20 Most Recent KitchenAid KCMS145J Microwave Oven - Page 3 Questions & Answers

Everything working is a real good sign. Most likely all thats wrong with your unit is a blown fuse. Go to http://www.partselect.com/MultiModels.aspx?ModelNum=kcms145j&SearchTerm=fuse&RefineSearch=0 and you will find the fuse. It's behind the touch pad with most all the other workings. Very easy to replace and cost only $11.76. It looks like an old round glass car fuse but it's made just for micro waves. It's most likely a 20 amp fuse. To get to it, take all the screws out from the back that hols the case on. once you have removed the case you will be able to locate the fuse. Good luck.

It's likely the magnetron overheated, and when its thermostat tripped, all power was interrupted for safety until it cooled back down.

You likely have a failed magnetron, which is sometimes due to a failed internal cooling fan or clogged filter.

Your owner's manual will help you on locating and checking the filters. Grease filters can be cleaned, but charcoal filters cannot, they must be replaced.

When I say internal cooling fan, I do not mean the hood vent exhaust fan which you can turn on and off manually.

I'm instead talking about the internal fan which comes on automatically whenever you microwave.

It is vital that the cooling fan runs, or the turntable and stirrer won't work, and magnetron will soon be destroyed.

Sometimes the cooling fan will not run after the cooktop lamps have failed. A surge from the filaments shorting can cause damage to the control circuit board, resulting in odd operation from lights, fan, or turntable.

We regularly repair these control units for customers nationwide by mail for $39.95 postpaid in about a week or so with a one-year guarantee.

We have a sound clip here of what a microwave should sound like when the cooling fan and high voltage section are working.

A loud buzz, hum, or groan is usually a shorted high voltage rectifier diode, but a sound like gurgling into an empty coffee mug is one symptom of a failed magnetron, and yet the mag can be bad without that sound.

Here are some links you or someone you know can use (in order given) for test help, but read the safety warnings first:

http://www.gallawa.com/microtech/diode.html
(if it is NOT shorted or burned looking, it's probably fine)

http://www.gallawa.com/microtech/mag_test.html
(continuity can be good even though mag is bad!)

You can find links to helpful exploded view diagrams and part ordering help here.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

I downloaded a parts schematic of the door latch assembly and thought I would determine the broken part, order a replacement and install same. As soon as I started to remove the shell of the unit to get at the latch assembly, I discovered non-standard fasteners are used. My wife advised me to stop and take it to a service center because she did not want me to mess up the containment of the radiation! Thanks for your interest. MB

The plastic lever release is more than likely broken. You can order the part from
http://www.repairclinic.com/Appliance-Parts?s=t-KCMS145JSS0-%3d%3dc226g5
It's about twenty dollars.

This is just okay but if you're quite doubtful you may bring this to any appliance service center for repaint

Yes, microwave cavity paint.

The part you need is sometimes call a megatron, they may call it something now, but its the power that radiates through the unit. I think this may be the culprit Sorry but this is not a cheep fix. you may want to do a cost comparison . This happened to me only after the warrentee had expired . good luck with it. DFD

You have a shorting membrane keypad. If and when an oven is coming on or doing anything by itself, this is very dangerous and can result in a fire.

So until it is repaired, please leave it unplugged or leave the door open when it's not in use, and please do not leave it running unattended.

If you (or someone you know) might want to replace it yourself, I have uploaded a handy guide with pictures showing you what's typically involved.

You can find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number here.

If you would like to have us do this repair for you, we do that for $39.95 plus part costs, appx. $49.99 more in this case.

At our Web site, we have a video available showing how to remove a typical over the range control panel assembly for repair in under 5 minutes.

Feel free to contact me directly (and please remind me of your full model number from the tag on the unit) for more information & help.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

William E. Miller, AS-EET
[email protected]
http://www.microwavedisplay.com

To actons2 - This is usually caused by either a bad door switch or a loose door switch mount, which are pretty simple problems to fix.

Even though a door switch clicks, it may still be bad inside.

Door switch or mount trouble is usually caused by slamming the door or by opening the door while it's cooking without hitting the Stop pad first.

There are plastic mounts inside the microwave which hold the door switches and onto which the door latches lock when you close the door.

The screws on these mounts may be loose. If they get too loose, the switches will not be activated properly.

Sometimes it's a broken tab on the switch holder, allowing the switch to rotate just out of position. This tab can be hard to see, since it is under the bottom edge of the switch.

