If it is taking longer to heat things than normal then it would appear the Magnetron to starting to wear out, this is a normal sign of inefficient power from the magnetron & would need to be replaced.
That's in your owner's manual.If for some reason you don't still have yours, you can find it online free here, along with the relevant parts lists.You can order parts and accessories here.We're happy to help you with free
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You can
download Kitchenaid, Whirlpool, and Maytag owner's manuals and installation
instructions here.You can find
helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full
model number here.
We're
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see this causes and fix it. Read your instr.manual for codes. God bless youF2---Touch Panel Failure Check connections, Replace ControlF2--Shorted thermal sensor, will occur if a shorted thermal sensor is
detected continuously over 5 seconds on convection, combination or roast
cooking. Check oven temperature sensor for continuity. Replace if zero
or infinite ohms.
i suggest you go to wal mart and purchase another one after you check your power outlet with another item before you do replace it or try plugging it in else wjere if none of the suggested things i have said works, i suspect its dead, i know of no one who repairs the things,, due to there usually throw away cheap made to start with,, good luck..
Most likely the switch that senses whether or not the door is closed is either out of adjustment, meaning when the door closes it doesn't physically make the switch contacts close, or the switch is defective. If you can physically find the switch you can "trick" it by holding it closed with a piece of tape. If that works then the switch is simply out of adjustment. If that doesn't work then you can short together the two wires going to the switch which simulates the closed internal contacts of the switch. If that works your switch has failed. If neither works then you may have a broken switch wire or solder joint where the switch inputs it's signal to a circuit board. If it is a bad circuit board you may spend the same amout of money replacing the board as you would buying a new microwave. Please be careful with theses test procedures and remember dealing with electricity can be a shocking experience! Good luck.
That is extremely dangerous, from your decription something went wrong with the keypad control board and possibily one of the door switches malfunctioned and the fact the magnetron was arcing did not trigger the fail safe systems indicates a design flaw in the system. I would demand a brand new microwave with a model that has a great safety record.
This is a issue with the way the water is moving & or heating in the unit. There should be a tech mini manual behind the motor kick panel. The manual describs the failure and it's correction. Depending the the model year & run / revision code, this error could be caused by low water level, a bad thermistor, the control board not sensing inputs, bad heater or door interlock switch issues. attached is a couple of help sheets. They are general in scope.
Hello there and welcome to fixya This is a fairly common issue with microwaves Normally the issue that you are dealing with is that the dor switch has went bad or the electrical wiring may be getting loose so what i would do is first remove the outer shell of the microwavethen get to the door switch and find the wires that are going from it to the connection poing then make a note of where the wires are connected at then remove the wires and test using ohm meter set at the lowest setting you should be getting a ol reading when the door is open then shut the door and you should show a little bit of continuity when the door is shut something like 020 or something like that however if it does not move or the numbers are really high then it should be replaced ok I have posted a link here for you to follow on how to test it and several other parts ok http://www.ApplianceRepairLesson.com
You can find
helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full
model number here.
This model is inverter-based, so it does not use the larger, exposed capacitor that transformer-based models do. It uses one or more small capacitors hidden on the inverter board.As long as the high voltage section was not energized within about a half-hour of disassembly, and one does not contact the high voltage connections, there's really no need to discharge high voltage capacitors.They have built-in bleeder resistors that bleed off the charge in seconds. But there is that one in a zillion chance the resistor inside is defective, etc.
The shock from stored DC high voltage isn't what hurts you. What hurts is getting sliced up by the sharp metal chassis when you reflexively pull back your hand after the shock.I'm also curious as to what problem you're troubleshooting.We're
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If there is no power and you have checked the wall receptical where it plugs in, then it has blown a fuse inside the microwave oven. Because there are lethal voltages that will cause death I suggest a qualified repairman to assess the item.
Hello, the clicking sound is as a result of bulged capacitor. One or more capacitors on the power supply board inside the unit is bulged, that's why you are hearing the clicking sound. Have the power supply board check and the cause of the porblem will be revealed. Good luck.
It is likely a bad door switch or mount. See the help file here.On some models, the door switches, fuses, and TCOs / thermal cutouts / thermostats must be checked, too. See photo below.There
should be a "mini-manual" (tech sheet) hidden inside the unit
- behind the
back, behind the control panel, or hidden on the left side behind the grille - which is
very helpful when troubleshooting, testing, and locating
components.You can find
helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full
model number from the tag on the oven here.We'rehappy
to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating
of our answer.
The sensor errors are probably just from opening the door and interrupting the sensor cook cycle.By the way, you should always press "Stop" before opening the door of a running microwave. Otherwise, the door switches will prematurely fail.I would first check the door switches and their mounts. See this help file.You can usually find
helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full
model number here.There
should be a "mini-manual" (tech sheet) hidden inside the unit
behind the
control panel or hidden on the left side behind the grille, which is
very helpful when troubleshooting, testing, and locating
components.You can also download manuals, installations info, and parts lists here.
We'rehappy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your
thoughtful rating of our answer.
Normally you have to
separate the door panels (as shown in the attached photo)
and then you'll see the previously hidden screw(s) you need to remove.On some models the handle needs to be turned gently.
Or you can watch a YouTube video (not a video I
made) that demonstrates how it's done.In some cases, you then
have to gently rotate the handle to unlock it.You can find
helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full
model number here.We'rehappy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful
rating of our answer.
You can also download manuals, installations info, and parts lists here.
We're
happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your
thoughtful rating of our answer.
