Electric Intermatic T171 24 HOURS 40 AMPS 125 VAC 1 SINGLE ELECTRIC TIMER SWITCH - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

this is a link to the wiring diagram, hope this helps, glad to help you more txt 865-888-1220 https://www.intermatic.com/-/media/inriver/10157-9158.ashx/T171-Instructions-EN

815-675-7000

That kiln requires a 30 amp circuit, minimum. 24 amps x 125%= 30 amps per National Electric Code (NEC).

Without more info, I'll need to make a few assumptions. For the sake of estimating the cost I'll present the following scenario:

1...The distance from your electric panel to the pergola is approximately 100 feet.

2...The circuit will be underground. I'll assume that you will be able to hire someone to dig an 18 inch deep trench from the electric panel to the pergoda for $10 hr. While this should only take 3 or 4 hrs, depending on soil conditions, it could take all day. So I'll assume $80 for this.

3...This will be a 240 volt, 30 amp circuit (see why below).

4...Since you posted under the Intermatic T171, and since that is a 120 volt timer, that the kiln is 120 volts.

5...Unless the pergoda is fully enclosed, NEC still requires a weatherproof installation.

For starters, I don't recommend a 120 volt kiln. Most people I've known who had a kiln always seemed to want a bigger one ;-) Again, I'll do the estimate for a 240 volt, 30 amp kiln, as the price difference compared to a 120 volt circuit is about the same.

Also, I strongly recommend using 3/4 inch PVC conduit as opposed to 1/2 inch PVC or UF (direct burial) cable. 3/4 inch conduit doesn't cost much more than 1/2 conduit and will allow you to install wire up to #6. UF cable, in my opinion, is out of the question because if you ever decide that you want a larger kiln the direct buried UF cable is _not_ easily replaceable. A conduit and wire installation is about the same price as UF anyway.

Here's the breakdown (US dollars):

$ 10 - 30 amp, 2-pole circuit breaker
120 - 300 feet of #10 THWN COPPER wire (40 cents a foot)
20 - 1 bundle (100 feet) 3/4 inch PVC conduit
10 - 3/4 inch PVC elbows, fittings, straps
20 - Weatherproof box and weatherproof cover
+15 - 30 amp receptacle
______
$195
+100 - 2 hrs labor @ $50 hr. (possibly 3 hrs.)
______
$295
+80 - labor for trench
______
$375
+140 - Intermatic T172R (weatherproof) 240 volt timer
______
$515

Other considerations are that, if indeed, the circuit is 100 feet, you should consider using a #8 THWN COPPER wire to account for voltage drop (add $60, @ 60 cents a foot) Using a #10 wire at that distance may not allow the kiln to get to the desired temperature.

If you are anticipating things like lights, 120 volt receptacles, fans and such, the best way to do all that is to install a subpanel at the pergoda.

That should get you in the ball park as far as price. Of course, you can make adjustments accordingly. Remember that prices can vary greatly depending upon geographic location. Also, if you call a contractor for an estimate, _after_ they give you the price, _then_ ask how much they will knock off if you dig the trench.

A contractor price of $600 would not be unreasonable.

Hope this helps.

The 2 silver stops with thumb screw are the stop & start indicators. Loosen thumb screws adjust start & stop times. Tighten.

Insure the motor wires are hooked to the line in and nuetral posts of the timer. If they are and the timer can be triggered manually then the motor is burned out. If the timer cannot be triggered manually check the breakers at your electrcal panel to see if the one of them may be tripped that supplies the power to the timer.

Good Luck

Question edited for a lot more clarity. There is a video that might help, but there is no conversion kit. What some people do it remove the recoil start and use an impact driver or electric drill with a socket that fits the bolt on the end of the crankshaft. https://www.google.com/search?q=Steele+GG600N+generator+convert+to+electric+start

It requires a 2 pole ganged breaker to meet code and guarantee the breaker is on two legs of the single split phase service. That in itself doesn't explain the 120 volts at the heater element.

Replace the two single breakers with the appropriate 2 pole ganged breaker. Before connecting the feed to the heater, turn on the ganged breaker and measure voltage across the breaker. If not 240VAC then there is a problem at the breaker panel.

If there's 240 at the breaker then you've somehow wired the thermostat incorrectly but can't imagine what you did.

This is probably close enough. You planned maintenance will also need a full carburettor strip down and clean. count the turns on jetting screws. Screw IN and count the turns to a gentle stop say 2 1/4 turns, then remove and clean with carburettor spray. The float valve in the bottom is likely to be glued shut. https://www.baldor.com/Shared/manuals/2412-404.pdf https://www.google.com/search?q=%22Powerchief%22+6500+CL+manual ..

It may be possible but parts alone would make it cost prohibitive.

It would require a flywheel, alternator, rectifier, starter, battery, ignition switch, cables, and misc. plus labor.

There is a board that controls that where the outlets ect is located at

Normally there is a protection fuse between the low voltage charge winding and the regulator, that may be blown if the battery voltage does not hovver at about 13.8 volts when running otherwise the regulator itself may be faulty. A standard small battery charger runnibg off the power will keep you going until it is repaired.

cookers usually use a thermal fuse close to the heating element fuses range from 150c to 190c.once you find the fuse check it with an ohmeter it should have continuty. the thermal value should be printed on the fuse.

Likely a motor capacitor is failing causing excess current (heat) in the motor windings. Does the motor get hot?

OR, a poor connection in the motor start or run circuit either at the centrifugal switch or the capacitors. A loose connection may overheat and emit a burnt resin odor.

Regardless, you'll want to fix it ASAP as it will likely only get worse resulting in higher repair cost.

check out put with meter or tester - check connections and ground --check line for break or debris

TRY THE MANUFACTURER

When you say breaker, presumably you refer to an RCD? The residual current device will trip if the amount of current in the hot wire does not equal the amount of current in the neutral or return wire. This means some current is leaking away which means the chainsaws might have developed a potentially dangerous fault or might just be the result of an excess of damp sawdust entering the motor housing through the vents - or damp has entered the tools by other means. I find a compressed airline useful for keeping power tools internally clean and dry.

You need to use rated breaker and did you find a fault for why the breaker shorted?

In the electric windows of - what - ?

It cannot be connected to 120 volt ... this is a 12 volt photoeye that integrates into the screw terminals on power pack. Following link has some basic information for connecting the photoeye http://waterheatertimer.org/Malibu-power-pack-stopped-working.html#troubleshoot