20 Most Recent Shimano 24 Speed Road Racing Bike Bicycle Modell Rs888 Questions & Answers

A Bike Crank Extractor/Bottom bracket removal tool for Shimano like this (China):- http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Bicycle-Bike-Crank-Extractor-Bottom-Bracket-Removal-Tool-Set-For-Shimano-/390891788384?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5b02f75860

It's likely that you have some air or debris in your brake line. Bleeding hydraulic brakes can be done at home, but frankly considering the potential consequences if your brake fail, this something best left to your local bike shop mechanic.

The most probable explanation is that your front derailluer (FD) cable is too tight. You can loosen it one of two ways. First, look to see if the cable passes through any adjuster barrels. These are typically found on the shifter where the cable exits, or else on the downtube near the junction with the headtube. If you find one, turn it clockwise to release tension from the cable. Alternate between checking the shifting (large to middle chainring) and adjusting a quarter turn at a time. If you don't have any adjuster barrels to work with, or if the ones you have are already screwed in all the way, undo the cable anchor bolt on the FD, let a little bit of slack through, and re-tighten it. If you find that the derailler will shift down after you do this, but won't readily shift back up, then you've loosened the cable too much and you need to add more tension either by turning the adjuster barrels counter-clockwise or by pulling the cable taught through the anchor bolt.

If you can't seem to strike a happy balance between upshifting and downshiting, or if you are having trouble shifting in both directions, check to make sure that the FD is positioned correctly. Shift to the middle chainring so you can get a good look at the outer plate of the FD cage relative to the large chainring. Looking from above, the outer plate should be parallel to the large chainring, or else angled inward very, very slightly towards the rear. Looking from the right side of the bike, you should be able to see a 2mm gap between the top of the teeth of the large chainring and the bottom of the plate of the FD.

If the FD is positioned properly, and you can't seem to fix the problem by adjusting the cable tension, check to make sure that the cable is running freely through the housing. To do this, undo the cable anchor bolt and try pulling the cable back and forth through the housing as well as running the housing up and down the length of the cable. The interface between the cable and the housing should be nearly frictionless. While you do this, make sure that the chewed-up part of the cable where the anchor bolt pinches doesn't enter the housing, or else you won't be able to get a good feel. If the cable has trouble moving freely through the housing, pull it out of the housing and wipe it off--if it is kinked or if it rusty in the sections that run within the housing, replace it. If the cable is ok, squirt some oil in the housing, put the cable back in, and test again to see if the cable runs smoothly. If it still doesn't, replace the housing.

Web search "shift through the gears" "derailleur adjustment", "how to..." just about anything.

http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help

You will need to raise the back wheel to perform these adjustments... so that you can activate the pedals and oberve closely the functioning, as you adjust....

On the tube mounting: The derailleur needs to just clear the teeth of the front chain wheels, as it moves from one to the other. It needs to be square with the chain wheels.

The other adjustments are limiting in nature. You need the derailleur to not move the chain off of the outside of either front chain wheel. as you get closer, move the rear derailleur to extremes and then shift the front derailleur, slow and fast..... Limit is correct when you can move the derailleur so as to not ride on the chain, but not throw the chain off the wheels.

Sometimes, guys turn the front derailleur, slightly so that the last portion of the derailleur body gives the chain a little boost to the bigger gear...This is just a very small amount. Sometimes it just works better that way.

It will entail taking the chain apart again (known as "breaking" the chain).
The chain feeds UNDER the lower cog on the derailleur, BETWEEN the 2 cogs, and OVER the top one... then BEHIND the gear cluster and back OVER it. Run the other end AROUND the front chainwheels, through the front derailleur and re-connect. You may find it helpful to lay the bike on its side (sprockets up) and have someone hold rear derailleur to keep tension off the chain.
Good luck to you.

You would have to change your right lever.Its more than likely your right lever clicks 8 times to accommodate your 8 speed rear cluster.Oh.. and your rear derailier might have to be upgraded too.You might get away with the rear derailier because a 9 speed rear cluster sprockets will be closer together.This means you also have to change your chain to a narrower chain.If it were me,I wouldnt do it.It could cost you big dollars for one extra sprocket.But thats your choise .Cheers

You don't mention which shifter(s) malfunction or if you're even pedaling the bike while shifting (I make NO assumptions).

If you operate the inner shift lever (NOT the brake lever) on each side through several clicks that should RELAX any tension in the shifter cables. Then if you pick the bike up and pedal it forward a couple of turns the front shifter should drop the chain the the lowest chainring and the rear derailleur should shift out the the smallest cog.

With the bike suspended (say, hanging from a low tree branch by the tip of the seat) you should be able to turn the cranks and manually pull sideways on either exposed shifter cable where it runs down along the downtube then release it.

This should cycle each respective derailleur through its entire range. If the cables don't travel sufficiently in this manner, the shifters will never make them do it either.

Perhaps you could CALL the Bike Shop and they would talk you through a quick operational check.

Sounds like your chain is too loose. I would tighten it up till it no longer has this skipping problem. Also check to make sure the chain has no damage.

Here is a link to help:http://sheldonbrown.com/gears/ alsohttp://www.sheldonbrown.com/gain.html Let me know if this helps.

Riding a bike can lead to impotence from the seat pressing on the base of your *****. So get off the bike and go in the woods. :)

This bike must be at least a decade old, if I am not mistaken. As it is any MTB more than 8 yrs old will suffer wearing away of metals, especially its gears,i.e.24 Right?Now chain adjustment is a very temporary or a ham job. It seems that you yourself have enough experience regd mtb's, so the only recommendation that I can think of is have you ever consider upgrading to 27 gear assembly which at least is compatible and is pretty smooth. In any case if the existing 24. Its also equally strong.The setting is such that its easy changing gears. On the whole a bit on the heavy side though.......... sodeep

shifting gears

grab lever with pliers next time not quite so tight

Ffgggg

I finished changing the cable of Shimano Deore XT SL-M740. Unfortunately it did not have the plastic screw hiding the chunk of lead at the end of the cable. I mean that there is no hole from which the cable can be pulled out. Therefore, I removed the front panel where you see "Simano Deore", but this panel only removed the shift position indicator and the internal mechanism was covered by another metal sheet. To change the cable I had to remove the small cover between the barrel adjuster and the lever. The cover is fastened by two very small screws. An encouraging sign was that one of these screws was missing. That indicated that a previous owner had removed the cover once. The cable end was attached to a component exactly like a brake cable is attached to a brake lever. This component pulls the cable around the shifter. The sift cable is not attached to the shift lever. The sift lever rotates the said component. The barrel adjuster had a slot to put the cable inside. Therefore, attaching the cable to the above component was easy. When the cover was installed, I attached the small screw to the end of a driver with silicon paste. Someone suggested to use grease, but grease is messy.

https://www.google.com will give search results for online sales. Example: https://www.google.com/search?q=shimano+st-m290+shifter&source=lnms&tbm=shop&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwj_gsfx-qbqAhWCl3IEHeFNC3MQ_AUoAXoECA0QAw&biw=1440&bih=791&dpr=1.5 Ebay, and Alibaba sell shifters. Example: https://guide.alibaba.com/shopping-guides/shimano-acera-x-st-m290.html

I had a look at the Mongoose website. They have manual for download. https://int.mongoose.com/pages/product-manuals Enter the model of your bike, or look for a picture of it. Follow the instructions.... REgards Geoff