Top 20 Kenmore 30 in. 42701 / 42702 / 42709 Electric Cooktop Questions & Answers

Make sure the clock is not set to "auto" function or on "timer" mode. The oven will not start until the correct time has come up. If the clock is not working , this is likely to be the problem. See if there is a manual operation control or switch. You may have to get a new clock or arrange for the clock to be bypassed so the oven can work without it. Most electronic clocks can stop an oven from working if they fail.

The clock runs on 110 volts and the oven at 220 volts. If the cook top is on, the issue is in the stove. Best left to a qualified technician. If the cooktop is also not functioning, check the breaker.

need details

From my experience, most cooktop manufacturers give cutout dimensions that almost always need modifications to get the screws or nuts on the stove to fit the cutout. Have your granite fabricator come enlarge the opening by grinding specifically where there is interference. They should be able to tent off your granite and use a vacuum to minimize dust.
Feel free to contact me with any questions. Brandon Wiese - [email protected] - http://.www.StoneRepairman.com

Check below steps:

(1) Is there any problem with the breaker? if no go to step 2.
(2) Check with voltmeter if the current is coming to the knob of the burner? if yes go to step 3.
(3) Check if the current is coming from the knob to the burner.

YOU HAVE A PROBLEM WITH THE SWITCH. CHECK WITH SEARS TO HAVE THE PART NUMBER..

We have a Sear's Repair Center here, and I'm thinking that if you go there and explain your problem, they may be able to bring up some assembly diagrams (which is what you need), and perhaps be able to advise you on the wiring hookup. Electrical diagrams can help, but are often too general, not allowing one to have to refer to the assembly diagrams.
That's your best bet- they're the guys that fix these machines, and they will be able to help, with a little luck.
Hope this helps, and good luck.

This is almost always caused by the switch being faulty. If you can access the control panel (with the appliance unplugged) you can swap the possibly bad switch with another and see if the burner works properly. If so you will need to replace that faulty switch.

Cheers

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The hot surface light is turned on by an auxiliary switch across the plate. Sometimes the switch gets stuck in the closed position. It is also possible that the plate is not turning off. Feel the plate and check if it is at all warm. If not, then the auxiliary switch is stuck closed. To resolve the issue replace the limiter which is the rod you can see across the plate. Sometimes you can only get the complete plate with limiter which is a bit pricey.

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You need to check the switches. If no problems with the switches it is in the circuit for the indicator light. This is easy to check and the parts are inexpensive. There is a video at www.appliancehelponline.com/servicemanual.html that will walk you thru performing these checks.

how do i change the burners on eletric cooktops

Here is some wisdom for understanding F1 fault codes.

In some models, there are subcodes that make diagnosis even easier.

Here's a simple explanation of what's going on and how to troubleshoot:

The F1 code indicates that:


a. The electronic range control (ERC) is sensing heat in the oven when in a time-of-day (i.e., not cooking) mode.

b. The ERC is receiving information to run multiple heat functions simultaneously.


Although different components (depending upon the model) could generate the code, simple and straightforward testing using your ohm meter is all you gotta do to test for it.

1. Check the oven temperature sensor. The oven sensor has to be within spec or it will cause the F1 code.
As an example of being out-of-spec, the ERC will generate an F1 fault code when the sensor shows 1650 ohms during a time-of-day mode.
This is equivalent to 350°F in the oven.
The resistance isn't high enough to generate an F2 code (runaway temp) or an F3 or F4 code (shorted/open sensor circuit).
The ERC monitors the sensor circuit after a heat cycle and expects the resistance to drop back to 1050-1100 ohms.
The fault code is generated when this doesn't happen. Checking the sensor circuit means also checking the harness,
harness connections and the sensor itself.

2. If the oven sensor circuit checks okay, then turn your inquisitive eyeballs to the touchpad.
If the range has a separate touchpad/keyboard, the keypad may have moisture that is shorting several circuits simultaneously.
If the F1 code is given immediately (instead of during or after a heat cycle),
remove the ribbon connector from the touchpad to the ERC after clearing the F1 code. If the F1 code does not return in five minutes,
then cast a suspicious gaze upon the touchpad/keyboard. Shorts may be caused by using an ammonia-based glass cleaner.
The touchpad surface will absorb ammonia-based cleaners that are sprayed directly on the glass surface. When heat is applied,
the surface material can break down causing shorts.
If you're gonna use ammonia-based cleaners on your control panel, then you should spray it on the rag and then wipe the touchpanel
-don't spray directly onto the surface of the touchpad.

3. On Amana ranges with a rotary temperature dial, be sure that the knob is in the OFF position when performing tests.

4. If these tests all check good, then replace the ERC.


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it could be a switch, element or a short somewhere else

Ok if the wire arced on something then the breaker either half tripped and is not sending the correct power or something is shorted the control maybe. Go to the breaker box and flip the breaker on and off then try!! or Many times a surface burner element can burn out. Look for obvious signs such as breaks or bubbles on the surface, loose or corroded wire connections, and test the elements for continuity. Sometimes the element receptacle or the element ends can get burned out or loose, causing a poor connection or no connection. If this is happening, you should turn the power supply off, and remove the element to inspect the plugs and receptacle. If you see burn marks or corrosion, it's time to replace the bad part. You can also check the terminal ends by lifting them out and looking to see if they got bent and have lost connection. Straighten the ends and re-seat the element if it had bent ends.
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There are a series of holes in the burner leading down from the main flame area to the pilot tube, ensure the holes are not plugged/restricted.

hi my name is mark, a service tech needs to check the voltage to the cook top. you will probably find improper voltage. check data plate for proper voltage should be 208v or 230v depending onwhere you live.

4 to 5 inches

hot surface light is turned on by a auxiliary switch across the plate. it is possible that the switch has stuck in the closed position. it is also possible that the plate is not turning off. feel the plate and check if it is at all warm. if not, then the auxialuary switch is stuck closed. not dangerous. to fix means replacing the limiter which is the rod you can see across the plate. sometimes you can only get the complete plate with limiter which is a bit pricey