20 Most Recent Cutler Hammer 100 Amp Main Breaker Resident Load Center Questions & Answers

That's a problem for the utility or a pro.

Am I to assume your dryer is electrical? If so, I'll guarentee it will draw MORE than 14 Amps if heating. Sorry, can't analyze your problem from here.

You can Google the catalog number for that breaker. You can also try to call local electrical contractors as one can usually find at least one contractor who has saved every old part that they have removed over the years. Also try ebay.
Unfortunately, even if you do find the correct breaker it will probably be very expensive :-(

only if your main wires (ie. line/feeder wires) are larger than a #2 awg wire size. #2 awg size wire is code and the right size wire for 100 amps. So, if you have larger wire coming into your service (eg. #1 THHN or larger) - then you can. Otherwise, you'll have to UP the wire size for the appropriate amperage. I hope this gives you some idea! Good Luck!

Tripping of the main breaker could be an indication of a short or an overload. To check for an overload you will need an amprobe to test the amperage load on the breaker. Turn all the secondary breakers off. Attach the amprobe by clamping it around one power wire. Turn the breakers on one at a time and check the reading of the amprobe. Most breakers will handle about 80 % of the breaker rating before tripping. If it trips below this point the breaker may be weak and will need to be replaced. If the amprobe pegs out at any time and the breaker trips the secondary breaker that was last turned on probably has a short in its wiring somewhere. Cuasing the breaker to trip. Underground wirng that has gone bad can sometimes take a while to trip the breakers so if there is any underground feeders it may be more difficult to track down a short. If the problem is an overload check both hot wire to see if the load is equal if the load is a lot higher on one leg than the other switching some circuits to the lower side may help. If the total load is just too high you may have to increase your service to a larger size. Hope -this helps Bob

Copy following links for 120/240 single phase and split phase wiring:http://waterheatertimer.org/See-inside-main-breaker-box.htmlhttp://waterheatertimer.org/images/Inside-Main-Breaker-Box-12.jpgGeneh If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

I don't mean to be flip, but if you have to ask, you really shouldn't be doing this yourself. You might need to look this up in the "code", but if you don't already know where to look it up, then you are crossing a big DIY danger line here. Good luck and be safe!

the BLACK wire is your hot wire that goes to the breaker, the WHITE wire is your neutral bar connector & yes your bare [brass color] wire is your ground only. always use insulated tools when making any electrical conections. be safe.

Turn the handle all the way to the OFF position, then turn it to ON. If it is tripping, then turn OFF all breakers, then turn ON the main. Turn ON each individual breaker until you find the one that is tripping the main. No offense, but you should consider calling a qualified electrician.

Re-post question with link to photo so we can see exactly what problem is and what you are trying to do.
http://www.fixya.com/support/r6568559-post_photograph_fixya_questions_answers

There seem to be several questions mingled in with those 2 questions.

1) Amps can go either way

2) Breakers trip when heat exceeds certain level. Heat is caused by amps.

3) You want to add a subpanel in garage.
I do not know the code in your area for installing a subpanel.
Your plan will work by connecting 6 gauge wire to main breaker, and new 60 amp breaker will protect wires between main box and subpanel.
Remember, wires going into main breaker cannot be turned off without pulling meter.
Some areas require license to pull meter.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-replace-circuit-breaker.html

4) To work around license and meter-pull, simply replace a 240V breaker in main panel with your new 60 amp breaker.
Then move breakers around to match new set-up.
New subpanel can accommodate two new 240V breakers and one new 120 Breaker
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-install-a-subpanel.html

5) 6 gauge wire is correct for 60 amp breaker.

6) I'm not sure what you mean by the box rails?

7) Do you need more amperage on main service?
This means adding a larger service panel with 150 Watt or 200 Watt main breaker.
Some areas require service upgrade when remodeling or adding circuits.

8) How to figure total amp draw at your house.
Add up total watts being used.
For example you have 1/2 Hp motor
754 watts per Hp
1/2 Hp = 377Watts
Volts x Amps = Watts
Amps = Watts divided by Volts.
377 Watts divided by 240Volts = 1.57 amps (plus a bit more amperage when motor starts)
40 watt light bulb divided by 120Volts = .33 amps
Double oven has label located inside door that shows upper and lower wattage.
Dishwasher, dryer, big screen TV, satellite receiver all have labels that show wattage.
Water heater has label that shows wattage of each element.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Figure-Volts-Amps-Watts-for-water-heater.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/See-inside-main-breaker-box.html

Add a comment for more help

It sounds like you have a main lug only panel. They are for sub panels where a main breaker isn't needed. I would return it and get the right one.

Hi,
You can install anything, up to a 125 amp. Just do not go any higher amperage then that. Anything lower will work just fine but will limit the current to the amount of the size of the breaker.

heatman101

I answer questions for free
I specialize and timers and electrical devices
Looking up your breaker at Eaton, I found the chart that shows below:
Other than the chart, I do not know the specifics of your breaker.
You can add a comment, and I can help you with your wiring project.
Another good source of information about specifics are your local Graybar electric supply house, or any local supplier that specializes in electric wiring.
Having a local electrician stop by and look at your project for a fee might be a good investment long term because that person knows local codes and restrictions.

http://www.eaton.com/EatonCom/Markets/Electrical/Products/ResidentialProducts/CircuitBreakers/CHStyle34-inchBreakers/index.htm?ssSourceNodeId=4522&ssSourceSiteId=EatonCom


The #1 Data Table from manual shows CU/AL which is copper/aluminum
2/0 wire fits CH145 CH245 CH150S breakers

See the manual
http://waterheatertimer.org/pdf/SA00400006E.pdf

You haven't indicated the part number for your panel, but I'm assuming that since you say the inoperable breakers are "opposite" the main, that you have the type of panel where the main is at the top of one side of the panel. If this is the case, usually the opposite spaces have no place on the buss for breakers to attach. In that case these are not spaces for breakers. The panel legend on the door usually will indicate thes, but sometimes the cover is the same for a main lug or a main breaker panel.

This is not a space made to accept a circuit breaker

Ok what is the problem?

pull out the old one, push in the new one.. if it has bolts unbolt then do that

Pretty sure that ITE is only compatible with seimens.