Top 20 Leviton R01-PR180-1LI Decora 180 Degree PIR Motion Switch Ivory Questions & Answers

Black wire to constant power Blue wire to load (to your light) Green wire to Ground

Just ignore the fact the new device does not have white neutral. While old device has neutralDifference: The new device is rated for incandescent only, while the old device was rated all type of lights including cfl etc.Copy following link for wiring illustrationshttp://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-occupancy-switch.htmlCheck manual for product rating. You might want to return device and buy one with white neutral wire so it will work with your application. If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

Which brand and model number specifically?Leviton: 1-800-824-3005Leviton Decora manual says:"PR180 operates by detecting motion (such as body heat) within its field-of-view (area of coverage) and automatically switches lights ON. When motion is no longer detected, lights remain ON for a selected time and automatically switch OFF.Adjustable light and time-delay controls are located on the front of the device."The manual is not specific about set times.In any case, the device has off-delay timing circuit, so once infrared heat is no longer sensed, the delay period begins, and once the delay period expires, the device is switched off.Delay timing circuits are common for many home and industrial applications.As a general rule, delay timers can be set for different time durations, however the Amazon page that sells PR180 product does not specify available time settings either.Legrand RW3U occupancy sensor spec sheet says adjustable time delay 15 seconds 5 minutes, 15 minutes and 30 minuteshttp://www.amazon.com/Legrand-RW3U603I-Occupancy-Vacancy-Decorator/dp/B005FMLL5GDelay switchesHere is manual delay-time switch Tork SS20 SS13 where you can 'fine-tune' the delay circuit, but my experience is that exact 5 minutes is not easily set:http://waterheatertimer.org/images/Paragon-ET-series-243.jpgGE 15318 switch offers 5 minute, but there is no guarantee that you can get 5 minutes exactly:http://waterheatertimer.org/images/GE-15318-countdown-timer.jpgMy conclusion is that there are very limited delay-time choices with this model number, or device is defective and suggest to call Leviton. If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

Heat is the enemy of electricity, especially electronics.The public doesn't understand how global warming is going to affect electrical devices including your phone, timers, detectors, and all electrical power.If you research operational temperatures for small electronic devices, the upper range is usually 105-120 degrees F. Some can operate up to 135 degrees F, and will fail in higher temperatures because the circuit board, chip and parts are made to withstand certain temperature tolerances.High temperature hardened devices cost more than typical box store electronic device.There can also be a low temperature range that affects batteries and rechargeable batteries inside devices that have display properties.Back to high heat: Electronics are limited by high heat.Electrical transmission along power lines is limited because of high heat. Long distance transmission is high voltage and low amperage to reduce heat caused by high amperage.(Super conductive materials, that allow limitless transmission without loss, must be at very low temperatures (absolute zero, etc))And then at your house, the high voltage low amperage power line is changed to lower voltage high amperage at the transformer before it enters your home.If you get serious electrical shock, you will get burned because electricity is Hot. The power line in electrical circuit is called the Hot line. So electricity is all about heat.http://waterheatertimer.org/See-inside-main-breaker-box.htmlUnrelated to electronics, but related to global warming: Even gas water heaters inside hot attic will lose the pilot light because the heat pushes air molecules farther apart, making it harder to breathe, and causing the pilot flame not to have enough oxygen to support combustion.People should consider if we will be able to make small fires if global temperatures get hot enough.http://waterheatertimer.org/pdf/Attic-Ventilation-and-Pilot-Outage-in-Gas Water-Heaters.pdfThis means the short-term solution to your electronic problem is to open a window slightly in the garage.Better yet is to install natural ventilation.Install a vent(s) on the wall, down low along floor on shaded side of garage. Then install another vent(s) on wall near ceiling, or install a vent pipe to roof.The combination of high-and-low vent will cause a natural flow of air through the garage. This is the same principle used to ventilate an attic. If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

The old single pole switch has 2 black wires.
One black wire is hot from circuit breaker box, and the other black wire goes to load (light, fan, motor)

New device has black wire: connect this to hot from circuit breaker box.
New device red wire: connect this to load wire
New device has white wire: connect this to Neutral wires.
Neutral wires are white wires that are twisted together and covered with wire nut and pushed to back of box. If your box does not have neutral wires, then connect device white wire to bare ground wire.

