20 Most Recent KitchenAid KEMC377K Convection / Microwave Oven - Page 2 Questions & Answers

there is normally 2 swicth in the door actuater one may be def or sticking check them out

is it a stove or dishwasher

Quite often this is due to grease or food particles stuck somewhere in the cavity of the oven or stuck on or behind the waveguide cover.

It may also be in the area of the turntable support, coupler, or motor.

The waveguide cover (also called a spatter shield) is usually about the size of a playing card and often held in place by a plastic rivet.

In some models it is a larger stirrer cover type made of thicker plastic in the ceiling of the oven.

It can be fragile, and the metal edges of the oven behind it can be sharp, so be careful!

The cover and the metal behind it should be cleaned with a mild, non-ammonia cleaner.

If the cavity metal of the oven is chipped or charred, it will have to be sanded smooth and clean and dried thoroughly.

Then you can apply some high-temperature appliance paint, available from places like Wal-Mart, Lowe's or Builder's Square.

If your waveguide cover is burned, it will need to be replaced. It provides important protection for the magnetron.

For many brands, you can find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number from the tag on the oven here.

If you need further help, please please reply back with your brand and model number so we can help you.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

See answer here http://www.fixya.com/support/t265705-microwave_door

in different thread.. Basically have to pry plastic trim ring off inside of door with putty knife (careful, it cracks easily) to get to screws on bottom of door. See second pic. Top screws are easily accessible from inside of door. Spring can easily be replaced by hand once you get adequate access. You'll need a fairly stubby right angle screwdriver (I used a cut-down #2 Phillips bit and small Vice-Grips as a make-do) to get to the screws. Also need Torx (T10, I think) to detach the shock absorber doodads from the door where they attach above the hinges. If you're just starting to take the door apart, be careful when you take out the top 2 screws on the inside-- they hold the inside plastic piece on , but they also hold the whole outer stainless/ glass/ handle piece on. It just slips in at the bottom, so be ready to slide it out when you take these screws out.

told this rip off site to go to hell

That would be the service manual. You could contact Kichenaid for that, but I doubt the manual's necessary just yet:
http://www.kitchenaid.com/custserv/service.jsp

You can find helpful exploded views of this model here: http://tinyurl.com/gv383

Unless you're replacing the entire door for some reason (what an expense!) then it's not recommended that you remove the door. If so, you'll have to carefully mark the hinges and the door to be sure you get it back in exact alignment. Otherwise, you'll have a chance of microwave leakage.

Instead, the door panels should be taken apart and then you can remove only the panels and parts that are needed.

In most cases, there is a choke cover on the inside surface that needs to be carefully pried apart, and that will allow access to the hidden screws, as the sample drawing shows.

Usually the exploded view is all that's needed, but if you nned more help, the service manual is the next step.

This is usually caused by either a bad door switch, a loose door switch mount (which are pretty simple problems to fix) or occasionally a problem on the control panel.

Even though a door switch clicks, it may still be bad inside. Its continuity must be checked.

Door switch or mount trouble can be caused by slamming the door or by opening the door while it's cooking without hitting the Stop pad first.

There are plastic mounts inside the microwave which hold the door switches and onto which the door latches lock when you close the door.

The screws on these mounts may be loose. If they get too loose, the switches will not be activated properly.

Sometimes it's a broken tab on the switch holder, allowing the switch to rotate just out of position. This tab can be hard to see, since it is under the bottom edge of the switch.

One test that sometimes helps is to gently lift up (and/or push down) on the door or handle as you try to start it. If it works or tries to work, then it's a door switch mount or door alignment issue.

If you or someone you know decide to look into it, we have critical information on safety, disassembly and door switches at our site, and our link is at our listing here on FixYa:.

You can find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number here.

There may also be a "mini-manual" hidden inside the unit behind the control panel or hidden on the left side behind the grille, which is very helpful when troubleshooting & testing.

If you only need a switch, you can order one from us for $5 postpaid.

If you think the problem is on the control panel, we repair these nationwide by mail for $39.95 postpaid in most cases.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

I would recommend changing the diodes as well. This will usually take care of the problem.

This is usually caused by either a bad door switch, a loose door switch mount, or occasionally a problem on the control panel.

If the door switch is not properly activated when the door is closed, the controller thinks the door is not shut and it will not start.

Even though a door switch clicks, it may still be bad inside. Its continuity must be checked.

Door switch or mount trouble can be caused by slamming the door or by opening the door while it's cooking without hitting the Stop pad first.

There are plastic mounts inside the microwave which hold the door switches and onto which the door latches lock when you close the door.

The screws on these mounts may be loose. If they get too loose, the switches will not be activated properly.

Sometimes it's a broken tab on the switch holder, allowing the switch to rotate just out of position. This tab can be hard to see, since it is under the bottom edge of the switch.

One test that sometimes helps is to gently lift up (and/or push down) on the door or handle as you try to start it. If it works or tries to work, then it's a door switch mount or door alignment issue.

If you or someone you know decide to look into it, we have critical information on safety, disassembly and door switches at our site, and our link is at our listing here on FixYa:.

