20 Most Recent Leviton 8599 GFCI Receptacle - Page 7 Questions & Answers

Some switches are not designed to work with the florescent bulbs. It's a matter of them trying to push a starter for the light. Check the package and see if it's compatible.

The wiring for the overhead light is the same as for the outlet. I don't know what wires you have in the box where you will be putting this switch, but I will assume the simplest case. The box should have 3 sets of wires. Each set has a white, a black and a ground. One set is hot, coming from the main panel. One set goes to the light. The third set goes to the outlet. Connect all three ground wires together and to the ground lug on the switch. Connect all three white wires together, but not to the switch. Your switch will have 4 terminal screws. On one side of the switch, two of the screws should be connected together with a little metal bar. Connect the hot black wire from the panel to one of the two screws that are connected together. (the other screw is not used). Connect your black wire for the light to one of the screws on the other side of the switch. Connect your black wire for the outlet to the last remaining screw. Be safe. good luck. Let me know if you found this helpful. Al K

Leviton T5625 has shutter (tamper resistant) mechanism that blocks access to the contacts unless a two-prong plug is inserted. My understanding is this mechanism prevents child from sticking piece of metal into receptacle and getting shocked. Tamper resistant receptacles are code for new home construction, and receptacle is marked with TR. The light switch part of device works at all times, with or without two-prong plug in receptacle.
http://www.leviton.com/OA_HTML/ibeCCtpItmDspRte.jsp?item=388754§ion=24614&minisite=10026

Electricians test, they don't guess.

Let's test your wires using ordinary two-prong tester.
Tape wood sticks to tester leads to keep hands away from power. Stand on dry surface or wood boards. Do not shake or sweat.
Separate wires for testing
Turn power ON.
Test each wire to bare ground wire.
Tester lights up on Hot wire. Hot wire connects to either dark-colored screw, as long as there is a brass connector plate that connects both dark colored screws. If connector plate is missing, add a jumper wire between both dark screws so they are connected together.
Hot wire is identified.
Now test Hot wire to each other wire, except bare ground wire.
Tester lights up on neutral wire. Neutral wire connects to silver screw.
If neutral wire is white wire, AND both white wires were connected together before, then they both connect to silver screw.
The last wire is the Load wire that goes to fan, light, motor. Load wire connects to brass colored screw.
Double check instructions with instructions on new device.
Add a comment any time.

You can also take advantage of fixya phone service.
For a price, fixya expert speaks to you over the phone while you test and wire the device.

Yes you secure that GREEN wire to EARTH, that bare wire and screw will do just fine.

A dimmer usually goes "IN" the PHASE line, BLACK, and in Series with any "Load" usually there is One Black IN from the Main Power, the Other, an OUT BLACK, still Phase, this side goes to the "Hot" side "Load". The "Other" side of the "Load" is called the "Cold" side, and that goes to neutral.and the circuit is complete.

It looks like the old one was IN on Black, and OUT on White. White went to hot side of load...the other wire is hooked up to the main Phase wire..supply..

black to brass colored screws /white to silver screws /green is ground

I am having the same trouble in my church with two nsi/leviton dimmers. Wide horizontal bar created on video screen during dimming. No bar at 100% or off, just anywhere in between.

The dimmer isn't a straight resistor, its an R-C timing circuit, and the caps within that circuit are going to mess up any resistance measurement you're trying to make. The R-C circuit is there as a timing mechanism to determinine the duty cycle on/off time of the dimmer. It is because of that, that I recommend you try to not use a light-dimmer for a soldering iron - the dimmers are not resistive rheostats, they're light switches (on and off @ 120-times a second). Depending upon the nature of the soldering iron, that may cause some harmful problems.

Review old switches:
Two old switches > each has 2 wires
Old switch 1 > Red and White
Old switch 2 > Black and White
The same white wire connects to both switches, so effectively they count as 1 wire
This means you have 3 wires ... 1 White, 1 Red, 1 Black
Each switch controls a separate load (light, fan, motor)

New Leviton double-rocker switch:
-Leviton has 2 Brass-colored screws on one side, and these screws are connected together by a brass plate >> your Hot wire will connect to brass screw
-Leviton has 2 Silver-colored screws on other side, and neither of these screws are connected in any way >> the wires going to each load will connect on a different screw on this side of switch.

Hot wire: Each box in your house has exactly 1 hot wire that is connected back to breaker box. This is true for all boxes (excluding boxes that have a 3-way & 4-way switches).
We need to identify Hot wire.

-By code the Hot wire is black for identification purposes ... but your box sounds like maybe the Hot wire is White.
-If your Hot wire is white, that is NOT an immediate safety issue ... it will not cause a fire or malfunction ... it is a code violation ... because code requires things be uniform so next electrician knows what previous guy did. So some day, electrician working outside grabs wrong color wire, and wow. I say this so you know.

Moving on.

Identify Hot wire:
-Pull 3 wires up so they can be tested
-Turn on power
-Use ordinary tester, or old lamp with plug cut off and wires stripped back
-Tape tester lead to sticks so hands are away from voltage
-Power is on. Don't stand in water or touch metal pipes, and you're fine.
-You have 3 wires in box + ground wire
-Test all 3 wires to bare ground wire >> when tester lights up, that is Hot wire ... testing is complete

Connect wires to Leviton double-rocker:
-Power is OFF.
-You have 3 wires - 1 White, 1 Black, 1 Red >> one is Hot wire, the other two wires go to load
-Hot wire connects to Brass-colored screws on new Leviton.
-Brass colored screws are connected together by a brass plate so the Hot does not need to connect to both brass screws.
-The other two wires connect to Silver screws on other side of new Leviton switch
-One wire goes to each silver screw
-Connect bare ground wire to green screw.
-Push wires back into box. Use eraser end of pencil if needed.
-Make sure ground wire is back and away from screws on switch
-That's it.

what type of dimmer switch is it.

