20 Most Recent KitchenAid KAWS850L Top Load Washer Questions & Answers

Dear Cindy, Fixya people are not on a switchboard, and we do not answer until someone of us reads and understands the problem, and knows how to advise you to fix it. You could wait days or weeks, depending on who reads the problem, and what they know about it. We are at home or at work somewhere, and are answering questions in our "spare time". Two things to check are the drive belt (if it has one) or the coupling attached to the motor (if it has one) God bless your efforts.

I don't have the number for you, but I can offer a method for measuring it. First, the next time you do laundry, set the water level switch to where you will use it for the dyeing task. With the lid open, but with no clothes inside, turn on the washing machine. Observe and note the level of the water when the machine stops filling. Measure the depth of the water. Add clothes and detergent and wash in the usual manner - you don't need to waste that water. Next, pour four gallon jugs of water into a clean five-gallon pail, and mark the level in the pail (four gallons in the pail is much easier to handle than a brim-full five gallons). Pour that into the machine, and measure the depth. Put in another four gallons of water, and measure the depth again. If the bottom part of the agitator is covered by the first four gallons, you can can calculate from the increase in depth made by the second four gallons how many more gallons you need to get to the fill depth. (The bottom of the agitator takes up more volume per inch of depth than the center and top,) If the bottom of the agitator is not covered by the first four gallons, but is covered by the second four, then add a third four-gallon pour and measure the depth once more. Here is an example measurement: water depth on chosen load size setting: 16 inches. Depth on first four gallons: 2 1/2 inches (some of the water is under the bottom of the inner tub). The agitator bottom taper is almost covered, but not quite. Depth on second four gallons: 7 inches. The water level is above the bottom section of the agitator, so from this point the water depth will increase by the same amount per gallon added. Depth on the third four gallons: 11 inches. We can now see that from this point, adding four gallons makes the water level go up four inches, so to reach the 16 inch mark,we need five more gallons. The total will be 4+4+4+5 = 17 gallons. For what it's worth, there's about 7.48 gallons per cubic foot. If your machine's outer tub holds an additional cubic foot of water, my example numbers may be roughly what you will get.

To open the top of the washer, you must first open the console. Where the bottom of your console meets the top of your washer, you should find a screw on both the right and left hand sides. After removing these screws, pull the bottom of the console to you then rotate it up. Where the back (dull silver) panel meets the top, you should see two brass colored clips. The trick to getting these off, is sticking either a screw driver or pair of needle nose pliersdown where the clip goes into the top. While simultaniously pushing down, push the top of the tool towards the rear of the machine. Once you have the clips off, the front, sides and top will all come off as one assembly(your cabinet). Slowly start to pull the cabinet towards you grasping it at the top. You will have a couple of the small black hoses at the top still connected. Since it is difficult to describe, as you are pulling the top of the cabinet towards you, look for the hoses that start to get tight. A pair of pliers or channel locks will squeeze the clamps enough to allow you to get the hoses off. After you have these disconnected, slide the cabinet slightly forwar and you'll be able to lift it out of the way. A common source of leakage on these is one of the black hoses that goes down to the tub. If it pops off, you will get water on the floor nearly every cycle. Check your dispensers to make sure they are not plugged and causeing an overflow leak. he remaining clprits are your pump (white plastic on the bottom center, the hoses going to it and possibly the tub itself. Good luck and message me back if you need anything else.

It is possible that the machine does not start off the cycle because there are errors due to feedback from the inputs. For the program to start up the main program controller must initiate the INLET/MOTOR/DRAIN pump/ valve to open up and allow each function to be driven starting from the flow of water into the drum as also the drain valve to open to exit the water at the point of the program cycle. If this does not happen then the voltage at the valve/motor/pump must be checked or the fault relates to no voltage from the controller. This means the controller is a suspect.

If the water flows though the inlet then the flow pressure should be good, if not the inlet valve is bad or there is dirt in the filter. Also check the flow at the inlet of the water line. Once the water comes into the system the WATER LEVEL SENSOR - normally a pressure switch- must activate at the preset/chosen level to give the signal to the program controller to switch on the motor. What is most important for the motor to start functioning is that the door switch must be ON when the door is shut or this will be an error for starting the motor for rinse and wash.

Test a pressure switch: Click on : http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HZZ2bDMspj8

Check this link to replace the inlet valve: http://www.espares.co.uk/advice/washing-machines/a/7/1408/how-to-replace-the-inlet-valve-on-a-washer-dr.html