The filtration cone just pulls out. That's why there's a looped piece of plastic on it at the base of it. The spring wire keeps it in place so that the door can be locked back on.
Check out Espares video on how to repair and replace cable on the SEBO X1. It is the same machine as the X4, only difference is a different motor and cosmetic differences. I rely on this video and a few of the others that this company have done on You Tube for SEBO repairs.
Don't forget to rate, thanks.
There's a mating plug and socket between the two halves of the assembly. When one of the body catches breaks, this plug is repeatedly rocked in & out, and the contacts wear away. It's available as a spare part: The bit on the brush housing is #5176, the female half is on the bag housing and comes with the internal cable #5217ER. These are the parts for the X1 and X1.1 - should be the same as the X4, but you'll have to check for yourself as I don't have X4 drawings. I usually find the female contacts can be squeezed together, and just replace the male half. If you're in the UK, Candor Services carry a lot of Sebo bits.
Of course, unless you can repair the catch to stop the rocking it'll happen again... The catch bar inside the bottom of the bag box is retained by some fairly weak plastic, but repairable. I use some of the low-temperature modelling plastic 'polymorph' to shape whatever has broken, by hand.
I repair a lot of these; hotel housekeepers just love banging them down steps, even when brand new....
It will take far longer for me on how to do this, but I did it myself using this fantastic espares video on You Tube. Carbon brushes are really easy to remove as are other areas. X1A, X1.1, X4 and X5 Extra are all the same model, save from cosmetic differences, different motor outputs and bigger floor head and brush roller on the X5.
The red lights should flash very quickly upon vacuum start-up (normal). If the motor is not turning on there is likely a problem with the motor or power supply board. The lights flashing does indicate that you are getting power to the PC control board. If your vacuum is under warranty, this would likely be covered. I have included a link to the parts list for your reference. http://sebo.us/pdfs/website_schematicsPDFs/AUTOMATIC%20X%20Schematics.pdf
First, pull out the hose, turn the unit on, check for an obstruction in the hose. (unclog and obstruction)
Separate the body from power nozzle. Check for obstruction in the air hole passage.
Pull and clean both filters in the unit. The inside white long carriage and the exhaust filter located above indicator panel. (nozzle body)
If this is not working. think about where and how dirt is carried or passes from the front floor nozzle or through the hose.Somewhere in the unit the it is clogged. The red light censers a full bag (we know that's not the issue) or an obstruction to the normal air flow.
Last Resort contact http://www.sebo.us/contact_us.aspx
In closing: I've been selling and repairing vacuums for over 30 years. Of all the 5 major brands that I sell. Sebo is by far the, best product on the market.
If its a X4 / X5, it may be time to replace the Roller Brush. The brush isn't that expensive. Also buy genuine. We well them for about $40.00 in out store.
First, what is the issue you are experiencing?
You should feel some resistance when turning the beater bar as it is being driven by a fairly tight belt and a motor. The most common issue with the beater bar would be a burning rubber smell. This would mean that the bar was not turning while is was on but in your case it is.
yes but you will need a new spring to put on it or you can leave it off it will not harm anything it just will stop the vacuum from standing on its own so yes
Bush is not turning and belt has snapped. Order replacement on Amazon. Loosen retainer screws on back of shell.. open remove belt and align and replace belt on bush bar and motor spindle. Done.
Check the main "kitchen roll" filter isn't clogged which is on the left hand side of the bag when the bin door is opened. There could be a clog, either behind the pick out metal grid below the filter roll, or the roll filter requires to be replaced. Can you add more info about the squeaking though? Is it a high pitched squeal all of the time or just intermittent and where it seems to be coming from - it could be excess air escaping from a pierced hose or a drive belt issue.
Check that there is no dirt clogging the main central wheel on the underside of the floor head. In any eventuality the main floor head hood will have to come off, via screws on the floor head base. By the right hand side , if looking down into the internals you'll notice two drive belts - check and see if these are intact. Directly next to this is the LED microchip board. Check that all the microchips are pushed in, as there is one for the height control that can usually pop out if the SEBO has been dropped or if the machine has been bumped off walls.
Sounds like the controller microchip has become disconnected. You'll need to flip the SEBO over on its side and remove the floor head - to do this, kneel on the floor and press the release button below the main front bin to unlock the floor head from the main bin area. Putting one knee on the floor head might help as the lock might be still. This pulls the floor head apart from the main bin and user handle. Once unlocked, flip the head over and undo the 4 large screws (2 at the back and 2 near the front on either side) Once the floor head has become loose, ease it off slowly and you should see the microchip board. With the bumper in front of you look to your right hand side to check that the microchip thread has not been pulled out. Check that all points are pushed in correctly 0- you should download a parts and manual diagram from SEBO UK or SEBO Germany (Sebo.de) in English. This will show you the microchip board and the microchip connectors. Once checked, reverse process, fit screws back on with the floor head cover underneath and re assemble before switching back on. Hope it helps!
Those machines measure the suction, check the normal spots for plugs, the hose, wand, in the base where the dirt goes 90 degrees. Unhook things and reconnect. Use your ears, the motor will change pitch if you connect to an area thats plugged. If it's just not plugged it may be a very full bag or dirty filters restricting the air flow. That light simply says when there's not enough air flow. If it's not plugged it's the filter I'd suspect. They're cloth like material so its hard to tell when they're too plugged. I'll include links to the correct filters for that machine. Tall Filterhttp://vacuummedic.com/product.php?id=223 Exhaust Filterhttp://vacuummedic.com/product.php?id=219 Happy Vacuuming!The Vac Dr.
Watt= volts x amps So what are you losing? Not much really. Should they replace it with the same motor? Possibly, but you got a free motor out of them. To be honest I think you're splitting hairs on this one. The difference in how much cleaning that sebo will do with one motor vs the other is beyond minimal. The aggressive brushes on that vacuum do 95% of the carpet cleaning and both motors will have no problem turning it at sufficient speed. As far as suction goes I'd be amazed if it was even a noticeable difference. That's an amazing vacuum you bought, I wouldn't worry about it and go on with life. Good LuckThe Vac Dr.
Did you break the end of the wand off possibly? It should just slide in and out but if you broke the tapered end off it wouldn't fit. I'll include a link to a page with pictures of what it should look like. Good Luck!The Vac Drhttp://vacuummedic.com/product.php?id=482
