KitchenAid KCMS145J Microwave Oven - Page 8 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

As long as there is ventilation at the back and somewhere for the air to come out go ahead and use you imagination to make the trim kit look good to the eye. Making those tough decisions is what installers do.

We could probably help you if you would repost this with the full model number from the tag in the cooking cavity or elsewhere on the oven.Excellent job on detailing the symptoms though!Just be sure to include them in your repost, too.

could be couple things there is a high heat censor low heat censor check first if there notv bad its the magnatron

Make sure that the program controller is working if not check power - step down supply, the pads are responding- if not faulty pads- or the door switches, if the switch contact are not good then it will not trigger the processor to switch on the waveguides. If the lights or fan work without any display or action of program being triggered to start then it can be a possible fault on the main board or the processor. Sometimes insect secretion can short the board and display panel and so the processor can work in such an erratic manner. If so clean, solder and reset the board. Now identify the parts by clicking this link: http://www.espares.co.uk/advice/microwave/a/5/141/identifying-microwave-parts.html

If there is no heating please do not switch on unless you have confirmed the fault. It is possible that the Magnetron is faulty, the temperature cut off is faulty or the main capacitor is short. It is also quite possible that insect can get into the oven and create soft spots. When you switch on these will create a short and make the voltage jump and in the long run damage the magnetron. Check this link to know how a microwave works:

http://www.espares.co.uk/advice/microwave/a/5/1443/how-a-microwave-oven-works.html

So Remove cover after disconnecting , check for dirt/moisture in the cabin, if so wipe clean and dry, check the magnetron and area clean and use an jet air to clean off. Check the wave guide covers, if food had deposited then it must be checked or replaced. See link: http://www.espares.co.uk/advice/microwave/a/5/1146/how-to-replace-a-microwave-guide-cover.html

The only way possible to see if the touch pads are working is to test the voltage of the control pads when it contacts. The input of the Microprocessor should be checked for the pad control impulse to come in. If there is no trigger voltage to the mP this can be the control pad problem. The mP must be checked for the working voltage and also the frequency oscillation at the crystal leads. If so the mP is working with a suspected control pads which are not able to set the program or timing. There is no way but to remove the sticker pad and replace, One difficult way to have a chance is to remove the carbon sticker pads and check continuity , You can use a carbon pen to line the tracks so that the multi-meter reads a continuity. With this you can have a temporary fix. Use a dryer to warm carefully to dispere any moisture but if the pads are worn you need to replace.

That's in your owner's manual.If for some reason you don't still have yours, you can find it online free here, along with the relevant parts lists.You can order parts and accessories here.We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

If it is taking longer to heat things than normal then it would appear the Magnetron to starting to wear out, this is a normal sign of inefficient power from the magnetron & would need to be replaced.

You can find helpful exploded view diagrams here.

You can download Kitchenaid, Whirlpool, and Maytag owner's manuals and installation instructions here.You can find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number here. We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

see this causes and fix it. Read your instr.manual for codes. God bless youF2---Touch Panel Failure Check connections, Replace ControlF2--Shorted thermal sensor, will occur if a shorted thermal sensor is detected continuously over 5 seconds on convection, combination or roast cooking. Check oven temperature sensor for continuity. Replace if zero or infinite ohms.

i suggest you go to wal mart and purchase another one after you check your power outlet with another item before you do replace it or try plugging it in else wjere if none of the suggested things i have said works, i suspect its dead, i know of no one who repairs the things,, due to there usually throw away cheap made to start with,, good luck..

Most likely the switch that senses whether or not the door is closed is either out of adjustment, meaning when the door closes it doesn't physically make the switch contacts close, or the switch is defective. If you can physically find the switch you can "trick" it by holding it closed with a piece of tape. If that works then the switch is simply out of adjustment. If that doesn't work then you can short together the two wires going to the switch which simulates the closed internal contacts of the switch. If that works your switch has failed. If neither works then you may have a broken switch wire or solder joint where the switch inputs it's signal to a circuit board. If it is a bad circuit board you may spend the same amout of money replacing the board as you would buying a new microwave. Please be careful with theses test procedures and remember dealing with electricity can be a shocking experience! Good luck.

That is extremely dangerous, from your decription something went wrong with the keypad control board and possibily one of the door switches malfunctioned and the fact the magnetron was arcing did not trigger the fail safe systems indicates a design flaw in the system. I would demand a brand new microwave with a model that has a great safety record.

I would replace the racks, when it becomes rusty green it is time to get rid of the old and bring in the new.

This is a issue with the way the water is moving & or heating in the unit. There should be a tech mini manual behind the motor kick panel. The manual describs the failure and it's correction. Depending the the model year & run / revision code, this error could be caused by low water level, a bad thermistor, the control board not sensing inputs, bad heater or door interlock switch issues. attached is a couple of help sheets. They are general in scope.

If there is no power and you have checked the wall receptical where it plugs in, then it has blown a fuse inside the microwave oven. Because there are lethal voltages that will cause death I suggest a qualified repairman to assess the item.

The problem is one of the door switches has failed, usually caused by food partical buildup, switch must be replaced for normal operation.

The problem may be in the door latch switch, they act as part of the protection system, and should checked quickly for any other potential problems

have you had a look here yet ?http://kitchen.manualsonline.com/manuals/device/convection_oven.htmlgood luck

Hello there and welcome to fixya This is a fairly common issue with microwaves Normally the issue that you are dealing with is that the dor switch has went bad or the electrical wiring may be getting loose so what i would do is first remove the outer shell of the microwavethen get to the door switch and find the wires that are going from it to the connection poing then make a note of where the wires are connected at then remove the wires and test using ohm meter set at the lowest setting you should be getting a ol reading when the door is open then shut the door and you should show a little bit of continuity when the door is shut something like 020 or something like that however if it does not move or the numbers are really high then it should be replaced ok I have posted a link here for you to follow on how to test it and several other parts ok http://www.ApplianceRepairLesson.com