20 Most Recent Kenmore 63663 Microwave Oven Questions & Answers

In most cases, that means a bad door switch or loose door switch mount.

But if you'll post your brand and full model number we can probably narrow it down further.

If you or a friend decide to look into it, we have critical safety information, info on door switch diagnosis and replacement, and
disassembly information at our site, and our link is at our listing here on FixYa: http://tinyurl.com/yzjozk

We're happy to help and we appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

Hi,
Here is a tip that will help you to figure out what is wrong with yourMicrowave Oven....

Basic Microwave Oven TroubleshootingTips

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Remove the cover ... you will find the fuse on the floor of the device near the power cord entry port.

No heat but otherwise normal operationA shorted HV diode, magnetron, or certain parts of the HV wiring would probably result in a loud hum from the HV transformer but will likely not blow the main fuse. (However, the HV fuse - not present on most domestic ovens - might blow.)
If the main power fuse is located in the primary of the high voltage transformer rather then at the line input, the clock and touchpad will work but the fuse will blow upon initiating a cook cycle. Or, if the fuse has already blown there will simply be no heating action once the cook cycle is started. There are other variations depending on whether the cooling fan, oven light, and so forth are located down stream of the fuse.

Some models may have a separate high voltage fuse. If this is blown, there will be no heating but no other symptoms. However, high voltage fuses are somewhat rare on domestic ovens.

A number of failures can result in the fuse NOT blowing but still no heat:

• Bad connections - these may be almost anywhere in the microwave generator or the primary circuit of the HV transformer. A common location is at the crimp connections to the magnetron filament as they are high current and can overheat and result in no or intermittent contact. See the section: See the section: Testing the magnetron.
  
• Open thermal protector - usually located on magnetron case. Test for continuity. It should read as a dead short - near zero ohms. See the section: Testing thermal protectors and thermal fuses.
  
• Open thermal fuse - some ovens have one of these in the primary circuit. It may be in either connection to the HV transformer or elsewhere. Test for continuity. It should read as a dead short - near zero ohms.
  
• Open HV capacitor - see the section: Testing the high voltage capacitor. A shorted HV capacitor would likely immediately blow the fuse.
  
• Open HV diode - see the section: Testing the high voltage diode.
  
• Open magnetron filament - This failure may also be due to loose, burnt, or deteriorated press (Fast-on) lugs for the filament connections and not an actual magnetron problem. See the section: Testing the magnetron.
  
• Open winding in HV transformer. See the section: Testing the high voltage transformer.
  
• Defective HV relay. A few models use a relay in the actual high voltage circuitry (rather than the primary) to regulate cooking power. This may have dirty or burnt contacts, a defective coil, or bad connections
  
• Shorted HV diode - see the section: Testing the high voltage diode.
  
• Short or other fault in the magnetron - see the section: Testing the magnetron.
  
• Short in certain portions of the HV wiring. See the section: Testing and repairing the wiring and connections.

Depending on design, a number of other component failures could result in no heat as well including a defective relay or triac, interlock switch(s), and controller.

If you are interested in doing it yourself the following link will help : Microwave Repair Manual

(**All the above references to tests are found here)

it is possible that the magnetron is faulty as there is a load indication to the board. it can also be the failure of the capacitor, the board or a faulty thermal switch.
check the Thermal cut off switch, check the capacitor or disconnect the magnetron to confirm if the fault changes.If so you have identified the fault.

The safety switch is not closing properly. It should be replaced by a qualified service center.

The F-9 error code indicates a defective control board, inverter or line voltage too high.

Repair or Replace them.


Thanks.

F9 indicates a problem with the door latch.  There is a safety switch that will not allow the microwave to operate if it detects the door is not closed properly.  Even though physically it may seem the door is shut, the safety switch is not relaying the message to the onboard computer.  You need another door latch switch.

F9 is almost always an error related to a bad door switch or door switch mount or misaligned door hinges.

Even though a door switch clicks, it may still be bad inside. Its continuity must be checked.

Door switchor mount trouble can be caused by slamming the door or by opening thedoor while it's cooking without hitting the Stop pad first.

There areplastic mounts inside the microwave which hold the door switches andonto which the door latches lock when you close the door.

The screws on these mounts may be loose. If they get too loose, the switches will not be activated properly.

Sometimes it'sa broken tab on the switch holder, allowing the switch to rotate justout of position. This tab can be hard to see, since it is under thebottom edge of the switch.

One test that sometimes helps is togently lift up (and/or push down) on the door or handle as you try tostart it. If it works or tries to work, then it's a door switch mount ordoor alignment issue.

If you or someone you know decide to lookinto it, we have critical information on safety, disassembly and doorswitches at our site, and our link is at our listing here on FixYa:.

You can find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number here.

Theremay also be a "mini-manual" hidden inside the unit behind the controlpanel or hidden on the left side behind the grille, which is very helpful when troubleshooting & testing.

If you think the problem is on the control panel, we repair these nationwide by mail for $39.95 postpaid in most cases.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

If is a newer unit, it may have a type of power supply that uses a diode or diode bridge located pretty close to the input.
I suspect this is shorted.

This is not a job you should undertake since the part may be kind of tough to find if easy to replace.
If you want to keep the unit, look for a repair shop in your area; they might even have the part in stock.
I did . . .

Since it's under warranty, they will replace or repair it at their choice, and if they replace it, it will be the same model or a "like model".

I'd ask them about it.

We're happy to help and we appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

It turns itself on

1. Interlock switch If your microwave is turning itself on, the first thing to check is the interlock switch. This is usually the first thing to malfunction that could cause this issue. If the interlock switch is bad then it will need to be replaced.
2. Main control board If your microwave is turning itself on and the interlock switch is still working, the probable cause is the main control board. If the control board is defective it will need to be replaced.

But before throwing parts at it give these folks a call... https://www.repairclinic.com/RepairHelp/How-To-Fix-A-Microwave/74-6-878350-/New/Kenmore-Microwave-Turns-On-By-Itself-721-85033010 Best to you

It looks like it is too old. Nothing in Kenmore or Viking. https://www.google.com/search?q=Kenmore+Viking+851.8250800+manual ..

You've found the proper location if you're seeking for the fuse for your Kenmore microwave. The fuse is often found in the microwave's or behind the control panel. You must take off the microwave's exterior cover in order to reach it. After you've identified the fuse, you may see if it has blown. If so, you'll have to swap it out for a new one. It might be preferable to seek professional advice if you are unsure on how to proceed.

If you are getting an F-5 error code on your Kenmore hood combination, it typically indicates a problem with the temperature sensor. This error code may occur when you are trying to use the convection feature, as you have described.

To troubleshoot this issue, try the following steps:

Turn off the power to the unit and unplug it from the electrical outlet.

Wait a few minutes, then plug the unit back in and turn on the power.

Try using the convection feature again and see if the error code reappears.

If the error code persists, you may need to replace the temperature sensor. You can consult the user manual for your Kenmore hood combination or contact Kenmore customer service for assistance with this.

If the unit is still under warranty, it's recommended to contact Kenmore customer service for repair or replacement options.

These are all the top suppliers, but that model number is not showing. If the display has gone dim, you can get an electronics technician to replace the capacitor that runs the display. https://www.google.com/search?q=Kenmore+Microwave+318279601B+parts ..