20 Most Recent KitchenAid KESC308LSS Electric Kitchen Range Questions & Answers

You might have blown the thermal fuse. Here is a diagram of your unit.The fuse is number 37 on the diagram. Check it for continuity. Here is the part to order in case it is bad.Keep me posted.Regards,Richard Rothhttp://appliancecafe.comFor all your appliance repair needs.

F5-E7 Code - Self clean latch will not unlockCheck this procedure to solve it:1. If door latched: A. Disconnect power from unit. B. Check wires and connectors from control to door switch, then from door switch to control. If no damage to wires and all connectors okay, proceed tostep C. C. Replace door switch. D. Re-apply power. E. Press and hold any key down for 1 minute to clear F5 failure code from memory. F2 will appear. Press CANCEL and observe for 1 minute to ensure operation is correct.2. If door not latched: A. Disconnect power from unit. B. Check wires and connectors from control to latch switch, then from latch switch to control. If no damage to wires and all connectors okay, proceed tostep C. C. Repeat steps A and B for door switch.3. Measure door switch (door open = switch open small low voltage terminals). Replace switch if defective.4. Measure latch switch (unlatch = switch open, CAUTION - oven light contacts are closed). Replace switch if defective.5. If corrections are made in any step, reconnect power to control. Press and hold any key for 1 minute to clear R failure code from memory. F2 will appear. Press CANCEL and observe for 1 minute to ensure operation is correct.6. If failure remains, disconnect power and replace control.Note: Applies to all F5-E... codesHope this helps.

Hi,If the model range you have this listed under is correct, the problem more than likely is a bad igniter on the Bake manifold. Each manifold has its own igniter. Since the bake feature gets used more often it tends to wear out faster. The following link explains oven igniters and how to replace one:

This advice is for GAS ovens with glow bar type igniters. This is a fairly simple repair that MOST do-it-yourselfers can accomplish with just a little guidance. But, first, here?s a little gas oven theory to help you better understand how to determine if an igniter is bad:

The way the ignition system in most of today?s ovens work is like this:

Set the oven or broiler temperature.
The igniter begins to glow.
Once the igniter reaches a certain current potential, the gas safety valve opens.
Gas is introduced into the manifold and you have ignition.
NOTE: It can take roughly 30 ? 90 seconds from the time you set your oven temp to the time it takes for the gas to ignite.


NOTE: This is a designed safety feature of the oven to prevent free flowing gas from accumulating in your home without ignition. That?s why you typically don?t hear any gas flowing when you have an igniter problem. You might think you have a gas problem when actually you have an ignition problem.

TWO BASIC IGNITER TYPES:

Carborundum (Cylindrical in shape) ? needs to produce 2.5 to 3.0 amps for the gas safety valve to work.
Norton (Rectangular in shape) ? needs to produce 3.2 to 3.7 amps for the gas safety valve to work.

NOTE: There is a UNIVERSAL FLAT BAR igniter on the market as well, that can be used as a substitute if the igniter type that came with your range is not available.

An easy way to determine if you may have an igniter problem is to check BOTH your oven features. If the oven doesn?t light, check the broiler and vice versa. Since both the BROIL manifold and BAKE manifold are fed from the same gas source, but have separate igniters, it?s an easy assumption to make that the igniter may be bad, if one or the other doesn?t light.

The igniter typically goes bad in one of two ways, the igniter either stops glowing completely, or becomes weak over time and doesn?t produce enough current to open the gas safety valve (in this case the igniter will still glow but the oven still won?t light). Longer ignition times can be another symptom of an igniter possibly going bad.

For this solution, however, we?re going to assume you have a bad igniter and need to replace it. Follows these steps:

NOTE: The same method applies to both the broiler and bake manifold.