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In addition to the black, red, green, and yellow/red wires on the switch, there should also be a white wire or terminal marked WH. The black wire on the switch connects to the incoming black wire (line in or hot) inside the switch box. The red wire on the switch connects to the outgoing black wire (to the load) inside the switch box. The green connects to the bare wires inside the switch box. The yellow/red is not used in a single pole application such as yours. The two white wires inside the switch box are twisted together and _also_ connected to the WH terminal (or white wire) on the switch.

Straight from the manual: (As you are facing the switch, the light level adjustment is on the upper left. The time selection is on the lower left.

1. With power restored and wallplate removed, use your finger or a small screwdriver to adjust the light sensitivity and time settings on the device as follows:
Light Level Adjustment:• Turn the control towards the "+" sign. Lights will turn ON in lighter conditions.• Turn the control towards the "-" sign. Lights will turn ON in less lighting conditions.
Time Selection:• Adjust the time selector to the desired length of time the lights are to remain ON. Lights will remain ON from15 seconds to 15 minutes after the room is vacated.
• Turn the control towards the "+" sign. Lights will remain ON up to 15 minutes.
• Turn the control towards the "-" sign. Lights will remain ON up to 15 seconds.
2. Test that the light level and time selection are as desired. If not, repeat adjustments until satisfied.

The manual is here:
http://www.leviton.com/OA_HTML/ibeCCtpItmDspRte.jsp?item=8018§ion=17219&minisite=10022

Leviton manuals:
http://www.leviton.com/OA_HTML/ibeCCtpSctDspRte.jsp?section=17219&minisite=10022

A quick peek inside a sample Leviton manual confirms that your wires are connect correct - BUT...
http://waterheatertimer.org/pdf/Leviton-motion-Instructions.pdf

The remaining 3-way switch needs a jumper wire.
See if your instruction manual shows the same thing as image below.
Let's go through this.
The yellow wire connects to a traveler ... and that traveler connects to one of the brass screws on 3-way switch.
The black wire from Motion sensor also connects to a traveler wire ... BUT you have to identify which traveler wire and which brass screw that traveler wire connects to. And then, put a jumper wire (a short piece of wire) from that brass screw to the dark-colored screw.
I think that will do it.
Add a comment if your device is different.


Some of these electronic devices are reversed when two of their wires are connected together.
That's what the jumper wire is doing. So the 3-way switch is just connecting and disconnecting the black and yellow wires, and that action reverses the circuit in the motion device.

What's the problem? You can get instructions at leviton website but also suggest you read competing products manuals to build perspective. These are difficult to install in 3 way wiring situations. In 3-way they only seem to work well when wired to load not line side. In 3 way I suggest you wire in 2. There is a certain way of doing this. I just looked at instructions for Leviton's competition.

1) First of all you need to determine what device you are replacing. Single-pole or 3-way.
Add a comment any time

Remember you can also take advantage of fixya phone service, where expert speaks to you over the phone while you are installing device. This service is not free.

2) If you are replacing single-pole switch, that is where one switch controls the Load (light fan motor)
Here are instructions for installing ipp15-11 Motion switch for single-pole replacement.
Old switch has 2 insulated wires plus bare ground wire.
Ipp15 bare copper ground wire will connect to bare copper ground wire.

Separate switch wires for testing.
Use ordinary two prong tester, tape tester leads to wood sticks to keep hands away from power.
Turn power ON.
Test each wire to bare ground wire.
Tester lights up on Hot wire. This wire will connect to ipp15 screw marked BL black.
The other wire that came off switch will connect to ipp15 screw marked RD red
Hot wire is identified.
Located in back of box are white wires that are twisted together and covered with wire nut. Remove this nut.
Now test Hot wire to all other wires in box, excluding bare ground wire.
Tester lights up on neutral wires. ipp15 screw marked WH white connects to neutral wires.
If your box does not have neutral wire, then connect ipp15 WH white to bare ground wires.

4) If you are replacing 3-way switch, that is where 2 different switches control the same Load (light fan motor.
3-way switch has 3 insulated wires and a bare ground wire.
Note screw colors on old 3-way switch. Dark screw is the Load wire. The 2 brass screws are the travelers.
From the ipp15 instructions, it appears you will need Viza Coordinating Switch Remote plus a sensor device to accomplish the 3-way installation.
If you have both of these devices and want free written instructions, then add a comment and I will verbalize contents from the manual.
Also you can pay a fixya expert to talk over the phone.

5) Leviton also offers technical assistance at 1-800-824-3055

There is nothing wrong with the switch or your wiring. The Leviton R01-PR180-1LI is not designed to work with flourescent lights. A lot of electronic controls will bleed through a small voltage when in the "OFF" state. It's just enough voltage to make the ballast in the flourescent light try to fire but not enough to let it fire the way it is supposed too.