If there is an electrical specialty store in your area, i would remove the switch and take it there. They may be able to help in either replacing or rebuilding it. That sort of control is not difficult to recreate, but it is an uncommon feature. A good electronics tech can show you how and get you the parts to do it. i am NOT talking about Radio Shack. i mean a mom and pop shop that specializes in electrical and electronics.

i hope this helps
matthew

Questions to answer so I can answer/resolve your problem:

1) Is this a rotary style dimmer?
2) Is it a toggle or slider type?
3) Is this on a 3-way circuit (that has 2 or more switches that can turn the lights on or off)
4) Is this on a single switch circuit?
5) Is this a brand new dimmer switch?
6) Is this an old dimmer switch?
7) Are the light bulbs in the spots regular incandesant or halogen bulbs?
8) Are the light bulbs in the spots CFL (compact flouresent lamps)?

With this information, I can tell you what the problem is:

If you answer "YES" to #1, and or #6 then the dimmer is faulty and should be replaced.

If you answer "YES" to #8, then you have the wrong dimmer for the bulb type, as CFL's require a specific dimmer type in order to dim them.

Please provide some more info and maybe we can help you figure out what's wrong.

Hope you find this Very Helpful and best regards!

One side of the switch has Brass screws, and the other has nickle screws. there is usually a small brass bridge between the upper, and lower switch screws on the brass screw side. if you are feeding both from a common power source leave the little brass bridge in place, and screw on of the screws in all the way. Put the energised wire under the other brass screw. Bare copper wire goes to the green screw. The power will be transferred to the nickle screws through the corresponding switch. put the wire to the fan on one, and the light on the other. Presto.

not familier with this model but yes sounds like its wired incorrectly, usually on a 2 way switch you will only have 1 live comming in, it will feed common in, the bottom 2 will connect too the bottom 2 on the other switch in opposite order then the common on the other switch will fed the light.

http://www.leviton.com/OA_HTML/ibcGetAttachment.jsp?cItemId=y8QWKImQP7cPVn3GRND9ig&label=IBE&appName=IBE

No need to break the tab... that' on the power IN side of the switch..
You only need one power in (in most cases).
The power outs are separated already.. one goes to your first load and the other will go to the second.
The white wires are your common and are hooked together with the other whites in the box... don't hook them to the switch.
Hope this get's ya all connected... let me know if you need more assistance.
K

Yes

No one gives sizing. https://generatorguru.com/spark-plug-27901063/ https://www.google.com/search?q=united+power+generator+Model+GG2900+parts ..

https://cleanestor.com/how-to-clean-up-freon/?expand_article=1 This should help

No connecting to your utilty company in South Africa. Just FYI, we are a North American site and my not always have the answer, in this case we do Https://www.facebook.com/ConlogSolutions/posts/im-having-a-rf-con-error-cant-do-anything-on-the-gadget-please-help-on-how-to-re/962048393965724/ Quoting from link above: "Conlog Hi Ola-daniels, Please see below steps to assist with RFCON error : * Press the Back arrow on the keypad - this step is to refresh the UIU ( the device) * Type # 75 # - this is to check the signal strength If it does not go back to the normal display *Type # 80 # - this is to refresh the meter Then lastly you can repair the meter and the UIU by # 36 # The above steps will work better if you are outside the house because the meters uses the radio frequency connection The above error will occur in instances of bad weather conditions or if there is load shedding or power failure If the problem persists after trying the above you may contact the municipality or the service provider."

SOLVED: How do I clear up the rf con error on my meter ...

https://www.fixya.com > ... > The

May 7, 2020 - How do I clear up the rf con error on my meter because I want to ... Https://www.facebook.com/ConlogSolutions/posts/im-having-a-rf-con-error- ... Hi Ola-daniels, Please see below steps to assist with RFCON error : ... shut down the energy alimentation for 2 minute ,but if the defect persist error it show again. SOLVED: Pole meter conlog rf con meter keep on freezing ... Jan. 10, 2017 Meter reading shows rF CON instead of units available - Fixya Jun. 24, 2018 SOLVED: Good day my conlog ip54 elecricity meter showd ... Oct. 6, 2018 SOLVED: Rf con error - Fixya Jun. 20, 2020 More results from www.fixya.com

Please Help With My Conlog Prepaid Meter - Technology ...

https://www.nairaland.com > please-conlog-prepaid-meter

Aug. 6, 2020 - ystar: If the conlog meter is showing rf-Con, it means power supply doesn't reach the meter at all its either Loss of phase from the transformer or a loose contact ... How Do I Load The Activation Token On My Conlog Prepaid ... Mar. 17, 2020 I Need A Technician To Fix This... - Nairaland / General - Nigeria Jul. 22, 2019 I Need Number Codes To Reset Memmcol Prepaid Meter ... Jan. 11, 2019 More results from www.nairaland.com

Consult a qualified electrician.