20 Most Recent KitchenAid KEYS700LQ Electric Dryer Questions & Answers

First you have to determine whether you element is in the front or the back of the machine this is done easiest by looking at the front of the machine and seeingif its one complete piece or two. If its one, the element is in the back, if two its in the front. We'll start if its in the back first. Tools you'll need is: 1/4 nut driver or drill with 1/4 adapter and a multimeter with ability to check continuity. With the machine unplugged, remove the back cover of the dryer. Once done, the heating element will be located on the right hand side with two fuses on the housing of the element. Test the element and each fuse seperatly by removing the wires and checking for continuity on each component. All parts should show continuity, so if one doesn't its bad and needs to be replaced. Now if the element is the front everything is the same with the exception of you have to remove the lower portion, usually held on by 3-4 screws located underneath. If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jason_4570d45317834dd3

You will have to remove the back panel to access this part. Be sure that you unplug the machine before starting. Once the back panel has been taken off and placed aside the thermal switch will be located on the left lower side near the blower housing . It will be thin and long and located near the cycling thermostat that has for prongs on it. On certain machines, the thermal fuse is located in the front. To access this you must remove the kickplate, which can be done by pushing the clips, one on each side jsut above the top of the kickplate, in between the top and abottom portion. The part numbers are the same for either style dryer. To test this part you can either take the wires off it and tie them together then plug the machine back in and see if it starts, or you can use a multimeter and check to see if there is continuity, if there is its good, if not, bad. The thermal fuse will usually be white, and if located in the back, be thin and long with two wires on it, left and right. If in the bottom front, it will be front center on the exhaust duct. Another possible problem is that the door switch isn't functioning properly. You can visually check this by open the door and pressing the switch and listen for a click sound upon pressing and releasing . If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jason_4570d45317834dd3

The way to visually see if the belt has broken or not is to 1) unplug the dryer. 2) Remove the lint screen on the top of the dryer. 3) take the two phillips head screws out where the lint trap is. 4) with a flat head screwdriver pop the top of the dryer up by sliding the driver inbetween the top and front of the dryer and pry upwards a little. 5) You'll now see the drum, if the belt is not around it its broken, and if it's visible try to lift it. If it taught, its good. IF THE BELT IS BROKEN OR LOOSE CONTINUE TO NEXT STEPS 6) on the left and right upper inner sides of the dryer you will find two screws, one on each side, remove these and the front should be easlily remove. 7) once off you'll be able to easily see the motor, the belts idler pulley, and everything else. If the dryer is a DUET or HE2 or HE3 style, (dryers that match the front loader) then the way you take the top off is a little different. For these machines, there are 3 to 4 screws located on the top back side you'll need to remove, and then the dryer top can be slid back and removed If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jason_4570d45317834dd3

Hi,
You will first need to determine where the problem is, I would disconnect the dryer vent from the dryer. Now if the drying improves, problem is not the dryer, its the vent system. If no change, does the unit heat at first then slowly fail to heat? Does it produce any heat? I need more information to direct you in the correct direction.
Please get back to me I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gere_bf68e6055dd61249

If your ELECTRIC dryer is still running, but does NOT produce heat, the following two links can give you advice on how to troubleshoot an ELECTRIC dryer with a no heat problem:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3576548-dryer_runs_but_does_not_heat

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3574266-thorough_dryer_advice


IMPORTANT: Your problem may or may not be related to a heating element problem as there are numerous factors that can cause a dryer not to heat. The heating element has protection devices that are designed to regulate the heat and internal temperatures. If the dryer overheats the Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) typically will blow BEFORE the heating element. The replacement kit is much cheaper than purchasing a new heating element that may or may not be the problem.

Begin by verifying the source voltage at the receptacle and service breaker, and verify your power cord.

The reason a dryer may still run if the input voltage is incorrect, is because the drive motor only uses a portion of the 220 service. The motor runs off 110-120VAC, while the heating circuits require 220-240VAC. So, if you are missing 1/2 your input voltage due to a tripped breaker or bad power cord, your dryer may exhibit these symptoms.

If you determine the problem to be internal, the heating circuits will either be located in the rear of the dryer on the right hand, or under the dryer drum. Usually, an easy way to determine is by the location of the lint screen filter. If the filter is on top of the dryer, the heating circuits are in the back of the dryer. If the lint screen is in the door, the heating circuits are located under the dryer drum.


NOTE: If either the TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat are determined to be bad, replace BOTH components at the same time. That is why these components are commonly sold as a set. Failure to do so may result in premature failure of any parts you replace.

Replacement parts can be purchased at any of the following websites:

searspartsdirect.com
pcappliancerepair.com
appliancepartspros.com
repairclinic.com

The first three sites listed also have helpful exploded view parts illustrations that you can use to locate and properly identify any parts you may need. If you have questions, require additional assistance, please post back and let me know. I hope this helps you.

