Top 20 KitchenAid KSM150PS Artisan Series Stand Mixer Questions & Answers

-Check under the unit to see how many volt it required to run. Some model require to run 220 volts. Good luck Mai

The head height adjustment screw is visible from the front when the head is raised. Looking from the front it is right at the back where the machine head hinges on thew pedestal. Clockwise to lower and anti clockwise to raise the head. You want it as low as possible without the flat paddle tinging on the bowl when the motor is running. Kitchen aid also make a paddle with rubber edges, called a scraper paddle. That one wipes against the bowl during operation.

Ideally you need to fix what's bent and that normally would involve splitting the cases to get at and repair or change the speed control lever. If you don't want to do that then removing the back cover and altering the adjustments and maybe bending the switch contacts may make it operate at both ends of the speed control.

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By pass the switch and put it on power strip and turn on/off with strip. Or just replace the ****** switch. Or just bypass switch and plug and unplug to turn on and off.

On one brush holder you push the clip on the end of the field wire between the bottom side of the square brush holder and the black plastic insert the holder is mounted into. On the other brush holder it pushes between the top side of the brass holder and the black insert. The bearing is pre lubricated but oil the armature shaft before sliding the rear bearing housing on.

Yes it is everything to do with the side springy things. Get a torch and look inside there is a blocker on one corner, it needs to be lined up with the missing corner on the carbon brush.

There is sod all difference except it comes with a glass bowl where the KSM150 is stainless steel bowl.. Motor is the same so not more powerful.

If you already know the board is broken the sensible solution is to replace the board at the same time keeping your eyes open for whatever may or may not have broken it to start with.

Make sure it's unplugged, remove and inspect the carbon brushes one at a time under those black screws on the side. They are keyed with one corner of the square ground off so will only go in properly one way so eyes open when you take them out. If they are less than 10mm long replace them. Next would be look under the back cover for a broken wire to the black square speed control plate. Broken wires are only likely to be one of the bottom 2 on either side. Any more testing is going to require a multimeter.

Occasionally the wire that goes to the carbon brush holder from the fields can pop out and no longer connect to the holder. You need to do your testing with a multi meter as anything more than what you have done is going to require splitting the gear cases to fix. There is sometimes a small pcb between the mains input and the speed control, that's between the cases screwed to the bottom part at the back.

Make sure it's unplugged, remove and inspect the carbon brushes one at a time under those black screws on the side. They are keyed with one corner of the square ground off so will only go in properly one way so eyes open when you take them out. If they are less than 10mm long replace them. Next would be look under the back cover for a broken wire to the black square speed control plate. Broken wires are only likely to be one of the bottom 2 on either side. Any more testing is going to require a multimeter.

On low speed roughly 1 rotation of the planetary per second. On high speed it should be the maximum speed that motor can run at, too fast to count that's for sure.

On the same side as the head lock lever at the back of the pedestal there is normally a small plastic part that the locking lever can hook under. It is held on by a single pop rivet. Maybe it has broken off. In the back of my mind I thought those things tipped back far enough that they were beyond the balance point and didn't want to fall back down anyway. Are you sure it is tipping all the way back?

It is highly unlikely to be lack of grease, most of them do leak a bit especially if not used very much. It is harmless as they only use food grade grease anyway. If you are not electrically competent don't mess about with it. Follow the power and make sure that power is finding its way to the motor first.

Tanya, it sounds like there might have been a short to ground, that is when a wire comes loose and touches the housing. So you will definitely have to rewire/fix the wiring in the mixer, there is a wiring diagram in the KitchenAid service manual (http://ep.yimg.com/ty/cdn/mendingshed/kitchenaidservicemanual.pdf) There may have also been damage to the speed control plate or phase board, either part would have burn marks on it in most cases. You can find replacement parts here: http://www.mendingshed.com/regmixerparts.html And as always if you have any questions give us a call, we have technicians that work on these every day at our repair shop that can help guide you in the repair. -Colleen @Mending Shed

Remove back cap, remove white wire and black wire from lower corner of speed control plate, both on same side on adjacent terminals. Remove the gasket thing at the back as well. Remove chrome drip ring from around planetary, knock pin out of planetary and remove the planetary. Flip upside down on a towel and remove pedestal by taking out hinge pin (1 locking screw from underneath inside pedestal) Remove all screws from bottom side of gearcase, 5 around planetaty, 2 in the middle and 2 at the back. You can now seaparate the gearcases to get to the speed control lever which is held on by 1 screw.

Where do you see the visible sparking?? There are two places in the mixer where this could / should happen. One is at the brushes where they meet the commutator on the armature of the motor. I don't think you can see that place during operation unless you have the rear cover off and know just how and where to look down the tube of the motor head. The second place is at the rear of the machine at the copper contacts on the speed control switch. You can see in the machine during operation at this location. You should not be overly concerned about this...unless...you are seeing constant arcing, then you need a new speed control switch as the resistance (amount of metal to conduct the electric current) between the contacts is worn down. This will cause a constant arc and will eventually wear down and then freeze closed and ...Walla! the mixer will not work any more and it can short out the rest of the electrical in the mixer. So; if you are seeing short intermittent sparks at the rear of the machine , well no worries, if it is constant then replace the speed control switch if it is anywhere else it is an electrical short and that can be very dangerous indeed. Tell us where you are seeing the sparks...and we can FixYa.

http://www.kitchenaidparts.eu/documents/pdf/service-manual/classic-svc-manual-new-email-version.pdf This is a full tear down manual for your mixer, you will need the new speed control switch, spring and bar about $12.00 and new grease and new gasket all together about $40.00 dollars for all parts. It will take about an hour and a half to two hours. OH!!! and a roll of paper towels, but better a handful of throw away towels works much better. I hope this helps you, please let us know so we can help FixYa.

I'm puzzled too. The many KitchenAid mixers which I have worked on have had other problems, but not this one. The link below will take you to a copy of the mixer Service Manual. While it does not specifically mention the Artisan, that model (as far as servicing goes, is the same). http://www.kitchenaidparts.eu/documents/pdf/service-manual/classic-svc-manual-new-email-version.pdf