Top 20 KitchenAid KEMC377K Convection / Microwave Oven Questions & Answers


The installation guide for KEMS377D is from Whirlpool for KBMC140. Follow the instruction how to remove the microwave from the cabinet.

KitchenAid... | 229 views | 0 helpful votes


There are electrolytic filter capacitors on the control board which, due to age, can weaken, causing some bizarre results.

We've repaired several of these boards successfully, upgrading the capacitors and relays at the same time. It runs $39.95 and comes with a one-year guarantee.

They're the same as the Whirlpool RM286- and RM288-type models.

At our Web site, we have a video available showing how to remove a typical over the range control panel assembly in under 5 minutes.

You can also find helpful exploded views here.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

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KitchenAid... | 113 views | 0 helpful votes


Having noise means some obstruction near the rotating tray or its motor need some lubricant. Has for no cook but control seems working, the magnetron and its fuses is the culprit because it doesn't anymore produce heat to cook food.
I hope that advice help you.

KitchenAid... | 290 views | 0 helpful votes


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KitchenAid... | 55 views | 1 helpful votes


This is a very complex repair, and should only be done by a technician that has worked on these a lot. The heating problem can be wiring, magnetron, safety thermostats, high voltage diode, transformer, capacitor, or control board. Out of all the brands and models we work on this is one of the toughest to work on because of the amount of labor you have to put into it, to get into the unit to diagnose this type of problem. I would recommend that you use one of whirlpools warrantee companies, as they will probably have the most experience with this model. Good Luck, Appliance Specialists.

KitchenAid... | 67 views | 0 helpful votes


If the switches are good (test & order info here), and it's a Kitchenaid / Whirlpool of recent design (by L.G.) then they have more than one fuse inside.

There will be a fuse associated with the door circuit which will cause this problem, but not render the oven "dead".

There should be a "mini-manual" (tech sheet) hidden inside the unit behind the control panel or hidden on the left side behind the grille, which is very helpful when troubleshooting, testing, and locating components.

mini_manual_behind_grille_small.jpg33eec4f.jpg

At our Web site, we have a video available showing how to remove a typical over the range control panel assembly in under 5 minutes.

If you don't find your mini-manual, or if you want to look at it before removing the controller, you can download it here (just enter your model number).
You can find links to helpful exploded view diagrams and part ordering help here.

I recommend that you bookmark that link to your favorites.We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

KitchenAid... | 140 views | 1 helpful votes


Hi,
Here is a tip that will help you to figure out what is wrong with yourMicrowave Oven....

Microwave Oven Basic Troubleshooting Tips

heatman101

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KitchenAid... | 2,541 views | 4 helpful votes


You can download owner's manuals and installation instructions for several brands (including Amana, Jenn-Air, Kitchenaid, Litton, Maytag, Roper, Tappan, Thermador and Whirlpool) here.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

KitchenAid... | 312 views | 0 helpful votes


That model number does not look right. Please check the tag on or in the unit again.

You can find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts here.

There should be a "mini-manual" (tech sheet) hidden inside the unit behind the control panel or hidden on the left side behind the grille, which is very helpful when troubleshooting, testing, and locating components.

dee77f7.jpg

At our Web site, we have a video available showing how to remove a typical over the range control panel assembly in under 5 minutes.

If you don't find yours, or if you want to look at it without disassembling the oven, you should be able to download it here.

The door springs must be replaced in pairs to keep the wear even.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

KitchenAid... | 379 views | 0 helpful votes


hi! humming are cause of many things, either you have a defective magnetron, leaky capacitor, or the hv transformer. but most likely the magnetron is the culprit.

KitchenAid... | 345 views | 0 helpful votes


there is normally 2 swicth in the door actuater one may be def or sticking check them out

KitchenAid... | 269 views | 0 helpful votes


is it a stove or dishwasher

KitchenAid... | 101 views | 0 helpful votes


Quite often this is due to grease or food particles stuck somewhere in the cavity of the oven or stuck on or behind the waveguide cover.

It may also be in the area of the turntable support, coupler, or motor.

The waveguide cover (also called a spatter shield) is usually about the size of a playing card and often held in place by a plastic rivet.

In some models it is a larger stirrer cover type made of thicker plastic in the ceiling of the oven.

It can be fragile, and the metal edges of the oven behind it can be sharp, so be careful!

The cover and the metal behind it should be cleaned with a mild, non-ammonia cleaner.

