KitchenAid KESC307 Electric Kitchen Range - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

I plugged in the probe and stuck it into a pyrex measuring cup of water, set the probe temp to 165, set the convection (or bake) oven to 500, and turned it on. This allowed it to run for about 20 minutes, and cleaned out the probe jack. Works fine now.

hopefull yyou havent disconnect old switch yet. whirpool and kit aid are same Co. same parts used. assuming the correct part was sent for the corrrect burner. diffrerent element will require different rated swties(ie. small , large, dual and so forth.), the indivudal switches are labeled, on the swithc itself ( L1,L2,H1 H2, P1 andso forth, so although the switches looke differnet they should stil have the same lettered terminal to plug into .

Ok....Just replaced the Left Front "dual burner" switch on my Kitchenaid Supurba.

Original switch symptom:
Burner was stuck on all the time. We had to switch the circuit off in the main breaker box in the basement.

New switch problem:
The new replacement switch did not work properly. The element would come on and would never cycle on and off. Thus, the net result was if you turn the burner on, it was on "high". It didn't matter where put the heat setting at...It's on high for both the inner element and the larger outer element.

I ended up taking the old switch apart and found that one of the contacts was mis-aligned and wedged itself in the "closed" position. I un-wedged the mis-aligned contact and bent it back into alignment. I took out the new switch and put the old one back in. It works perfectly.

Meanwhile, I had to figure out why the new switch was not working. The new switch comes with re-wiring instructions because it is not an exact replacement as the old switch. There is a chart that tells you what wires go to which prongs on the new switch. The new switch also includes a "jumper wire" that must be installed. Here's where I went wrong. The instructions say to jump S1 to P1 (which I did). But, I did not route it exactly as the picture shows and the brass crimp end actually hits against another unused connector. So be careful when routing the jumper wire.

Old Switch Number: 9751758
New Switch Number: 8203536 (Made by FSP Appliance Care Products - A Whirlpool Corporation)

Now for the wiring:

Description Wire Color Old Switch New Switch
& designation Terminal # Terminal #

L1 Black (RL1) 2 P1
H1 Red 3 4
H2 Orange (LFA) 4 4A
P Dark Red 5 S2
N or L2b Brown (LFN) N 2
N or L2b Red (RL2) N P2

On the new switch, use the supplied jumper wire to jump S1 to P1 as instructed.
Yes, on the old switch, 2 wires connect to a common connector (the Brown LFN & Red RL2).

Unfortunatley, I did not document the red wire (LF3)...Sorry....

Hope this helps.....

Breaker has burnt up electrical box has burnt leg or bad plug in

Tech sheet doesn't say much says noise interference at keypad says press cancel button and remove electronic noise interference if code returns replace key pad assembly not a common code if you chose to replace the keypad make sure it comes with instructions have changed two has to be programmed

Go to the electrical department of your local home repair store and buy an electrical circuit tester. They look like a plug and have three lights on them some have the three lights and a small button to test gfci circuits. plug it into the 110 outlet and check if it is wired correctly. If this is a 220 circuit disregard and give me more information

Ghosts.... Okay, at this point some trouble shooting is needed. Unless you have a multi-meter and know how to use it you need a professional. Surges in thesource may cause this as well as poor grounds in the builings electrical sysytem.

will need to disconect from power then remove the cover on back to get to remove screws hand

If you have checked the power outlet and switched it on, there is no way of diagnosing further from such a vague question. Is it completely dead? in which case it could be a fuse. More info would help

Try disconnecting range from power source for 20 minutes and allow to completely cool down. Reconnect and try.

I do not know your unit but it sounds like one of the fuses has failed if you have them. If burners work then probably the thermostat. This is just a guess.

Unfortunately the f11 error means the clock is shorted. I have actually seen this issue several times on this unit. Its not your fault and theres nothing you did or could have done prevent this issue. You need to have the clock replaced to fix the error code. The clock on this model is the brains of the operations. Here is the part to order.There is also a video on that parts page to show you how to make the repair.All parts come with a 365 day, any part, any reason return policy.

The problem is that the probe connector socket (a mini-phone jack) can get cooking goop in it like the inside of an oven tends to do, and the contacks get shorted or partially shorted. Since a temp probe works on resistance in the tip you stick in the meat, it thinks it is supposed to be operating, and tells you to use it. So you need to get that jack open, and the goop out. The jack in mine was a small round thing, about one inch long, half in in diameter, screwed to the side of the internal over in from the outside of over, within the exterior case, on the right side. Inside the oven it looks like an earphone jack.Note - some of these solutions suggest doing some strange things, so watch out, and remember you might be playing with flammable stuff. Try each, and try the oven before moving on. For me I got to the last one until I was satisfied long term.1. Stick a toothpick in the jack hole, trying to clean it out or loosen up what is in there.2. Squirt some alcohol (91%) is the best, into the hole with an ear syringe or hypo syringe (available at a drug store). Give it 30 minutes to dry out.3. Squirt something stronger in. Like electrical contact cleaner, available at Radio Shack. Let it evaporate before you continue. You might try acetone, but I think you are getting a little dangerous here.4. Finally, after the above worked temporarily for me, I just cut to the chase and opened the oven case, found the jack casing, and clipped the wire. Of course, it will not work in the future. You could buy a new one, if you can find it on the net, but if I remember, I could not find one. You can probably get one at "Appliance Parts" store near you. The thing was that I had a dual oven and I did not care if the 2nd one did not work. And I was not going to pay someone $100 to fix it.Best of luck to you. Check my <a href="http://alohacreek.com">tech and travel website</a>.

sorry but you wont be able to remove the "stain" what has happend is the paint used by maytag has become discolored from the oven vent heat and the only way to correct it is to replace the panel. they are available but for about 80 bucks. you could try to paint the panel but it will do it again.

http://www.kitchenaid.com/custserv/service.jsp

Enter your model number and it will give a listing of the manuals available to you.

That code means that the oven is over heating.Replacing the temp. sensor should do the trick. The sensor is the rod that protrudes from the inside back wall of oven.Usually in the top left corner.

cool down

The price to replace is very high that is the problem with having a bunch of new age products there is no cheap way out ect ford motor part vs a Kia part f

On most ovens the fuse is down underneath your oven . If your oven has a drawer in it , than pull it out and the fuse should be under there in that area.

screw them back in, or get a little bit larger screws because those were not the ones that should have been in it to start with If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jason_4570d45317834dd3