20 Most Recent KitchenAid KSRS27ILSS Side by Side Refrigerator - Page 6 Questions & Answers

Your unit is in need of a auto defrost repair..There are 3 components that might need replacing..1 defrost heater..2 defrost thermostat..3 defrost mechanical timer or newer models have a computer PCB type control..usually all 3 are replaced to guarantee resolve of problem.

you can pop the cover off of the ice maker,on the module you'll see some letters,if you get a jumper wire and stick it into the T and H the ice maker should start to spin,if it doesn't the ice maker is bad,then remove the wire and stick it into the V and L,water should start to fill the ice maker,if it doesn't most likely you have a bad water valve,just get a piece of wire,strip off both ends to make a jumper wire.one more thing,check the fill cup and the fill line to see if there's any ice in there,if the water valve is bad water can drip through and freeze in the cup or fill line stopping the water from entering the ice maker,if there is melt it out with a hair dryer,also if you have to get in there with a hair dryer be careful with the heat on any plastic parts,you can damage it and don't heat the fuse on the ice maker wires,it's a black fuse built into the harness you can damage it if it gets to hot.you can go here to see your parts https://www.searspartsdirect.com/model-number/KBFS20EVMS4/0593/0161000.html?searchType=modelSearch&q=KBF320EVMS4&searchTerm=KBF320EVMS4

Maybe track that rollers move in is the problem. Get someone to physically look at it

Perhaps insulate the line. If this developed recently perhaps there is another problem causing this.

There should be plenty of room where the tubing connects to the water solenoids once you get the cardboard cover off. There should be no need to tilt the refrigerator to do the job.

I run into this issue a few times. The noise is coming from a control board and it has a weak component. Depending on your model, multiple control boards will have to be replaced. This will take care of the control panel also. Good Luck

Built in KitchenAid means your fridge is in the price range of $ 10,000/=. Most likely the compressor and condenser on the top of the fridge. That is why you get the ringing noise. May be compressor not starting properly. Starting device issue or compressor seized. Shut off the fridge and call a local service guy or Whirlpool Corporation. No time to test this and that. Your fridge worth $ 10,000/=. Don't be penny wise and pound foolish.

That is not the model number. A Kitchenaid model number will start with a K, followed by a few letter, then numbers, more letters and end with two numbers. Here's an example, KSRA22FKSS00. Once you find the correct model number, there are a number of sites you can use to find parts breakdown. Good Luck

Even though the freezer thermistor passes the test, it's bad. The test only sees if the thermistor is open circuit or grounded. These thermistors can send bad information to board. Replace the freezer thermistor and I think that will solve your issue. Good Luck

That's tough, sorry about issues due to hurricane. Once power was restored, unit should've started with no issues. But I fear that an electrical surge might have taken out a weak component. If lights are working, fans working and control working, but no cooling, it could be the relay/overload on compressor. It could also be a control board that was damaged. It's just hard to say. I suggests to get a qualified service tech to look at. Good Luck

That's interesting, -10 or colder is too cold and something is defiantly going on. This unit is controlled by a mulitple control boards, temperture sensors and other components. Question, what is freezer temp set at? Try increasing it by 3-4 degrees and see if that changes anything. Beyond that, I'm going to change the temp sensor first before doing any of the control boards. #29 is the temp. sensor. Good Luck

That is usually on the model/serial sticker located inside refrigerator section at top. Hopefully the control came with instructions on how to enter service mode and enter code. Otherwise, the unit will not function. Good Luck

https://www.repairclinic.com/Shop-For-Parts/a4/Refrigerator-Parts This link should show x-over part numbers I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/david_dc2f9e0a44104720

I can't think of any reason moving it would cause that problem. How are your door seals? Are both fans(evaporator fan in freezer and condenser fan at compressor)working? Did you give it 24 hours for temps to stabilize?

Unplug your refrigerator for 10 min. then plug it back in. It should come back on so you can reprogram it to your liking. If It fails to go back to default settings and operate normally, you may need a visit from a service tech. I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/david_dc2f9e0a44104720

if the unit is sort of new and this is a loud popping (snap) noise, this is a problem with many models and manufacturers. It is a plastic part expanding and contracting during the self-defrost cycle. There is no fix, it is a common "defect" which manufacturers can't or won't rectify. The noise is loud enough to hear in other parts of the house.Good news is mine stopped making noise after about 6 months. It does not affect the performance of the unit. If this is not a newer model, this is most likely not the problem. Good luck