You can find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number here.

There may also be a "mini-manual" hidden inside the unit behind the control panel or hidden on the left side behind the grille, which is very helpful when troubleshooting & testing.

If you only need a switch, you can order one from us for $5 postpaid.

If you think the problem is on the control panel, we repair these nationwide by mail for $39.95 postpaid in most cases.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

Doors for microwave ovens are usually replaced as a complete item. I would ask the person who forgot to fix the door latches properly back to fix it properly. If some of the clips were snapped off when removing the door panel, the panel must be replaced or it will fall out again.

I am a bit late on this question, but just ended up in a rabbit hole of unanswered Kitchenaid questions The self cleaning features only serves to keep manufacturers in steady sales of parts. Quite simply the oven can only take those temperatures a few times until they break. The heat burns out elements, damages fans, door locks and worst of all damages control boards which are not far enough from the heat source. You problem sounds like the walls of the oven have buckled in the heat so the racks no longer fit. Too late now, but you should have taken Kitchenaid to court, the oven was not fit for purpose under the description they used to sell it to you. Never use the self cleaning feature as stated here https://www.google.com/search?q=self-cleaning+oven+temperature Never Ever use the self clean feature. We see damage here every couple of weeks. The worst was a burned control board on an oven that all parts were obsolete, so the self clean cost a thousand bucks! Self-cleaning ovens bring the heat so you don't have to spend hours scrubbing. Traditional self-cleaning cycles heat the oven between 800°F and 900°F, helping turn soil and spills to a powdery ash you can then wipe away. They utilize only heat-no chemicals-and are built to withstand high temperatures. (Says Maytag who love selling elements, door locks and other parts),

Why You should Never Run A Self Clean Oven Cycle & ...

General Appliance Servicehttps://www.generalappliancesvc.com > why-you-shou... Jan 29, 2020 - A self-cleaning oven is a feature on many modern ovens that burns off cooking spills and splatters with an extremely high temperature (932 F° or ...

Self-cleaning oven

Wikipediahttps://en.wikipedia.org > wiki > Self-cleaning_oven A self-cleaning or pyrolytic oven is an oven which uses high temperature (approximately 932 °F (500 °C)) to burn off leftovers from baking, without the use ... ‎Pyrolytic process · ‎Alternative technologies · ‎Catalytic cleaning

Self-Cleaning Oven: 6 Reasons to Stop Using Feature ...

FIX Appliances CAhttps://fixappliances.ca > 4-reasons-stop-using-self-cle... A self-cleaning oven is a feature on many modern ovens that burns off cooking spills and splatters at an extremely high temperature (932 F° or 500 C°) to aid in ... ‎How Self-Cleaning Ovens Work · ‎Major Parts Damage ..

Yes it should do, but they are very dangerous to work on. https://www.google.com/search?q=Kitchenaid+microwave+f4+error https://www.fixya.com/support/r29874712-repairing_microwave_ovens ..

Open the control panel using this diagram Official KitchenAid KEMC377KSS05 wall oven/microwave combo parts ' Sears PartsDirect Check the cables and connectors. If Ok then problem is in cuicuit board.

There is a huge capacitor inside microwaves, and that description sounds like it is starting to fail. There are smaller capacitors as well. It won't be a door switch, they work or they don't. I had two Panasonic Commercial microwaves in a pub kitchen, one plain and one was a combination machine and both had drop down doors.

I'm not familiar with that particular model, but with many of their models (and many other manufacturer models as well), unfortunately the beep cannot be turned off.

Question moved from Cars and Trucks category. No wiring schematic exists, but this does show there is an internal fuse. https://www.repairclinic.com/ProductDetail/2145587 Service manuals aren't generally available, because the insides are so dangerous! Keep away from the step up transformer and capacitor with 120,000 volts stored in it. https://www.google.com/search?q=kitchenaid+kmhs120ess+service+manual& https://www.google.com/search?q=kitchenaid+kmhs120ess+wiring+diagram&rlz=1C1QJDB_enCA643CA644&sxsrf=APq-WBu2IViisg_YzIUbx0IaRs0iQu4SNw:1648409430308&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwiDuqbUg-f2AhUaac0KHd1pAb8Q_AUoAnoECAEQBA&biw=1920&bih=937&dpr=1 ..

It's a guess, but something mis-connected on that new board. They usually have a number of edge connectors and you have two on the wrong pins. A guess never the less.

There is a Service Manual here Paul. https://www.allrepairmanuals.com/kitchenaid-electric-oven.htm?model_number=KEMC308KSS0+&manual_type=SERVICE ..

sounds like Touch pad/Keypad/Membrane Switch is bad or control panel is bad. You can go online and using your model number search for parts, or have it repaired. If your order parts do you have the skill, knowledge and tools to do job? You could end up throwing parts at it. Personally I would weigh the cost of repair plus the age of unit versus a new one.

You can find helpful Kitchenaid parts diagrams and get parts at affordable prices for most models from The Pros by entering your model number here:
http://tinyurl.com/gv383