Top 20 KitchenAid KCMS145J Microwave Oven - Page 4 Questions & Answers

I have a Kitchenaid microwave KCMS145JSS0 that had a loud buzzing sound, stopped heating and there was a smell of burning electronics. It is about 19 years old, but can not be replaced because it is built in and you can not find a microwave anywhere that will fit in the opening of the 24 inch cabinet. So I had to fix it. Turns out the problem was the Magnetron. This is what I did to prove the problem. First open the unit, discharged the high voltage capacitor with a short across the terminals using a test lead from my VOM analog meter. Next disconnected the connector to the Magnetron and started the microwave. The buzzing sound was gone. Powered off the microwave and again discharged the capacitor. Using my VOM on the highest ohm value tested between the terminals on the Magnetron to ground and had a reading, it should not read anything, it should read open or infinity - Magnetron Bad. Just to make sure the other high voltage components were good I performed the following tests. Checked for continuity of the 3 different circuits on the high voltage transformer, all were good. Tested the capacitor by removing all the leads connected to it and discharged it once more. With the analog VOM set to the highest value, touched the two terminals on the capacitor. The meter should swing to the right and move back to the left as the capacitor takes on a charge. Did that just fine. There is a high voltage diode connected to one of the capacitor terminals and the other end to ground. With the analog VOM set to the highest ohm setting touched the meter to the disconnected end and ground and got a reading. Reversed the meter test leads and didn't get a reading, infinity. I was very confident the Magnetron was my only issue but decided to replace the diode along with the Magnetron because it was $20 compared to the $160 Magnetron and I had that smell of burning electronics. With the new parts the microwave now works great and no need to reconfigure the cabinet installation.

power relay seems stuck,try to replace it or replace the main control board

Yes, unless a technician may have removed it during a previous service. It should be located behind the controller assembly, sometimes in a small envelope.

At my Web site, I have a video showing you how to remove a typical microwave controller in about 5 minutes.
http://www.microwavecontrol.com

if you have other questions, please feel free to contact me directly by email through the Web site or at [email protected]

Most microwaves should be similar to this https://producthelp.kitchenaid.com/Cooking/Microwaves/Microwave_Product_Information/Setting_the_Clock_for_the_Microwave

Yes, it is probably a bad relay. Usually appliance techs just replace the whole control board, because those relays can be hard to find and buy.

you cant fix the fan you got to take it to someone who knows about things like that?

Yes, it is most likely a bad relay on the control board.

You can find helpful Kitchenaid parts diagrams and get parts at affordable prices for most models from The Pros by entering your model number here:
http://tinyurl.com/gv383

Hi Jill, what the screen indicates is that the door is not closed There are a number of internal contacts that have to be closed for the microwave to work If any of them are wrong, they can give you that information. Depending on the brand there may be between 2 or 3 contacts in the door area that generate that warning Indicate brand, model and type of equipment you are commenting on, in order to find the best possible solution I wait your answer Regards Franco Dosil Hola Jill, lo que te indica la pantalla es que la puerta no esta cerrada Hay una serie de contactos internos que tienen que estar cerrados para que el microondas funcione Si alguno de ellos esta mal puede darte esa informacion Derpendiendo de la marca pueda haber entre 2 o 3 contactos en la zona de la puerta que generan ese aviso Indica marca, modelo y tipo de equipo del que estas comentando, para poder encontrar la mejor soluci?n posible Espero tu respuesta Saludos Franco Dosil

Adjust the door switch mounting strip as adjustment is provided if not o.k check door switch connector on the PCB assembly for loose contact or soldering.

To fix this issue you really need to hire a professional for safety purposes. You are looking around $500 + or - $50 for this repair.

Here's a diagram of the door. On the inside of the door is the frame, #2. This can be removed very carefully with a small flat bladed screwdriver and work slowly around. The frame is held in place with plastic tabs on frame. Once frame is removed, you should see the two screws that hold the handle in place. Good Luck!

I'm sorry to say that it's most likely the magnetron that's shorted out (the high voltage device that produces microwaves). It's usually the case with ovens this old that a compatible replacement won't be available. There's also the fact that your oven is likely way past it's 'end-of-life' date so even if you could find a replacement, other components will begin to fail as more time passes. In short, save yourself the money, time, and frustration with a new unit. Good luck!

Hello, Cher -The microwave touch pad may need to be replaced.Since you have experienced the problem for "some years," have you contacted a business in your area which is authorized to repair KitchenAid microwave ovens? If not, I suggest you do so, if you wish to have the problem properly diagnosed and fixed.Best wishes.

It sounds like the door spring had broken. Take the covers off and it should be apparent what had happened. It may be a part you can get at the hardware store or it may be an OEM part.

parts available here KitchenAid Microwave Model KCMS185JSS 3 Parts

try to turn the coupling, either stripped broken coupling, or bad gear in drive motor. should not be able to turn by hand

have it inspectied my a real company . if it was wired wrong, such as the oven was 220 volts and the microwave was 110 volt they tried to split the 220 down to 110 and wired it wrong. my question is was there a oven there before, if not did they run new wires for that oven . 220 volt needs 4 wires to run it , to be right. It sounds like 220 was put to the microwave.

If the magnetron is still operating when off, needless to say , its pretty dangerous. The door lock unit usually has at least 3 microswitches to ensure that the door is closed and ready to operate. 1 of the switches is a safety switch which will cause a dead short if the door is forced open or something goes wrong with the door not closing correctly. This will "blow" the internal fuse in the machine. If the magnetron keeps going, its possible one of these switches have failed or there is an electronic fault causing power to the magnetron in the off position although, I would strongly feel this would be unlikely. These machines are made with a lot of safety devices.

If you're referring to the cavity light, it's possible the bulb is just loose in its socket. The cover has to be removed to access the bulb.