Hi julian 66

ALWAYS UNPLUG YOUR DRYER BEFORE STARTING ANY REPAIRS
Your problem sounds like drum rollers have flat spots on them or in need of lubrication, or maybe your drum belt has slipped off of the idler arm pulley.

Note: This method works with most front loading machines.

Remove the electrical console that holds the timer switch, start switch, etc. from the top of the dryer.
Note: Some tops hinge and tilt backwards so they do not have to be removed and the electrical console with stay with the lid.
Also remove the lint filter and the screws holding the lint filter housing in place.
Be REAL CAREFUL not to knock any of the wires off of the timer switch. Then remove the top of the dryer.
Remove the front of the dryer by removing two screws located on either side of the top of the dryer housing and unplug the door switch.
This will expose the drum and belt. Remove the drum and belt and this will expose the drum rollers, idler arm pulley and motor.Now is a good time to replace the front felt seal on the drum if it needs to be replaced. Be sure to use a good grade of weatherproof cement on the seal to glue it to the drum, sometimes the glue is furnished with the seal.
Now is also a good time to check the belt to see if it has slipped off of the idler arm pulley and also to check the belt condition for wear.
Be sure to note the route of the belt, this will come in handy when you go to reinstall the belt.
Check your drum rollers for flat spots or wear, if they have flat spots they will make a thumping type of noise or if there is too much wear on them replace them.
If the drum rollers don't have flat spots or wear on them then they probably only need lubrication. Lubricate the shaft of the rollers with a good grade of machine oil such as 3 in One oil, or a light lubricant like Vasoline.
Reassemble the dryer.
Plug back into your electrical receptical.
This should solve your noise problem.
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Hi

Please check the link bellow to troubleshoot your problem when your dryer is not starting:-

http://www.repairclinic.com/Dryer-Troubleshooting?red=Dryer-Repair-Help#itdoesntworkatall_electric

Please get back to us if you have further query else please accept the suggestion.

Thank you for contacting fixya.com

You probably have a broken belt or your belt has slipped off of the idler pulley.
I will send you what works on a Whirlpool,Roper, and numerous dryers, maybe it will work for you.

http://www.applianceaid.com/images/belt-config.JPG

If you hear a loud bang while your dryer is working, and you notice that the
drum has stopped turning, chances are the drivebelt has snapped.
Fortunately, replacing the belt is a fairly straightforward operation that
can be handled with a few simple tools.
First, unplug the dryer. Lift the lint-screen cover and pull out the lint screen
If your dryer has a lint screen on the inside of the door, skip this step.
Then remove the two screws that are under the cover. To unlatch the dryer top,
insert a thin-blade putty knife between the top and front panel,
about 2 1/2 in. in from one corner. Push in on the knife to release the locking
clip, lift the corner, then release the clip on the other side. Swing the top
up and lean it against the wall.
Next, move to the lower toe panel. Slip the putty knife between the lower panel
and the door panel at one side and twist the knife to release the clip
Then release the opposite clip and lift the panel up and off the hinge springs.
To support the dryer drum while the belt is being replaced, place scrap wood
under the front of the drum.
Loosen the two screws at each side of the bottom of the front panel.
Move to the top of the panel and remove the screws from the inside of the
cabinet that hold the front panel to the sides.
Slide the old belt off the drum.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Installing the belt
Lean the front panel out slightly and allow the drum to rest on the scrap wood
support. Drop the new dryer belt between the front panel and the drum, and
loop it over the drum. Then, lift the drum slightly while pushing the front
panel back into position.
Replace the screws at the top inside of the front panel, tighten the lower panel
screws and remove the scrap wood from under the drum. Check to make sure that
the rear drum seal fits properly over the lip on the rear bulkhead.
Position the new belt where the old belt was, with the grooved side of the belt
facing down.
Now, move to the motor area and pull out the old belt. To route the new belt
around the idler and drive pulley, first pass the entire belt, doubled up,
under the idler pulley. Then, push the idler belt toward the motor, slip the
belt around the motor pulley and release the tension on the idler pulley.

Open the dryer door and rotate the drum counterclockwise a few times to make
sure the belt is tracking properly. Lower the top and press down at each
corner to engage the clips. Lift the lint-screen cover, replace the two screws
and reinstall the lint screen. Finally, secure the lower front panel and turn
on the dryer for a test.
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Replace your timer, it is defective and non rebuildable.
Be sure to get the same type,mfg, etc...
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Hi,

There can be many reasons why your dryer will not start or turn...

The most common causes are the belt breaking or jumping off, or the motor goingbad...

