20 Most Recent KitchenAid K5SS Heavy Duty Commercial Stand Mixer - Page 2 Questions & Answers

I have repaired my same mixer a few times, first was replacing the plastic gear that is fairly common. Next I replaced the bearing and then the motor eventually, recently I replaced the main board. All these parts are fairly cheap and easy to replace. I have never had one smoke however so it is possible a wire could have rubbed enough to be shorting. Take the back cover off and inspect, its just the one screw on top and the main board is in there and see if any wires look shorted.

Shelly, usually this can be repaired without needing ANY parts! Its pretty simple but you do have to tear apart the mixer. Here is a link to the service manual: http://ep.yimg.com/ty/cdn/mendingshed/kitchenaidservicemanual.pdf 99% of the time you are dealing with a loose screw. So take the mixer apart, once you have done that you will find the speed control lever with knob has a screw that holds it in place and in contact with the spring. That screw can work loose and if not all the way tightened will allow your mixer to pop back into speed one. Simply tighten the screw and see if the mixer will operate correctly. If the speed lever is working through all 10 speeds correctly re-assemble the mixer. If it does not correct the problem you will want to buy the speed control lever kit. This will include a new speed control lever with knob, the spring, link and a gearbox gasket. KitchenAid Mixer Speed Control Lever Kit 4176230 The part number you will be looking for is 4176230, it is only about $7 plus shipping of $3.25. -Colleen @ Mending Shed

That would be incorrect. If the attachment is for a hobart kitchenaid mixer then it will fit all models of kitchenaid mixers including the brand new pro series because the attachment port and drive gear has not been changes since 1925 or 6 when it was first introduce by the Hobart company.

Try to push up while you turn the blade. Don't be afraiid to turn hard.

Here's a link to the mixer's Service Manual: http://www.kitchenaidparts.eu/documents/pdf/service-manual/classic-svc-manual-new-email-version.pdf

Disassembly and inspection is the only way to verify what it is. It sounds like you are correct. I have bought parts very reasonably on line and repaired our K/A mixer. The better sites ( I think I used appliancerepair.com) have exploded diagrams. If you are tearing into yours, these are invaluable, and when you get to the broken part, you'll have a name for it.

Best regards, --W/D--

On a bowl lift mixer there is a small metal clip on the back of the bowl support arm, it works in conjunction with a small "NIB" on the back of the bowl, when you put the bowl on the support arm there are two pins that the bowl rests on, on each side of the support arm, you place the bowl on the pins then press down the rear of the bowl untill the nib locks into the clip, if the bowl is not locking in place then one of four things are wrong, one of the pins are not on the support arm, the NIB on the back of the bowl has come off (it is spot welded on) or the clip at the yolk of the support arm has worn down or broke in half and there would be no locking action without it. The pins or the clip are inexpensive if it is the Nib on the back of the bowl you will need a new bowl. Hope that helps if not pleases get back with us so we can FiXya.

Take the four screws off that separate the top of the mixer from the stand,they are just above the handle that locks the bowls up when mixing.once you get the top off you will see where the wires connect to,simply disconnect the wires,remember which colors go where,because when you put the new cord on you will need to know where each color goes,it pretty straight forward,once cord is screwed in,put top of mixer back together and the screws are evenly tight.plug it in and mix away,if there's no power orbit sparks unplug right away and check wires ,to make sure you got in right spot and they are tighten down all the way.

The Brush holder caps / covers for the K5 series whether Hobart or Kitchenaid by Whirlpool (after 1986 when Whirlpool bought Kitchenaid from Hobart) will fit the K5-A they just wont be flush like the older Hobart caps. They come in black or white.

There are anynumber of reasons that the mixer won't work from mrchanical to electrical. We really need more information to give you the proper answer. What happened when you turned it on last time. Have you done anything to try and fix it already? Have you checked the outlet in your home to see if you have a tripped breaker? Please send us some additional information so that we can help you.

It sounds like the fuse gear has failed, you need to remove the planetary and the stand. Then split the gear cases by undoing all the screws going up through the bottom of the case, 9x from memory.

sorry to say but you have an inside gear problem, not catastrophic in and of itself, but it will require a full tear-down, the worm gear is either worn down or stripped, It is made of nylon and its supposed to wear out or give out if there is a problem. It appears that there is enough gear left to turn the paddle but as soon as you have any load on it well not enough tread left to keep spinning the paddle. Service center will cost from $150.00 to 200.00 depending on where your nearest KA service center is (that includes shipping) If you are good with mechanical stuff you can do it yourself for about $50.00 dollars. There are sites on the web that will show you how and your parts list from the kitchen Aid site will show you what you need to order off of ebay to repair it.

Depends what is wrong? they are actually very simple and parts are cheap.

Go to mendingshed.com. Look up Kitchenaid Mixer Parts. Near the top of the page locate their FREE Kitchenaid Service Manual in Adobe format.

http://dlbargainbox.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=9.

You can try taking it apart again, if that doesn't work send it to us for a 1yr warranty estimated cost $29-$39.99 3-4 day repair time

Check the four large screws at the back of the motor housing. They screw up thru the pedestal into the gear/motor housing. If they are loose that can allow the motor to tilt forwards. Check also the ones under the pedestal base, I have never seen those ones loose though and they would not cause your problem.

Purchase the plastic lift lever arm first. Remove motor from pedestal with the 4x large Philips head screws underneath the back of the motor housing. Note which way around the lever is on the shaft (take a photo is a safe way) Remove split pin with some pliers, don't wreck it as you will need to re-use it. Punch out the roll pin that locates the plastic lever to the shaft. Fit the new plastic arm CORRECTLY. Punch the roll pin back where it belongs, making sure it is evenly engaged as too far in or out will make it foul. Put the rod back thru the lever and split pin it again. Check operation before you put the motor back on.

Check that the nuts under the back cover at the sides have a bit of nip on them. It could be the armature polling on the fields. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN THOSE NUTS.