Adjust the door switch mounting strip as adjustment is provided if not o.k check door switch connector on the PCB assembly for loose contact or soldering.
Here's a diagram of the door. On the inside of the door is the frame, #2. This can be removed very carefully with a small flat bladed screwdriver and work slowly around. The frame is held in place with plastic tabs on frame. Once frame is removed, you should see the two screws that hold the handle in place. Good Luck!
I'm sorry to say that it's most likely the magnetron that's shorted out (the high voltage device that produces microwaves). It's usually the case with ovens this old that a compatible replacement won't be available.
There's also the fact that your oven is likely way past it's 'end-of-life' date so even if you could find a replacement, other components will begin to fail as more time passes.
In short, save yourself the money, time, and frustration with a new unit. Good luck!
Hello, Cher -The microwave touch pad may need to be replaced.Since you have experienced the problem for "some years," have you contacted a business in your area which is authorized to repair KitchenAid microwave ovens? If not, I suggest you do so, if you wish to have the problem properly diagnosed and fixed.Best wishes.
It sounds like the door spring had broken. Take the covers off and it should be apparent what had happened. It may be a part you can get at the hardware store or it may be an OEM part.
have it inspectied my a real company . if it was wired wrong, such as the oven was 220 volts and the microwave was 110 volt they tried to split the 220 down to 110 and wired it wrong. my question is was there a oven there before, if not did they run new wires for that oven . 220 volt needs 4 wires to run it , to be right. It sounds like 220 was put to the microwave.
If the magnetron is still operating when off, needless to say , its pretty dangerous. The door lock unit usually has at least 3 microswitches to ensure that the door is closed and ready to operate. 1 of the switches is a safety switch which will cause a dead short if the door is forced open or something goes wrong with the door not closing correctly. This will "blow" the internal fuse in the machine. If the magnetron keeps going, its possible one of these switches have failed or there is an electronic fault causing power to the magnetron in the off position although, I would strongly feel this would be unlikely. These machines are made with a lot of safety devices.
Hello Jimmy Hester,
This could be a GREAT TIME to consider
calling in a PROFESSIONAL...
They walk in... pull out the wall plug... pull
out the PC board... Poke the soldering iron at a
BAD (cold solder) joint... BINGO ... all is well.
Mishandling a CIRCUIT BOARD could change
a minor issue to a MAJOR FAILURE... EASY.
There are a couple of REALLY great reasons these
appliances say ...
"NO USER SERVICEABLE PARTS INSIDE"
- Primary: novices & amateurs (where EVERYBODY
real actually started) need to be trained to wear
STATIC Protection... $6 (for a good one, see below).
A simple wrist strap. Electro-STATIC spark you might
not even feel is enough to DESTROY any semiconductor
Amazon com Rosewill ESD Anti Static Wrist Strap Components RTK 002 Black...
Could also be a simple PC Board "re-seat"...
if it is done with the POWER ON... the oven gets
ruined.
You really ought consider adding in the
MAKE & MODEL.. You will be rewarded with
much better than scary stories...
If you do manage to get a wrist band... actually
remove POWER... & get that control board (PC)
out... Look at the solder side... Check for soot or
obvious cracks.
Use a really bright light and a jewelers loop.
We can guide you with a solder sucker... good iron,
soldering wick... goggles... burn proof flooring, clothes
and furniture...
But as you start adding up all the costs... and the remote
chance of success...
Would it NOT BE EASIER... to look up a 5 STAR repair
shop... (not my normal recommendation)
I'm just saying... Soldering is not as EASY as it looks.
Carnac the Magnificent
IRON
Weller W60P3 60Watts 120V Controlled Output Soldering Iron With 3 Wire...
Sucker (braided copper wick)
https://www.amazon.com/Puraid-CP-2015-Desoldering-Soldering-Accessory/dp/B01MRGSLIS/ref=sr_1_4_s_it?s=hpc&ie=UTF8&qid=1513915911&sr=1-4&keywords=desoldering+tools
Vacuum sucker
Amazon com Ingdy TM 1pc Solder Sucker Desoldering Pump Tool Removal Vacuum...
I assume the display is hard to see but otherwise the unit function correctly? I'm going to gear my answer to this issue. If everything on unit functions but just can't see clock and temp. settings, you have a bad display. That's gonna be part #2. I'm not how to upload video but go to youtube and type in Kitchenaid slide in electric control replacement. The top video should give you a good idea on how to change display board out. Good Luck
With the cover off, disconnect the primary of the power transformer. Now, with a good fuse try again. If the fuse blows again check the three microswitches in the latch assembly. If the fuse doesn't blow than the magnetron or diode are shorted.
the Magnetron has gone (yes it's really called that) that's the part of the microwave that emits radio waves and cooks your food... 30 years ago when this tech (Microwave cooking) was new and expensive it was cheaper to replace that part than buy new... now it's the other way around... at least you still have a working electric convection oven.
it's very rare that a Magnetron go bad, so look for an old one of the same model and use that one for parts if it's that loved.
I am a bit late on this question, but just ended up in a rabbit hole of unanswered Kitchenaid questions
The self cleaning features only serves to keep manufacturers in steady sales of parts. Quite simply the oven can only take those temperatures a few times until they break. The heat burns out elements, damages fans, door locks and worst of all damages control boards which are not far enough from the heat source. You problem sounds like the walls of the oven have buckled in the heat so the racks no longer fit. Too late now, but you should have taken Kitchenaid to court, the oven was not fit for purpose under the description they used to sell it to you.
Never use the self cleaning feature as stated here
https://www.google.com/search?q=self-cleaning+oven+temperature
Never Ever use the self clean feature. We see damage here every couple of weeks. The worst was a burned control board on an oven that all parts were obsolete, so the self clean cost a thousand bucks!
Self-cleaning ovens bring the heat so you don't have to spend hours scrubbing. Traditional self-cleaning cycles heat the oven between 800°F and 900°F, helping turn soil and spills to a powdery ash you can then wipe away. They utilize only heat-no chemicals-and are built to withstand high temperatures. (Says Maytag who love selling elements, door locks and other parts),
For the KitchenAid microwave, model:
KHMS2050SSS2
I found that i did not have to remove the screw. what i did was loosen the screw as much as it would go before getting tight again.(hard to screw) then on the bottom end of the door hinge (lying on its side) i pryed the bottom hinge off its mount. (with flat head screwdriver) from there i was able to get at the screws to separate the black surrounding stuff from the outside door... then finally i could get inside to get at the door panel controls. I noticed a whole bunch of condensation and on the back of the touch panel (electrical board).. i will replace that part as I think that is the culprit as to why the keys get pressed randomly, beeping randomly and wonkiness :)
You either have an intermittent or defective door switch, or the latch assembly is not activating the switches properly. If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/david_29ad5d1dd86564b0