Here are a couple of tips that I wrote will help you to figure out why yourdryer will not run...

Dryer Repair - The Dryer is not Turning

Dryer Repair - The dryer will not start


heatman101

Unplug the dryer and the first thing to do is check for the presence of 220 volts at the wall outlet. If you lost one leg of the 220 volts, it is possible for your dryer to run but there will not be any heat. Once you verified there is definitely 220 volts at the wall outlet, remove the rear cover. On the lower right hand side you will see a silver canister which contains the heating element. Remove the lower two wires directly from the heating element and check this for continuity. If it is good, on the left hand side of the same canister they often install a thermal safety which may have tripped. Do the same test as with the heating element. Remove the wires and test the thermal safety for continuity. If this is good, move to the blower housing on the left side of the exhaust vent and look for a white piece of plastic which has two wires on it. Remove these two wires and check this item for continuity.

you can follow this link below to find out how to test for individual components to find out what part is faulty...

http://www.partselect.com/dryer+dryer-wont-heat+repair.htm

You can also order for any replacement part from the following Websites

www.PartSelect.com

www.SearspartsDirect.com

If you found my solution of any help ... please do not forget to rate the solution

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There can be many reasons why your dryer will not start or turn...

The most common causes are the belt breaking or jumping off, or the motor going bad...

Here are a couple of tips that I wrote will help you to figure out why your dryer will not run...

Dryer Repair - The Dryer is not Turning

Dryer Repair - The dryer will not start


heatman101

It sounds like the thermal fuse is blown. It is wired in series with the motor and the dryer will definitely not start if the thermal fuse is blown. Disconnect power to the dryer then remove the rear access panel.

Look for the thermal fuse on the blower housing as shown.


Bypass the thermal fuse by taping together the wires connected to its terminals then plug and start the dryer. The thermal fuse (part number 3392519) is indeed blown and needs to be replaced together with the cycling thermostat (part number 3387134) if the the starts with the thermal fuse bypassed.

Feel free to update us about the development of the troubleshooting and repair. You don't have to accept or reject and rate this post to add information or post comments and follow-up questions. Accepting a solution does not stop you from communicating with an expert. You may continue communicating with the expert as long as you need assistance regarding the issue stated herein.

You either have a bad flame sensor in this unit or a bad coil on the gas valve. Both parts are relatively inexpensive and very easy to replace if you have already gained access to the burner area.
The flame sensor is located on the side of the round tube that the ignitor is inside of. This part actually watches for the glow of the ignitor and allows the valve to open. This is a square box assembly that has only two wires connected to it. It has a tab at the bottom that fits into a slot in the burner tube and one screw at the top to secure it to the tube. Part number of this is 338906 and should cost around $30.
The gas valve coils are located on the top of the valve. There are two of them and they are black and cylinder shaped. The coils are held to the valve by a cover plate that is held down by two phillips head screws. The coils have plug in type jack connectors going to them and are sized so that you cannot connect them wrong. The part number for both coils is 279834 and they should cost about $20.
Good luck with this and let me know if you have any other questions!!

catherine,
the belt goes under the roller and then onto the motor

you could have several problems but the first thing to do would be to check the door switch. Most of the time you can use a small screwdriver to push the switch in and out. you should hear a click when you do this if the switch is good. you can also use an ohm meter to check the switch if you know how to use one.

another culprit is the thermal fuse located on the back of the machine. you must remove the rear panel. it is usually a small white object with 2 wires attached to it. if for any reason the machine over heats this thermal fuse will shut the dryer down. it is not resetable and must be replaced if no continuity flows through it. if it is bad usually something caused it such as a stopped up vent , crimped hose or possibly a thermostat failure. check these items and clean out the lint on the outside of your house vent as well. don't use plastic vent hose and don't try to push the dryer up too close to the wall causing the vent to partially collapse.

The little white part with one hole is the thermal fuse, similar to the cutoff but service a different purpose.

The cut off will blow if there is lack of air flow, typically a plugged vent or lint screen.

The thermal fuse will blow if the exhaust temperature is too high. The reason the temperature is too hot can be one of two things.

#1 and most likely is the component right next to the thermal fuse, it is the operating thermostat.

#2 A shorted heat element that is on all the time, this can be checked by turning the timer knob to 30 minutes on the timed dry cycle, close the door but do not start the dryer. Open the door after about 2 minutes and see if the drum is hot. If it is not the element is okay.

I hope this helps

it is a 29 inch dieameter dryer which should hold 30 pounds of cloths in it. here is the page where you can go and get all the pRTS LISTINGS FOR THIS MACHINE FOR FREE PLUS A 800 NUMBER FOR ANY ADDTIONAL INFORMATION YOU MIGHT NEED.
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/model.aspx?model_id=503351