20 Most Recent Kenmore 73952 Gas Dryer - Page 2 Questions & Answers

The Thermal Fuse is located on the air blower housing. Its a small white plastic component with two wire leads.

The Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) is located on the outside of the heater box on the end opposite the heating element terminals.

The reason I mention both these components is because some people confuse the two and use the words interchangeably. There is a difference between the two components and what they do.

DOUBLE CHECK YOUR SYMPTOMS:

If your dryer does not run at all, check your Thermal Fuse.

If your dryer runs, but does not heat you need to check the Thermal Cut-Out.

If you have any questions, please post back and let me know what symptoms you are having. Please include your complete model number (located on a nameplate around the door opening) so that I can determine how your dryer is configured. I hope this is helpful to you.

In order for us to provide you accurate information and supply you with the correct manufactures part numbers , we will need the complete model number, serial number and batch or series numbers (if applicable) found on a business card size metal/foil plate. If you are having difficulty locating this identification label, follow this link which will take you to our Website where we have pictures of common locations where your model number ID label can be found. Here is the link: http://www.affordableappliance.com/Tips/modelnumbers.htm Once you have the updated information, please reply to this email. Eric Campion

I had possibly a similar problem with a Kenmore 90 electric dryer. Sometimes pushing the start button would just make a buzzing sound, but the drum would not turn. I ended up replacing the motor and so far it seems to start up smoother and quicker. In the process of taking it apart, there was a surprising amount of lint piled up in front of the blower intake. This is after the lint screen and not really possible to get to without taking off the lower front panel and then removing the duct to the blower. Perhaps it was dragging on the blower and causing the motor to overheat. Worth looking at first, perhaps.

if the flame is lighting you have lint blocking the air flow either in the dryer or in the vent line,also if you have a flame for the first 10 to 20 minutes and then the flame doesn't light you have bad gas coils located on top of the gas valve,when the coils are bad they can work for the first 10 to 20 minutes until the coils get hot and then they fail and you'll see the ignitor glowing orange but no flame,bad gas coils.then when the coils cool down they can work again.hope this helps.you can try removing the vent line from the back of the dryer and see if the flame stays on,if lint is blocking the air from blowing out the flame won't stay lit long enough to dry the clothes.

if the flame is lighting but the clothes don't dry you have a blocked vent line or lint blocked up in the dryer and needs to be cleaned out.

This is commonly a thermal switch. The switch is saying to the control that there is too much heat in the lint filter plenum so don't start to avoid a fire. It's located in the plenum somewhere and costs only a few bucks to replace. Call Sears with your model number. Of course, if you have the dryer apart you might as well clean it good and check the drive belts for looseness or cracking. Good Luck. -

Centrifugal start switch, built into motor, may not be releasing when motor comes up to speed. A little light oil on sliding part of switch might help.

Check this out: If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

If the hum is loud I would suspect something is jammed and the motor is stopped leading to a heavy current running through the motor. After 5 or 10 minutes I would anticipate the circuit breaker would trip or the motor would burn up. If the humming suddenly stops then a thermal overload switch might be activating and when it cools down normal operation resumes. This is my only insight.

Normally a capacitor start motor will have the capacitor mounted on the motor in a rounded enclosure while a regular motor will have an uninturrupted round housing.

See if you can move the drum up and down with your hand by pressing up on the inside of it. Could be a bad bearing.

Try this and let me know what happens.
TIP OF THE DAY
To reduce the suction draft and drying time your drier and save some cash, remove the lint catcher and take it to the sink. Run water into it, if there is excessive pooling of the water (water not running straight through) then fabric softener is fouling the lint screen. Use a small brush and dish detergent to clean it and then shake off all the water and dry the screen. Remember this tip on future driers and you will make the dryer blower motor last much longer.

:?) DRRXR

It sounds like you need a start switch located on the motor To replace this you will need to get the 2 screws off where the harness plugs into the motor MAKE SURE THE POWER IS OFF :) Ask you locat parts placeGood luck:)

Unplug the dryer. Open the control console.Mark and remove the wires from the start switch.
Using a volt meter set for continuity,touch meter leads to R1 and R2 while pushing the switch. No reading is a bad switch.
Touch meter leads to R2 and CT1. No reading is a bad switch.
If the switch checks out good the start windings in the motor are bad.