UNPLUG the range and turn the gas off if you have a local gas cut-out valve (it is recommended that you do).
Open oven door and remove (if possible). Refer to your owner?s manual to see if there are instructions on how to remove the oven door. Some have spring-loaded locking hinges, while others just lift out. If you cannot figure out how to remove the oven door, use care not to lean on the door or put too much weight on it. A common complaint following any kind of oven maintenance is that the oven door doesn?t shut correctly any longer. This is usually caused by bending the hinges or springs coming loose.
Remove the oven racks, and remove the oven pan. (There are usually two screws either in the back or front of the oven holding the pan in place).
Remove the Flame Spreader. This is a metal plate on top of the manifold.
The igniter will be mounted directly to the gas manifold. Follow the wires that lead to igniter. It will either be plugged into a connector, or be connected together with ceramic wire lugs. Your replacement igniter should come with extra ceramic wire lugs. In the event the plug does not match the one on your range, cut the wires and connect using the ceramic wire lugs. DO NOT use standard wire lugs, they are not heat resistant and will melt.
Unplug the old igniter and remove the mounting screw holding it to the gas manifold.
Install new igniter on gas manifold using care not to handle the element on the igniter with your hands. The oil from your hands can cause damage and/or premature failure. The igniter is also considered FRAGILE.
Reconnect the wires using the recommendations mentioned in Step 5.
Plug in the range, turn the gas valve back on and do a visual test by setting the oven temperature to the desired range. Allow 30 ? 90 seconds for the igniter to light the gas. Turn oven off and allow sufficient time to cool. If the oven has only been lit for a minute or so, the cool down period will be brief.
Reinstall the flame spreader, oven pan, and racks. Reinstall door if necessary.


Most igniters cost around $50. Prices will vary with models. I hope this information is helpful.




Good sources to find a replacement igniter include:

searspartsdirect.com*
appliancepartspros.com*
pcappliancerepair.com
repairclinic.com

All these sites offer great service with competitive pricing, so shop all of them for the best price.

* These two sites also provided excellent exploded view diagrams to assist in part identification and assembly.

If you have any questions about this repair, please let me know. I hope you find this information helpful.

Browse below to find the part or product that you need.:

http://www.apwagner.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=4_170&sort=20a&filter_id=10&alpha_filter_id=0

It appears that this code is a code for "keypad spill" so it somehow may have gotten liquid inside the keypad. It may be as simple as removing the face panel and wiping clean the keypad and putting it together, or you may end up needing to purchase an entire keypad and installing.

you are suppose to have no less than 220 volt coming out of wall, it is very common for the main board to go out ,where your chord attaches to your stove ck power there make sure you have 220

After having checked the fuses, it would most likely be the oven switch because it is unlikely that both elements would go at the same time. Mane sure that the main switch is off when removing fuses to check them!

pull out the range turn off power at the breaker or unplug the range if possible. in the back there is a panel you need to remove there is a thermal/fuse. remove it and if you have a continuity tester or can borrow one. test to see if the fuse is good. if it is not replace it. once replaced you can repower it back up. good luck!

All F3-E Codes - Oven Temperature Sensor (RTD) or Warming Drawer Defect - Replace oven temperature sensor (RTD).


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It would be inthe top where all your controls are. Access would start with the removal of the back of the range.

you will need to replace the control panel of the unit to make the display work. as you mentioned there is no display showing up. so first unplug the unit from main power outlet and wait for a minute then reconnect the power plug and check out. if still the display is blank.then its a short circuit in the control panel board.so it has to be replaced. to get the control panel.you can to get it from www.repairclinic.com or also from www.partselect.com This will help. Thanks please keep updated.please do rate the solution positively .thank you for using fixya.

PF means power failure.
For short outages the clock may still have correct time
(there is a battery backup for that), but the PF will
be displayed. Setting the clock will clear the PF
indication.

Press 'clock set-start' button, (under clock display)
enter time with numeric keypad,
press 'start' button. (to right of clock)

im sorry about that.i have replace many of those running around 400$,that a lot of money.i have see glass top stoves on sale 4 that much.and i think they all are about the same as quilty goes.God bless,tom