If the cavity metal of the oven is chipped or charred, it will have to be sanded smooth and clean and dried thoroughly.

Then you can apply some high-temperature appliance paint, available from places like Wal-Mart, Lowe's or Builder's Square.

If your waveguide cover is burned, it will need to be replaced. It provides important protection for the magnetron.

For many brands, you can find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number from the tag on the oven here.

If you need further help, please please reply back with your brand and model number so we can help you.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

KitchenAid... | 156 views | 0 helpful votes


http://www.applianceaid.com/repair-help.html

 for complete step by step guide for ur microvave parts and fitting procedure

KitchenAid... | 407 views | 0 helpful votes


See answer here http://www.fixya.com/support/t265705-microwave_door

in different thread.. Basically have to pry plastic trim ring off inside of door with putty knife (careful, it cracks easily) to get to screws on bottom of door. See second pic. Top screws are easily accessible from inside of door. Spring can easily be replaced by hand once you get adequate access. You'll need a fairly stubby right angle screwdriver (I used a cut-down #2 Phillips bit and small Vice-Grips as a make-do) to get to the screws. Also need Torx (T10, I think) to detach the shock absorber doodads from the door where they attach above the hinges. If you're just starting to take the door apart, be careful when you take out the top 2 screws on the inside-- they hold the inside plastic piece on , but they also hold the whole outer stainless/ glass/ handle piece on. It just slips in at the bottom, so be ready to slide it out when you take these screws out.fea33aa.pngc391898.jpg

KitchenAid... | 496 views | 0 helpful votes


told this rip off site to go to hell

KitchenAid... | 356 views | 0 helpful votes


I would recommend changing the diodes as well. This will usually take care of the problem.

KitchenAid... | 1,587 views | 3 helpful votes


This is usually caused by either a bad door switch, a loose door switch mount (which are pretty simple problems to fix) or occasionally a problem on the control panel.

Even though a door switch clicks, it may still be bad inside. Its continuity must be checked.

Door switch or mount trouble can be caused by slamming the door or by opening the door while it's cooking without hitting the Stop pad first.

There are plastic mounts inside the microwave which hold the door switches and onto which the door latches lock when you close the door.

The screws on these mounts may be loose. If they get too loose, the switches will not be activated properly.

Sometimes it's a broken tab on the switch holder, allowing the switch to rotate just out of position. This tab can be hard to see, since it is under the bottom edge of the switch.

One test that sometimes helps is to gently lift up (and/or push down) on the door or handle as you try to start it. If it works or tries to work, then it's a door switch mount or door alignment issue.

If you or someone you know decide to look into it, we have critical information on safety, disassembly and door switches at our site, and our link is at our listing here on FixYa:.

You can find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number here.

There may also be a "mini-manual" hidden inside the unit behind the control panel or hidden on the left side behind the grille, which is very helpful when troubleshooting & testing.

If you only need a switch, you can order one from us for $5 postpaid.

If you think the problem is on the control panel, we repair these nationwide by mail for $39.95 postpaid in most cases.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

KitchenAid... | 3,502 views | 7 helpful votes


This is usually caused by either a bad door switch, a loose door switch mount, or occasionally a problem on the control panel.

If the door switch is not properly activated when the door is closed, the controller thinks the door is not shut and it will not start.

Even though a door switch clicks, it may still be bad inside. Its continuity must be checked.

Door switch or mount trouble can be caused by slamming the door or by opening the door while it's cooking without hitting the Stop pad first.

There are plastic mounts inside the microwave which hold the door switches and onto which the door latches lock when you close the door.

The screws on these mounts may be loose. If they get too loose, the switches will not be activated properly.

Sometimes it's a broken tab on the switch holder, allowing the switch to rotate just out of position. This tab can be hard to see, since it is under the bottom edge of the switch.

One test that sometimes helps is to gently lift up (and/or push down) on the door or handle as you try to start it. If it works or tries to work, then it's a door switch mount or door alignment issue.

If you or someone you know decide to look into it, we have critical information on safety, disassembly and door switches at our site, and our link is at our listing here on FixYa:.

You can find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number here.

There may also be a "mini-manual" hidden inside the unit behind the control panel or hidden on the left side behind the grille, which is very helpful when troubleshooting & testing.

If you only need a switch, you can order one from us for $5 postpaid.

If you think the problem is on the control panel, we repair these nationwide by mail for $39.95 postpaid in most cases.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

KitchenAid... | 111 views | 0 helpful votes

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