it drains out once empty remove the bolt to release the bowl there i a gascket on the top rim of the bowl remove any debree from the bowl and spray carb cleaner there is prob a yellow residue from the gas that is the oxyidation gas oxyidizes after thirty days .if the nut you took out has two holes in it use th tip cleaner to clean out the hole then look at the float it hinges on a pin that pushes up a little triangular pin that pin has a rubber tip on it it controlles the flow of gas into the bowl if any of the parts are fowled up to bad or rusted go to a lawn repair shop and get a carb kit for your motor get all info off tag or cant get the right parts with all the emissions on the carbs each one is different.once cleaned out put back together if it still runs funny there is another part that comes off the side of the carb it should be a coveer with 4 screws holding it in place on the inside there is a gasket with a spring on it the spring has an aluminum cover to keep from tearing the gasket up replace it with a new one the little flap on the other end act like valves close all back up thenthe screw in the bottom of the carb should be screwed all the way in then un screw 2 1/2 turns and it should be set to about the right flow adjust in or out if it isnt right hopes this helps if you need more help on this leave feed back love to help

I have the 5kw Honda and have no problem, but I have never tried to run 5,000 watts either. It is reaching max rpms? Air filter clean? Good fuel? Oil? Have you run it much, or does it sit? How do you measure the wattage? Add up a bunch of things like, skil saw, pump, fridge, etc? Let's see, skill saw at 13 amps x 120 volts =1560 watts. Fridge probably idles at 7amps, starter windings use 10 or so amps, tv, 500 watts, computer, I would not run anything electronic with a genny, unless I had a spike protector on it. Check it out, hope this helps.

I would say it can run fine without a battery. Make sure the battery cable terminals are taped up to prevent shorting out and damaging at minimum the charging circuit.

it will run fine without it. it just wont save power after running.