20 Most Recent KitchenAid KSRS25ILSS Side by Side Refrigerator Questions & Answers

Is KSRS25ILSS the correct model number? Check the pin plug that is under the hinge cover on the freezer door side to insure it is together snug, Sea Breeze

You need to replace the ice maker. The tray heater has probably failed.

the door liner would have to come off to repair wiring and i mm=king on a replacement harness for this model / double ck your model # as ican't find your exat model .. .. feed back pls . i will update you as soon as i get some info ..mm

Hi,

Here is a tip that I wrote about the reasons why ice makers do not work.

Ice Maker Problems and Ice Maker Troubleshooting

heatman101

the problem is the same as maytags but it may not be a recall model . relay is white . the new style are blk . you can purchase the new relay kit.( what is a start devise .kit / changing it will solve the problem .. also you should contact whrlpool .. mm

Try flushing out with bi carbonate of soda.

Either the flap that directs the air flow is stuck in one direction, or freon is low, or temp sensor is faulty which you can test with an ohmmeter.

turn it counter clockwise 1/4 turn and pull out.

That snow is the condensate build up on the evaporator coils behind the rear panel of your freezer. Normally the freezer will go into defrost about every 10 hours and this snow will melt and drain out the defrost condensate line below the evaporator and go to a pan under your refrigerator and return back to the air inside your home. I believe your freezer is missing the defrost cycle either because the controls for the defrost are defective or the defrost heater and defrost thermostat is defective. I would be watching for an increase in refrigerator temperatures soon, due to loss of defrost. We will need to unplug and examine the evaporator coils behind the rear wall of the freezer. If frozen or covered with snow then defrost with a hair dryer and lets check the defrost heater and all its related components. Sea Breeze

Not a themostat. 3 most common causes are defrost problem (frost on back freezer panel), bad evaporator fan motor, or damper.

Hi,

2 possibilites.

Hopefully it's just the overload and relay. Remove the back cover in back by the compressor. On the left side of the compressor will be the overload and relay, connected to the compressor. If they are contained in a white casing, unplug the refer and remove it. Shake it and see if it rattles. If so that's probably your problem. This unit does have a electronic defrost board that could also be the culprit, but start with that overload and relay.

OR

It may be that your timer is stuck and the defroster doesent know when to come on.I will bet you have ice obstructing the flow of coid air to the Goodies department. the frezzer works but that;s a diffrent compartment. I fixed a lot of thease, I hope I can fix yours. #1 take everything out and put in ice chests. #2 look on the back of the fridge. Find a hole that a screw driver will fit in to a switch. This switch is known to stich up, ok . Turn it several times in a clock ward direction , end up where you started.hopefuly this will unstick the sensor ,timer . But let it totaly melt out you have ice build up in the upper half. once all is melted out .

Thanks for contacting Fixya

Yes replace the start relay and overload. Part number 4387835 or 4387535 or 8201799. If that doesnt help it then you need a need compressor. Most of those factory relays have a capacitor on them. You need to pay attention to how they are wired up.

You should be able hear, and feel the air from, a running fan inside the cabinet, in either side. The common arrangement is having the coils located (behind the wall) in the freezer section and then the fan moves a controlled amount of the frigid air to the refrigerator section via openings located in the rear of the compartment. The vents are normally adjustable so the temperature can be balanced between the two compartments.  If there is no noticeable air coming from this vent, then the fan has died.

J, sounds like your dispensor flapper is not closing properly and you are drawing warm air up into the ice bucket. This model had an issue where the flapper pin holder was part of the housing and would break off. They have a kit now that fixes that problem. The only other thing it could be would be low freezer temps or it's staying in defrost too long. With out being there, I would start with the dispensor flapper. Check it out and post back.. Catriver.

Troubleshoot step by step and if that fails, resort to a professional: Check the Basics: Make sure the refrigerator is plugged in and receiving power. Verify that the water supply to the refrigerator is turned on. Inspect the Dispenser Actuator: The dispenser actuator is the component that activates the switch to send voltage to the dispenser. Check if the dispenser actuator is damaged. If so, replace it with a new one. I list a procedure for testing this actuator at the end of these basic steps. Frozen Water Tube: Disconnect the water supply tube at the bottom of the door. Blow air through it. If air doesn't pass through, the water supply tube may be frozen. Thaw it out and ensure the freezer is set to the proper temperature (0-10°F) to prevent future freezing. Water Inlet Valve: The water inlet valve opens to supply water to the dispenser. Ensure the water pressure to the valve is at least 20 psi. Use a multimeter to test the water inlet valve for continuity. If it lacks continuity, replace it. Check Water Filter: Remove the water filter and dispense water. If flow increases, the filter may be clogged or incorrectly installed. Replace the water filter if needed. Verify Water Supply Valve: Ensure the water supply valve (connected to the refrigerator) is fully open. If disconnected during service, it might not have been turned back on fully. And now, the testing of the actuator. To determine whether the dispenser actuator in your KitchenAid refrigerator is damaged, follow these steps: Visual Inspection: Look closely at the dispenser actuator. Check for any visible signs of damage, such as cracks, chips, or breakage. If you notice any physical damage, it's likely that the actuator needs replacement. Functional Test: Press the dispenser lever or button as you normally would to dispense water. Observe the response: Does the actuator move smoothly and engage the switch behind it? If the actuator feels stiff, loose, or doesn't move at all, it may be damaged. Listen for Clicking: When you press the dispenser lever, listen for a clicking sound. The actuator should make a distinct click as it activates the switch. If there's no click or an unusual noise, it could indicate a damaged actuator. Multimeter Test (Advanced): If you have a multimeter, you can perform a continuity test on the actuator. Disconnect the refrigerator from power. Remove the actuator cover (if applicable) to access the actuator. Set the multimeter to the continuity (ohms) setting. Touch the multimeter probes to the actuator terminals. If there's no continuity (infinite resistance), the actuator is likely faulty. Remember to exercise caution when working with electrical components. If you're unsure or uncomfortable performing these checks, consider seeking professional repair assistance. Remember to consult your Owner's Manual for specific instructions related to your model. Much of this information comes from the RepairClinic site.

Question edited for a lot more clarity, 'make model (what it is)'. Question moved for correct category. Yes they are, direct or from Parts Suppliers. https://www.google.com/search?q=KSRS25Q+WH11+door+gasket ..

Possibly you r hhermostat in Fridge section gone bad. (if freezer working then most likely (if freezer at top & fridge has Iced up or food in the freezer or fridge Is Blocking the Air vents inside that circulates the cool air flow to Bottom or top, check & listen to see if Fan is working inside freezer /fridge worst case scenario is (if you have a p.c board on top , that could b a Fault there also (then you need a Tech, ).