If the switch mount is broken, it's usually more economical and safer to add a dab or two of hot glue to the mount to secure the switch. Let it cool for about 30 minutes before using.

One test that sometimes helps is to gently lift up (and/or push down) on the door or handle as you try to start it. If it works or tries to work, then it's a door switch mount or door alignment issue.

If you or someone you know decide to look into it, we have critical information on safety, disassembly and door switches at our site, and our link is at our listing here on FixYa:.

You can find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number here.

There should also be a "mini-manual" hidden inside the unit behind the control panel or hidden on the left side behind the grille, which is very helpful when troubleshooting & testing.



At our Web site, we have a video available showing how to remove a typical over the range control panel assembly in under 5 minutes.

If you don't find yours, or if you want to look at it without disassembling the oven, you can download it here.

If you only need a switch, you can order a universal type here for $5 postpaid.

If you think the problem is on the control panel, we repair these nationwide by mail for $39.95 postpaid in most cases in about a week or so.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

Note to Austin8181 - Your problem is not quite the same.

Please report as a separate request and of course please include your brand and model number.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

On most new MW ovens, the door will lift off the hinges once the top grille is removed. There are two screws on the top that hold the grille in place.

bad control panel.. all power is routed through the control panel.. if your having a problem like that i would replace the control..

You will need a T20 x 100mm Torx Wrench to remove the 4-5 security screws that hold the top "hood" on the microwave unit. I could not find the wrench at Home Depot or Lowe's but it was available at Harbor Freight tools. Its also found easily on the Internet. Its about $10 for a set of 5-10 different sizes.

After removing the screw, and removing the hood, the rest is pretty simple. The left side (looking from the rear of the unit) will be completely exposed now. Be careful not to touch the Magnetron, Transformer, and other wiring to the unit as everything is on this left side.

You will have to unscrew one screw on the top of the control panel that attaches it to the main unit. Once that screw is off, you have to carefully disconnect 3 electrical connectors on the circuit board, then you just have to pull the control board up and out, as there are a couple of latches on the bottom that hooks it onto the frame.

I wouldn't trust the super glue, especially if it's a nylon part.

I would use epoxy, but you may not have enough room to slather it on without getting it in the pivot hole, etc.

A new latch (release lever) may very well be needed.

Good luck.

We're happy to help and we appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

its time repair will cost more than a new one

Since the noise is louder, I would suspect a shorted high voltage rectifier diode or failed magnetron.

That model may have a 5-year warranty on the magnetron.

Your owner's manual and warranty guide can be downloaded here, and on that same page you'll find Customer Service contact info.

Generally, the most common causes of a failure to heat are:

- bad door switches or door switch mounts
- loose connection at the magnetron
- problem or loose connection on the control unit circuit board
- bad magnetron or other high voltage part (such as a shorted diode)

If you or someone you know decide to look into it, we have critical safety information, info on door switch diagnosis and replacement, and disassembly information at our site, and our link is at our listing here on FixYa: http://tinyurl.com/yzjozk

You can usually find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number here: http://tinyurl.com/gv383

We're happy to help and we appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

On the electronic control board, the circuit trace will open like a fuse if the light bulb power becomes shorted. If you or someone knows how to use a soldering iron, this can be repaired.
1. Remove the top grille. (Two screws on top)
2. Remove screw above button panel. Push up on panel to remove.
3. Remove circuit board from panel. Look on reverse side for a burned, open circuit trace.
4. Repair circuit trace everything should work again....

If everything on the microwave works, except the turntable, this could be a simple turntable drive motor failure. It does happen from time to time. This motor gets a workout as it runs each and every time you use the oven. I just want to reassure you that these DO wear out and should not be an indication of the quality of the oven. I've had to replace them before. The motor costs about $34 at searspartsdirect.com. That is...if your model number is correct. You will need to go to the web site and type in your COMPLETE model number. There are several Kitchen-Aid models listed with the number you provided. I managed to scroll through several of the part listings and they all seem to be consistent with identfying the motor you need as item #11 under the "Oven Cavity" heading. The part number is W10159107. This is a fairly simple repair job. You shouldn't have to uninstall the oven if it is cabinet mounted. All have to do is unplug the power source and remove the panel covering the underside of the microwave. The plastic spindle just pulls off the motor shaft. Let me know if you need further assistance. I hope this helps you.

http://www.repairclinic.com/SmartSearch/smartsearch.aspx?SearchText=%60Bkitchenaid

http://www.howstuffworks.com