20 Most Recent Yardworks Tow Behind Broadcast Spreader - Page 3 Questions & Answers

I found a website called Toolsource.com that sells the EVAPro Smoke Machine Evaporative System Tester 2000E . The product is OEM approved for testing vehicle's evaporative emissions (EVAP) system and comes with all accessories included. It also has a patented UltraTraceUVT technology that deposits a fluorescent dye at the exact location of the leaks. The dimensions of the product are 15" x 8" x 15" and it weighs 25 lbs. The product is priced at $1,795.00. EVAPro Smoke Machine Evaporative System Tester 2000E (toolsource.com) https://www.canbuilt.com/catalogue_pdf/EVP-LD601.pdf

Check out the link and videos https://www.google.com/search?q=Yardstar+Edger%2C+how+to+replace+the+cord ..

Old question, but maybe this will help others: Here is the answer for all Cox Stockman machines fitted with a single large bolt through clutch cone. Below it you'll find a VERY GOOD REASON WHY YOU SHOULD NOT DO IT!!! 1. Disconnect the negative (-) lead from the battery. 2. Loosen the four bolts that secure the engine and slide engine backwards. 3. Remove the 'R Clip' on the link rod at the front of the clutch carrier, then disconnect the link rod. 4. Loosen all four grub screws on the drive plates and slide them as far out as you can. 5. Raise the rear of the machine and secure with axle stands or some other method that will leave you with a SAFE WORKPLACE! 6. Remove the 9/16" locknut on the clutch pivot bolt (under the rear of the machine), then unscrew the pivot bolt. Do not try to drive it out with a punch, as it is screwed into the adjusting plate. 7. When bolt is removed, slide the rear of the carrier across to one side and the front of the carrier to the other side ( to clear the bracket at the front of the carrier) and work the whole assembly forward enough to clear the rear chassis rail. Then drop it down and remove the assembly from the machine. To replace the cone, lock the large bolt head into a vice, then use a 2 or three pronged lock bar to unscrew the pulley from the bottom of the bolt. Then, fit a new cone onto the bolt and reverse teh entire process. Now, here's why you should NOT DO THIS AT HOME!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! If you don't read this part, I absolutely guarantee that it will end up costing you far more money than if you'd sent the machine to a Cox Service agent ( I am one). About the only thing on any Cox machine that requires specialist knowledge and tooling to correctly repair, is the drive cone clutch system. Removing and replacing the drive cone itself is the easiest part of the process and I have seen it done by plenty of people. I've also spent plenty of time then fitting another new cone to their machine, because the one they put on is now stuffed. The drive cone is just one part of an assembly and if the entire job is not done correctly the FIRST TIME, the new cone can be destroyed in a very short time. And the only way to do the entire job correctly is to have the special tools and knowledge. No if's, no but's and no maybe's!

I'm sorry to hear about the issue with your Shibaura P17F hydraulic pump. When facing problems with the hydraulic system, it's crucial to systematically troubleshoot potential causes. Start by checking the hydraulic fluid levels to ensure they are at the recommended level. Inspect for any visible leaks around the pump, hoses, or connections, as leaks can lead to a loss of pressure. Additionally, examine the hydraulic filters for any signs of blockage or contamination, and replace them if necessary. Verify the condition of the hydraulic hoses for damage or kinks, and bleed any air from the system that might be affecting pump performance. Testing the hydraulic pump's output pressure with a gauge can help identify if the pump itself is malfunctioning. Refer to the equipment's manual for specific guidelines and, if needed, consider consulting a professional technician for a more in-depth inspection and repair.

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All questions need full 'make model (what it is)' first 3 words. Or we are working blind and making educated guesses. Carburetors don't need 'timing', they are simply a device for mixing fuel and air into aerosol form. Diaphragm pump can be stripped, serviced, diaphragms changed or the whole pump replaced. ..

The manufacturer is usually very helpfull; https://www.einhell.co.uk/services/spare-parts-and-manuals/

Question edited for clarity and toss in some CAPS. In the link https://www.google.com/search?q=2010+Cub+Cadet+LTX1040+Riding+Lawn+Mower+wiring+diagram ..

Question edited for full 'make model (what it is)'. Inlet manifold air leaks is the usual cause. Other ideas here. https://www.google.com/search?q=powerhorse+2300i+engine+surges+with+no+load ..

Go back to where you bought it and ask if there is something that they will do for you. It does not hurt to ask.

Parts suppliers in the link. https://www.google.com/search?q=yardworks+snow+blower+model+31AE6MKP515 ..

Batteries located inside, accessible from behind unit. ie under round cover, just unscrew...

Troubleshooting a lawnmower that won't start. They only need 3 things to run; Fuel Compression A Spark at the right time. You have one thing missing. https://www.google.com/search?q=Morrison+Vinaro+350ST+no+start The is a New Zealand mower and one that we don't know here in North America. ..

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wwUiE98h6WQ Watch this video.

Check to see if the deck belt is ok and that the linkage is allowing it to engage.

Sorry but don't know exactly what you are refering to. Please add make and model. Thank you.

Thanks

I would check the petrol cap is sealing properly and none of the fuel lines are split/misplaced.

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