What you need is a motion switch that is rated for flourescent lights, such as this :-( :
http://www.smarthome.com/2520W/Leviton-ODS10-IDW-Commercial-Grade-Wall-Mounted-Occupancy-Sensor-White/p.aspx

The Leviton PR180 is a motion detector, or occupancy detector.
It senses infrared heat from a person's body.

I am looking at the manual from Leviton.

Maybe this will help:
There is a small adjustment screw under the wallplate where you can adjust light sensitivity.
Use fingernail or small screwdriver.
Turn control towards the "-" sign and lights will turn on in 'less lighting conditions'

I will be here for a few more hours.
Add a comment and I will help further is needed

-Replace the compact florescent bulbs with regular incandescent bulbs and see if problem continues.
-Lighting controls are made for different kinds of bulbs.
-Your package should say what the watt rating and type of bulb.

According to the PR180 manual:
-I am looking at the Leviton PR180 occupancy sensor manual, and the PR180 sell-sheet, and these documents say for incandescent and fluorescent (rapid-start magnetic ballast only).
-Compact fluorescent are supposed to have a magnetic ballast.
-The manual does not specifically say it works with 'compact fluorescent'
-The manual does not say there is a minimum amount of wattage either. Some controls will not work correctly if the overall wattage is low. Your overall wattage is 39watts.

Read the product package (if this is a new installation and you have the package)
Try the incandescent bulbs.
If the PR180 is not your product, add a comment with product number and I'll look for information

While there are many ways to wire 3-way switches, the most common way is to bring a 2-wire/with ground HOT and neutral cable (from circuit breaker or source) into one switch box and a 2-wire/with ground LOAD cable (to light) into the other switch box. Then a 3-wire/with ground cable is ran between both switch boxes.

The PR 180 _must_ be installed at the switch box the has the cable that goes to the LOAD. I suspect that you have the PR 180 installed in the switch box that contains the HOT feed.

Unfortunately, the solution is to install the PR 180 at the downstairs location and have the normal 3-way switch at the top.

Another solution would be to install a Leviton 1PP15-1L at the switch box that has the HOT feed and a Leviton 1PP0R-1L at the switch box the has the LOAD cable. This, of course will result in a sensor at each location.

Sorry, but you need one extra wire between the switches to wire "the opposite configuration" that you want :-(
That means going into the attic and pulling another cable :-( I can walk you through it if you are willing to do all that work.
The only other solution would be to purchase the commercial version of that motion switch, which would also require a sensor at _each_ switch location :-(

Unfortunately you cannot use two PR180-1LA's for what you want to do. :-( There is only one correct installation:
One PR180-1LA needs to be installed at the switch box which contains the cable that goes to the light (load). That is a must. One then installs a regular 3-way switch at the switch box which contains the cable with the hot from the breaker (line or source).

If you reverse the sensor location you will need 4 wires between the switches, which is not usual practice, as the bare grounding wire is not permitted to carry current per National Electric Code rules.

If you want a sensor at both locations you need to install a IPP15-1L at the switch box that has the cable going to the light (load). One must then install a IPP0R-1L at the switch box that has the cable with hot from the breaker (line or source).

A Leviton DHC receiver device can look like any other switch or receptacle so if you didn't install it or not provided a map then you'll need to locate it.

Likely the wall switch that originally controlled the light was replaced with DHC device and paired with the 16400 at another location. If you can't identify it, then removing face plates and devices may be the only practical method to locate it.

If your not comfortable with removing devices safely, hire an electrician.

https://www.mc-mc.com/ASSETS/DOCUMENTS/ITEMS/EN/Decora_6375_Catalog.pdf

It's two single pole switches with a removable jumper on one side. With jumper intact, you connect the hot feed to a either screw of the jumper which I belive are brass colored screws.

Then the two induvidual switch poles are the silver screws. Connect fan motor to one and fan light to the other.

If that doesnt work for you, take a picture of the switch and connections and another of wires in fan box and post here.

https://www.leviton.com/sites/REST/controller/LCDownloadController/download/DI-000-VPT24-02F-W.pdf?docurl=/en/docs/DI-000-VPT24-02F-W.pdf Yes, but appears to be non-serviceable... and its probably just a 3.2vdc lithium coin battery inside the case yet they decided to make it so you have to buy a replacement every 10+yrs. Crack it open and see (dill off any rivet heads).

what do you know as "regular " bulbs are they low energy or incandescent