In the days before electronic speed controls, speed reduction was by a number of series resistors and at low speed there was a lack of torque. Professional mixers overcame the problem by using a multiratio gearbox that wouldn't disgrace a motorcycle or a small car.
Electronic speed control allowed speed feedback so when a load is applied and the motor slows, more current would be supplied tending to maintain the speed - not perfect by any means but usually much more efficient than the old system. I don't know the precise details how the system works but I expect that is where the fault is.
I am unfamiliar with the types of plug and socket you refer to - we use a different standard in the UK though the principle is identical.
An appliance with a metal body would usually require a ground connection though if the electrical parts are double insulated a ground connection could be deemed an unnecessary safety precaution.
Firstly is the rated voltage of the mixer the same as your supply? Assuming it is correct, is the power cord 2 core cable or 3 core?
If it is 2 core the mixer has a fault as the metal body should not be live (or hot).
If it is 3 core is is possible either the plug is internally connected wrongly, the power cord is connected wrongly inside the mixer or the mixer electrical system is faulty and your power outlet doesn't have an effective ground connection.
If your consumer unit (main fuse and breaker box) complies with modern standards, the ELCB or RCD should have tripped as soon as you plugged in your mixer.
My wife has the same model and the planetary unit fell off shortly after we bought it. Since we had moved overseas to a remote pacific island, getting it fixed under warranty was out of the question.
Since the rotary unit is a pressue fit, I pressed it back into place and it worked fine for about 3 months before I had to repeat the process. After that it became a monthly ritual.
I finally decided to fix it for good. What I did was drill a 3/8" hole in the center of the nub in the middle of the inverted rotary cover plate. I then drilled a 5/16" pilot hole in the center of the grooved shaft that the rotary cover plate presses onto. I then tapped that hole with a 18 NC tap. I was careful to tap it just a little shy of the depth of the cap screw that I was going to insert into the threaded hole so that it would jam as I tightened it. I then greased all the gears with a white machine grease and pressed the roary cover plate back onto the shaft. I then put a washer on a 5/16"-18 x 1" socekt head cap screw and clamped the thing together. It hasn't come off in the last 2 years.
While I am moderately skilled in this sort of thing it wasn't a precision operation. Since I was living in a fairly remote location with no shop, I did the entire operation on the kitchen counter using a handheld electric drill. Probably the hardest part was determining how deep to tap the shaft. I did it by trial and error. You can adjust the depth by using a washer or two of varying thicknesses.
I'm really surprised how lame a design using a press fit for this assembly is. They could easily prevent the problem by using my approach or even putting a cotter pin through the shaft and reciever tube in the rotary cover plate (a small hole would be needed in the side of the tube to set the cotter pin).
From what I've seen on the internet while looking for a solution, this is a fairly pervasive problem.
We thought we were buying a high quality machine that we thought would be reliable in our remote situation. Fortuantely, other than the falling rotary cover issue, the machine has worked great.
what do you mean by "slip"
the blades quit turning?
or slow down?
or lose power?
or out of alignment?
in other words how do you know they are "slipping"?
First I would find a repair depot for kitchen Aid and see if parts are still available for your model and if they will sell them to end users. They may also be able to help with a parts blowup diagram.
Worn carbon motor brushes typically cause motor sparking when you're running the mixer. Unplug the stand mixer and examine the motor brushes for wear. To remove a motor brush, use a screwdriver to unscrew the motor brush cap. Pull the cap and the carbon brush out.
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Hiya,
I am sorry to hear you are having problems with your machine.
It could be that your motor brushes have worn down too much or are not in the correct way. I have added a help link below which will show you how to remove and replace your motor brushes:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5YuS3atXR0M
I hope this helps you!!
Yes and isn't that the dumbest design for something like that. 3 screws when older models had 4 and no locating pegs where older models had 2. Great progress Kitchen Aid.
Make sure that the carbon brushes are free moving in the holders under the black caps, one on each side. Note that the brushes are "keyed" so that they will only fit and work one way. There is a blocker at the bottom of the brush holder that is to be lined up with the corner of the carbon brush that's been shaved off. Use a torch and remember to unplug the power before you start. Next thing to look at are the wires and switch contacts underneath the back cover.
Hello there,
Sorry to hear you are experiencing an issue with your appliance. If you have a KitchenAid Tilthead mixer, please see the attached link with
