20 Most Recent Hobart 24 in. LXIH-3 Built-in Dishwasher - Page 5 Questions & Answers

Hi

To correct this make sure the water inlet hose is firmly connected and is not kinked or blocked. Clean the inlet hose and inlet filter (inlet screen). If this doesn't resolve the issue then check the water inlet assembly for continuity and also the float switch assembly.

Hope this helps... Please post back if you need more information.
Daniel

Ok you say, "and when we activate dishwasher it leaks" (sic) I presume you mean the dispenser leaks? or the pump? or the actual dishwasher?
if you mean the actual dishwasher is leaking, then maybe the door seal, or seal around where tubes enter? if this from is where it is leaking? has been damaged?
Anyway to assist you please find manuals below these will show you what to do.
https://my.hobartcorp.com/resourcecenter/.../F-8193.pdf -

www.webstaurantstore.com/PDF/Hobart%20LXiH.pdf - United States -
above are manuals to download.-

Hi,
Here is a tip that I wrote that will help you with your dishwasher not drainingproblem...

Dishwasher Problems - Waterwill not drain out

heatman101

Found this from another solution about the P1 error. Might be helpful:

This is a bad sump temperature probe. The unit will function, but will not heat nor display the wash water temperature.

This is a very easy fix. Order Hobart part number 328994 from your nearest Hobart parts dept.

Turn off and drain the unit. Kill the power to the unit at the circuit breaker. Remove the lower front cover. Locate the screw-in temperature probe at the front of the sump. Unplug the sensor from the wiring harness, remove with a 7/16" open end wrench. Screw in the new probe, using teflon tape of the threads, snuggly. It does not need to be super tight. Plug it into the harness, reinstall the front cover, turn the breaker back on, and start up the unit.

TURN THE BREAKER OFF AS EVEN WITH THE UNIT "OFF" THERE WILL BE 120 VOLTS PRESENT AT THE SUMP HEATER (yellow wires) DUE TO ONLY ONE LEG OF POWER BEING SWITCHED OFF!

kc

P1 means a temperature probe reading is out of range, I believe it refers to the temp. probe in the sump inside the dishwasher. There are also P2 and P3 which refer to the booster tank temp. probe and the rinse water temp. probe. Remove the lower front panel and make sure the connector going to the sump temp. probe (two small black wires) is connected well and the wires look OK. Replace the temp. probe and P1 should go away.

"DR" followed by "OP" means "Door Open". If this is displayed when the door is closed, you most likely need to replace the magnetic door switch. Open the door and remove two phillips head screws which are installed vertically, holding the control panel drawer closed. Then open the control panel drawer (sometimes it's kind of stuck,but not usually). The magnetic door switch (i.e. reed switch) is located on the right side of the drawer, held down by a small metal bracket. Of course it's possible your problem could be the magnet in the door itself, but most likely the door switch is the problem.

Are you having problems with the heat? You may have a bad heating element.

PD is not an error code. It shows that when it draining water out shortly after power-up and when shutting down. If it seems to be showing "PD" longer than usual, it means the dishwasher's control circuitry believes there is still water in the tank, due to a faulty water level probe, most like the one under the lift-out screen. It has a plastic body with a metal probe coming out the center.

There is also a dual probe at the rear of the machine, but I believe the dishwasher uses the front probe to determine when to stop draining the machine during "PD" - most likely meaning "Power Drain" or "Power Draining".

If you are not seeing any E- codes (E1, E2, E3, etc.) then these water level probes are likely just fine and the "PD" is appearing normally, as it should during draining conditions.

if using gordon food services have them get the johnson diversey rep come and service.It shouldnt be a charge due to you buying their products.
As for the build up it could be hard water or not the right product for your water conditions.

Press Ok, Accept or replay

I have a solution for this

Bruce

How long does it stay in the wash cycle? Indefinitely? Does the display continuously show "WASH"?. If it stays in the wash cycle indefinitely (i.e. continuously shows "WASH" for significantly beyond approx. 3 minutes), it's probably a control board malfunction. If it continues to wash after the "WASH" indicator goes out, it could be a shorted wash motor relay on the relay board or a fauly control board.

If the internal rinse water booster heater doesn't reach it's programmed setpoint temperature in time, the dishwasher will run an extended wash cycle to give the booster heater more time to finish heating the rinse water. If this is what's happening, the wash cycle would last approximately 3 minutes, then it would rinse regardless of whether the booster heater has finished heating or not.

