Top 20 KitchenAid KCMS145J Microwave Oven - Page 10 Questions & Answers

Hi,
Here is a tip that will help you to figure out what is wrong with yourMicrowave Oven....

Microwave Oven Basic Troubleshooting Tips

heatman101

Hello, Thank You for using FixYa. I will be helping you today.Its not easy and most people who try it for the first time break the door and need to buy a whole door.You need to use a putty knife and slide it into the door edge on the inside part of the door and pop the clips all the way around to seperate the door in two then you can change the handle.
Thank You and please rate my answer if it was helpful..

We would need the model number in order to provide you with free assistance.

It is usually found on a tag located inside the cooking cavity or around the door frame or controller frame.

Since FixYa is still not notifying us when you respond to clarification requests, you will have to post a new help request with your model number and symptoms / questions.

Hi,

The ignitor is not working right and is going bad....
have the repair man replace the ignitor, or DIY....
Check out this tip about your problem...

Oven not Working or Oven not Heating

Oven Problems Replacing the Igniter


heatman101

I want you to try and Press LOWER OVEN CANCEL to clear display(s). If this doesn't work, you have a bad fuse, cavity thermal overload device, or right door switch. Working inside a Microwave can be very dangerous, and without the proper training and knowledge I would recommend you get a service technician to repair your microwave.

This unit will throw a DOOR error if the 20A fuse, the 15A fuse, the cavity thermal overload device and/or the primary interlock (right door switch) is bad.

To check the door switch, connect a Multi-Meter to the door switch terminals (P5-3 (BR) to P5-1 (TAN)) and check for an Open Circuit when the Door is Open, and a Closed Circuit when the Door is Closed.

To check the 20A Fuse, 15A Fuse, and the Cavity Thermal Overload Device, use a Multi-Meter to check for continuity across the fuse terminals, starting with the 20A Fuse (Black L1 to Black J1-1), then the 15A Fuse (Black J1-1 to Tan), and then the Cavity Thermal Overload Device (Tan to Red). No continuity means a bad fuse.


Click on picture to enlarge I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_69f3cc28d95bf514

hello, yes go to kitchenaid website under owners section and type in model number. It will be there. Hope this helps and please rate my answer. Thanks

That's usually a defective upper or lower door switch (or either switch's mount may be bad) or a stuck relay on the control circuit board.

At our Web site, we have a video available showing how to remove a typical over the range control panel assembly in under 5 minutes.

Our file on door switches is here.

After you or a friend look that over, if you still have a problem, we repair these control boards for $39.95 with a one-year guarantee.

Instead of having yours repaired, you can buy a new control circuit board from the Pros here, our favorite supplier.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

Hi, it is caused by a blown 20 amp fuse in series with the Primary door switch.

CORRECTION: Most often the first attempt is to change, or adjust, the primary door switch, but components (20 amp fuse, 15 amp fuse and cavity thermostat) in series with the primary door switch are the culprit. Check and replace as necessary the 20 amp fuse, the 15 amp fuse or the cavity thermostat.

Yes it does, unplug unit, remove back cover, "2 to 6 screws" on the right side look for a silver rectangular capacitor, discharge it across the two pins with a long screwdriver, next look for a ceramic fuse, "white body with silver ends" remove and replace with same type and rating. If the fuse blows again it indicates a bad door switch.

Whats the Model No?

Hi

Please check this service manual if you want to do this yourself. Hope this helps...please post back for further assistance.

Daniel

Firstly, you need to see if the light comes on when you open the door. Then, check if the thermostat is set properly. If there is no problem with this, then you need to check if the compressor motor is running. This is usually located at the back of the refrigerator near the bottom. Even if the problem persists. Refrigerators have either an ADC (Adaptive Defrost Control) or a mechanical defrost timer. If your refrigerator has a mechanical timer, you must set the coldest setting and advance the defrost timer.

A mechanical defrost timer controls the defrost cycle of the freezer. As the timer continues to advance, power to the heating element is cut and power is restored to the cooling system. If the timer does not advance, the appliance will be stuck either in defrost or refrigerate mode, resulting in, respectively, no cooling to the refrigerator.
The defrost timer is usually found behind the front grill "toe kick" of the refrigerator. It may also be found behind a cover plate inside the refrigerator or freezer, in the temperature control console, or behind the refrigerator near the compressor.
To test whether the defrost timer is simply failing to advance, locate the advance screw and turn it clockwise until you hear it click. This advances it to the next mode. If it was cooling before, it is now in defrost mode. Simply wait about 35 minutes and check whether it has left defrost mode and has resumed cooling (listen for the compressor). If it does not advance, the timer motor is probably bad and the entire timer needs to be replaced. If it advances as it should, then you can follow the steps below to test the switch electrically.
The timer is usually held in place with one or more screws. Remove the screws and gently pull the timer out far enough to disconnect the wiring connector. The connector can be removed by firmly pulling and rocking it left and right. It is not necessary to note the position of the wires because the connector plug is keyed so that it can be replaced in only one way.

at the top, above the ram, there are two switches. One is the reversing switch (should have 4 wires), the other is the stop switch (2 wires). I suspect that the switch arm is bent, due to what you just described, and fails to activate the switch to stop the motor when the ram is at the top position.

Hi

The best possible way is by replacing the handle as there is no such paint available that gives stainless steel finish. Hope this helps...please post back for further assistance.

Daniel

Your handle can be purchased from Sears at the link below, part number 7 depending on your color and finish A - C for $36.18. You can also view the schematic for the door and based on the picture, you can see how to disassemble the door by removing screw (Part Number 8).

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/part-model/Kitchenaid-Parts/Microwave-Parts/Model-KHMS155LSS0/0593/0123370/P0306212/00002?blt=06&prst=&shdMod=

In case of a problem or clarification or my solution was insufficient, don't hesitate to post me a reply.

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Here's an exploded view of the door:




Item 10, the door panel, just snaps over the rest of the assembly. If you work slowly and carefully with a flat object like a putty knife, you can separate the door panel and take it off without damage. This will expose the screws (number 8) which hold the handle on. Then you just need to snap the door panel back into replace after you put on the new handle.

Good luck and thanks for using Fixya!

Hi,

There is more to your model number. Can you give me the full number?
Also, which bulb is burned out?

Please reply back. Thanks,

Handie Andie

Hi,

The ignitor is not working right and is going bad....
have the repair man replace the ignitor, or DIY....
Check out this tip about your problem...

Oven not Working or Oven not Heating

Oven Problems Replacing the Igniter


heatman101

Hello & Welcome to FixYa

To replace it first at the rear of the door the black plastic piece need to be removed. It can be tricky. It is held in place by a bunch of tabs. The best advice I can give is to use a thin putty knife and start in a lower corner and work your way around. Once you get the first couple the rest are easy. Please get back to me if you have any other questions.

Kevin

Hi,
To relight it you need to pick up the top from the front and then relight the pilot that is in the center between the burners with a match or a lighter...

heatman101