Kohler 100-Amp Automatic Transfer Switch - RDT-CFNA-0100A - Page 9 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

hi it sounds like to me that you need to check your valve clearances. It sounds like as the engine warms up, the metal expands and the valves then do not close fully, hence the miss. The engine cools and the metal contracts, valve clearance is good, engine runs fine. Check the tolerances right before you start the engine, then after it starts to miss.
JOe

I had same problem and to make a long story short, it wasn't any common problems like oil pressure switch, etc. Solution was the start stop coil/ ignition coil. Looks like a 1" ice cube behind the panel and it usually (not always) has a tattle tail indicating failure.

Aux fault is caused by a momentary loss of voltage from the speed sensor or low coolant level sensor. I would suggest you investigate both for possible cause.
If the unit has a low coolant level sensor you can find it near the top of radiator, small two wire plug. Disconnect and see if unit runs. make sure radiator is filled to over flowing before testing to eliminate this as the cause. Just because you can see or feel the coolant is not enough, fill to overflowing is the key.

The first thing I would do is to clean and dry air filter. If it is a foam material you can use a warm water and a few drops of dish soap.Rinse thoroughly and let dry. I also would try a small amount of octane booster in my gas. Hope this helps you.

1. First you must clean it all, especialy the generator, windings, AVR etc. if it was wet with sea water (better do it with fresh water or electro-clean, than other liquids). Then you should dry it well (with a hot blower) for about, but not less than 24 hours, before starting.
2. If you already started it wet, or it got wet while running, you may have some parts burned, with low insulation of cables, windings etc. Check the AVR, rings and brushes (if any) and other electronic boards for visualy burned elements or check the semiconductor elements (diodes and transistors) for proper qualities.
3. You should check the gen. windings insulation resistence to hull (gen. iron) [all stator and rotor windings]. It should be more than 100 kOhm in order to let you start the generator motor.
4. When dry and clean, with no burned elements you can start the engine. If it reaches its normal speed - measure the voltage on generator terminals, if it is OK check the connections (breakers, fuses) to the distribution panel. If it is very low under 30 V AC, the problem may be in AVR (Auto Voltage Reg. - Field DC supply)
5. If the voltage is under 10 V AC, you may need to recharge the magnetic field with a 12 V battery connected shortly to field terminals - +/- respected.

If you fulfil these instructions and you need more help, please ask as an answer to this solution or on my e-mail: [email protected].
Please give some information about your generator: is it 5ECD, 5EKD or some other - then give some more details about it.

whats is the model and ser # i will check my diagrams

readjust the valves to eliminate the backfire so it will start

You didn't list model number, but I'd check the oil pressure switch and any other safetys in the circuit. Kohler makes a wide range of genaerators from small ot very large.

The rpm sensing in the control module is missing or bad.
Answer these questions for more details:

1. Does your generator output normal voltage?
2. Is the starter turning after the Gen is running?
3. Is the charging of the battery connected?

Can't search for a manual without model, type, serial, etc numbers...

A few things to take a look at:

1) Oil level / pressure sending unit. This is normally bypassed as long as the start switch is pressed. When engine starts, and switch is released, engine will die if sending unit is defective, or you are low on oil.

2) Exhaust temperature sensors. Older units were notorious for burning these up.

3) Cooling Water Temperature sensor. These cause trouble often, but mostly due to water pump impeller being eaten away by galvanic action and not able to pump water as effecively. End result is water temp higher than normal, which trips the switch, which kills the engine.

4) Alternator (generator) output not as it should. If output doesn't rise to proper level within a few seconds of engine start, the engine will be shut down.

5) Choke not working as it should

6) Bad fuel, bad fuel pump, clogged fuel filter.

The pickup tube in the craft's fuel tank has likely worked loose and dropped into the tank. The generator lost its "straw" that it needs to siphon fuel through.

Check for intermittent oil pressure switch. Monitor the possibility of low oil pressure shutdown.

Check for a low lube oil sensor problem first. Could be low oil pressure or a failed sensor. The sensor is timed and if pressure doesn't come up, then unit is shutdown.

Check fuel filter and also air leaks in the fuel supply lines.

Check if the fuel shutoff solenoid is responsible for the shutdown. If it closes just before the engine quits, then it is being commanded to shutdown, probably as a safety interlock.

Is Outlet Switch in the ON position?

Kohler has an entire technical library on their website. Go to Kohler.com and you will find it. good luck

Yes

No one gives sizing. https://generatorguru.com/spark-plug-27901063/ https://www.google.com/search?q=united+power+generator+Model+GG2900+parts ..

https://cleanestor.com/how-to-clean-up-freon/?expand_article=1 This should help

Consult a qualified electrician.

Your instruction manual should have that information. https://www.manualslib.com/