The booster temperature thermistor may be bad, giving a false booster temperature reading, causing an extended wash cycle as described above. The booster heater elements or contactor may be bad, preventing the booster heater from heating and reaching proper temperature, also causing the same extended wash cycle to give the booster more time to heat.

That code is for the booster . probably the thermistor .. if there is a hobart service center in your area, you could get one there and instructions on how to replace.

Please vote!

Hello storre.... Reduce the amount from your current level to one level teaspoon per load. Also check with the staff who actually load the dishwasher and load the detergent. I often find that folks do not measure as they are instructed and instead "eyeball" the amount. Using too much destroys the platters and the flatware. Is also greatly increases the cost. Joe

Thanks for choosing Fixya!

Probably a bad booster tank termperature probe (thermistor). This is threaded into the booster heater and has two small black wires entering it.

The following procedure will result in a some water coming out of the booster heater. Allow the booster heater to completely cool, and shut off the circuit breaker for the dishwasher before proceding.

Prepare a new temp. probe with teflon tape, then unscrew the old probe from the booster heater and quickly install the new probe. Assuming the heater is cooled, you can hold your finger over the hole vacated by the old probe to prevent excessive water from pouring out of the booster heater.

Sounds like you're referring to the vacuum breaker. It's very easy and cheap to rebuild, if it'll come apart - sometimes they're very difficult to unscrew the top and the whole vacuum breaker must be replaced.

Obtain a rebuild kit for the vacuum breaker from Hobart (about $5). Remove the screw from the top of the vacuum breaker and take off the chrome cap. Use a cresent wrench or channel lock pliers to remove the now accessible upper section of the vacuum breaker. Clean all scale from the brass piece you removed, particularly from the center pin and the surface at the bottom of the removed brass piece, where the threads start. This surface is the surface where the moving float's rubber seal will come up to and form a watertight seal. If you're unsure what surface I'm referring to, place the white plastic float onto the removed brass piece and take note of there the orange seal of the float contacts the brass - this is what must be clean, straight and flat to make a good seal with the new float. The center pin must be clean so that the float easily moves up and down on the pin without binding. Also clean all scale from inside the body of the vacuum breaker, although not as critical as long as the float will move freely inside the body of the vacuum breaker. Once it is cleaned, reassemble and you're done.

P.S. it's possible you may be able to stop the leak simply by disassembling and cleaning the scale as described above, but considering the cost of the rebuild kit, you should replace the float from the rebuild kit as the float's seal shrinks over time, which may in fact be your problem instead of scale deposits, or both.

P3 refers to one of the dishwasher's three temperature sensors: sump temperature, booster heater temperature, or rinse water temperature. The dishwashers control circuitry has determined one of them is open or shorted, or at least out of range.

Judging from the symptom you mentioned, that you see rapid temperature reading changes before it finishes filling, I'd say it's probably the sump probe (because that's the temperature displayed during the fill cycle), located under the large removeable screen inside the dishwasher.

To test or replace, remove the small access panel at the lower front of the dishwasher (2 screws).
After the dishwasher has reached a good normal operating temperature, unplug the sump probe connector (white plastic connector with two small black wires going to it and coming from the area mentioned above where the temp. probe is. Using a multimeter, test the resistance of the probe. If the water in the dishwasher is hot (150 deg. F or more), you should read somewhere in the area of 5,000 to 10,000 ohms. If your measurement varies significantly from this range, replace the probe- most likely you'll see a reading near zero ohms or a very high reading, possibly an open-circuit probe (infinite resistance i.e. "OL" indicated on most multimeters).

It's possible I'm wrong about which temp. probe P3 refers to. There is also a temp. probe on the booster heater and one on the rinse piping on the rear of the dishwasher. Test procedure is the same for all of them, although the probe on the rinse piping is not constantly subjected to hot water so testing at room temperature would result in higher resistance value (lower temperature means higher resistance for these temperature probes).

try replacing the "squeeze tube" inside the dispensing unit. Over time the tube flattens out. If the tube is flattened no chemical will be drawn from your jug.

Disconnect inlet and outlet hoses on rinse aid dispensing unit.
Remove 4 screws and pull off outer face of dispensing unit. You can watch the dispenser operate with the face off if you wish, as long as the hose doesn't fall out (which it won't).
Remove squeeze tube and install new tube.
Reassemble inlet and outlet hoses (be sure to not mix up which tube/hose goes on top and which on bottom).

Also possible that the hose from the chemical jug to the dispensing unit has a hole/crack or otherwise. If the hose has a leak it'll lose suction and draw air in from the leak and not pull chemical.

take out the rinse arms and inspect them closely to make sure where they are seamed together and see if they are split or cracked