20 Most Recent Gb Electrical 100 Amp GE Load Center Questions & Answers

Hi Casey, I'm an electrician and can help you with this problem.First, a disclaimer. Without the catalog number of the motor you have, or a wiring diagram for it, no one can tell you how to wire this motor with any certainty. With that said...Nearly all single speed 3 phase motors have 9 leads (numbered 1 thru 9) and can be wired for either "high" or "low" voltage. Most of the time, high is 480 volts and low is 208/240 volts. Given that you posted the amperage as "41-38 / 19", I am 99% confident that 41 amps is at 208 volts, 38 amps is at 240 volts and 19 amps is 480 volts. Further below is the way to wire unless the motor manufacturer or name plate indicates differently. You will need to determine the voltage of the appliance this is going to be installed into. You should be able to find this on a name plate of the appliance - but it may provide a dual voltage spec here, too. If this is the case, you will need to *carefully* measure the voltage with a meter, or find out the voltage of the electric panel that feeds the appliance.Once you have learned the incoming voltage, you will connect the motor as such when L1, L2 and L3 are the line voltage supply wires and wires 1 thru 9 match the numbers on the nine wires from the motor.208/240 or "Low" volts: Motor leads 4, 5 & 6 connected together and wirenut. Motor leads 1 & 7 to L1 and wirenut.; Motor leads 2 & 8 to L2 and and wirenut and lastly, Motor leads 3 & 9 to L3 and wirenut.480 or "High" volts:Motor lead 1 to L1 and wirenut, Motor lead 2 to L2 and wirenut, Motor lead 3 to L3 and wirenut, Motor leads 4 to 7 and wirenut, Motor leads 5 to 8 and wirenut and lastly, Motor leads 6 to 9 and wirenut.The motor should be operated briefly or "jogged" to determine the direction the motor turns. If the motor rotation needs to be changed, simply swap any two "L" wires (swap L1 and L2, or L1 and L3, or L2 and L3). Test once more to verify rotation and when correct close the wiring compartment and complete the installation. Swapping the L wires will likely be much quicker and easier to do at the magnetic contactor instead of the the motor's wiring compartment. Either location is acceptable.You should try to obtain the name plate data for this motor - if at all possible to to make sure of the voltage and wiring method. I hope this helps & good luck!

Your best bet would be to contact GE directly - or a nearby GE Wholesale Electric Supply distributor. GE, like all electrical panel manufacturers have made many variations of panels to comply with ever-changing code requirements. If it is very old, you may need to locate a used electrical part supplier - or change the entire panel.

Please verify the existing connections to determine if they fit the "High Voltage" configuration listed below. If they do (and they should), the "Low Voltage" configuration below is then correct for 240. Jaypug Low voltage ... L1---1--6--7 L2---2--4--8 L3---3--5--9 High voltage ... L1---1 4--7 L2---2 5--8 L3---3 6--9

Not sure, try posting on electricians forum:http://www.electriciantalk.com/f5/More resources:http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-install-3-phase-timer.htmlGeneh If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

Look in your Circuit Breaker Panel for a circuit breaker that is tripped. A tripped breaker is indicated by the handle being in the middle between the ON and OFF positions. Turn it OFF then to the ON position.It's also possible that you have "lost a leg". There are 2 hot wires and a neutral that come into the main panel. One of those hot wires have become "lost". While it is not difficult to determine which leg is lost and where, you should call a qualified electrician because of the hazards involved. It could be anything from the main breaker itself, the meter, the connection at the weather head, or even on the Power Company side.

Fuses can be checked visually but make provided a false "good" condition indication. A far more reliable method is with a continuity light or ohm meter.


A simple continuity tester.

Most people know what an ohm meter is but far fewer know how to use one properly. A much easier device to use for "good" or "no good" tests is a continuity light or tester like the one above. The key parts of a continuity tester are a internal battery, lamp and probes. On the model above, one probe is fixed to the end of the battery / lamp housing and the other it at the end of a flexible wire or "lead".

Like the ohm meter, the continuity tester has its own power source (battery), probes and is used on components "out of circuit". The major difference is that there is no meter to read - only a light that is off or on (or a value of dimness). This makes them well suited for testing fuses that have been removed from a panel - or even those sitting on top of the panel (or in the junk draw for that matter). Since a fuse is either good or bad, never in between the light will either be on or off.

Edison Base Fuses

Any fuse can be tested out of circuit. Common household types are Edison type S and type T. Both are shown below.

S & T type fuses along with the S Type Rejection Base that is not removable once installed.

Most fuses have 2 points of contact. Both of the S & T type fuses have a metal disc on the bottom center the other is on the side. Both the S & T type fuses are threaded and are twisted in and out of the panel fuse holder. The T type has the outer threads as this other connection, while the S type has two smaller metal points of contact safely tucked under the rim of the top of the fuse. Both of these contacts are connected together inside the fuse, so even though there are physically two contacts, electrically they are one. Testing is done by touching one probe to the bottom center disc and the other probe to the threaded side of the T type or one of the two metal contacts on the under side of the top of the S type fuse. If the light illuminates, it is good. If not it is open or bad.

Cartridge Fuses

The second fuse type often found in homes is the cartridge fuse. Cartridge rely on pressure to be held in place instead of threads like the S & T types.

Cartridge fuses have different physical characteristics to help prevent installing the wrong size.

There are just two contacts on cartridge fuses, too. They lie at opposite ends of the fuse body. Touch a probe from the tester to each end of the fuse. If the light illuminates, it is good. If not it is open or bad.

Be sure to check that the tester works by touching the probes together before testing. If the light does not illuminate, check the condition of the battery(s) and lamp. Replace as needed. If still not working, the probes have probably failed and the tool should be replaced.

I hope this helps and good luck.

This is most likely caused by an arcing main breaker, i.e., it needs removing, cleaning or replacing. Suggest calling an electrician.

Charlie