Top 20 Lutron GRX-TVI Grafik Eye 10 Volt Interface Questions & Answers

hi find out the what voltage value of the led ( are they ac. or dc. ) and upon those findings you buy the dimmer switch for dimming

Yes the Juno will work great with the Lutron interface. I have hooked up many together and have not had a problem yet with them. Have not been called back to any job yet that I put them in on.

you must have an led dimming controller also wired to grxtvi 0-10v

You're in a difficult position for which I see few options --- none of them ideal. Short of replacing all your switches and wall plates in a matching color of your choice, a cheaper option might be to find a satin spray paint in or near-enough to your color and gently spraying the new dimmer(s) to match. Alternatively, Eaton makes LED dimmers in "Desert Sand" (but whether their Desert Sand looks anything like Lutron's is beyond me).

Is original a 3-way dimmer (2 or more switches control same light fixture)?

The only device rated for a motor load is the RRD-8ANS and itequires a neutral connect.

To clarify you have a gang of 3 fans you want to control from more than 2 locations (3 or more existing wall switch boxes)?

Halogen work with AC or DC voltage ... 12 volt LED bulbs are DC. Check that transformer delivers DC, or buy 100 watt IP67 LED driver. Keep in mind the lutron DV-600 is rated for incandescent and halogen loads, and may not function as expected when connected to inductive load like transformer or driver.

I take it you don't want to just remove the upstairs 3 way switch and wirenut the 3 wires together and put a blank cover plate over the box<?>. Need to know more info. Does the upstairs box have 3 wires only? If no, then likely you will not be able to abandon the upstairs switch box as it will need to remain as an active junction box. If yes, then it becomes a rather lengthy procedure (textual). I'll sketch it out but need an answer the number of wires in upstairs box. Comment below so I may assist further.

There are a lot of DIVA models and you did not post the model number. There are multple configurations and wiring methods.

Lights require a minimum voltage. Reset minimum to a brighter level.

yes it does,

You might look to see if the outlet is GFI protected. It is possible the GFI (Ground Fault Interrupter) tripped and needs to be reset. If so, push the red button (reset button) firmly until it stays down (pushed in). If it does not stay closed, replace it. Also check your light bulb fed by "the switch that does not work", to make sure it did not burn out. Your switch could be good, but the bulb bad. If your light switch is not on a GFI circuit and both Lutron switches are fed by one breaker, get a volt-ohm meter, set it to the volts in a voltage range to read house hold voltage (around 121 volts), and check to see that both switches are receiving 121 volts. Usually you measure with the black probe touching a white (neutral) wire, while the black wire is usually the wire that is in series with the lamp. A black wire may come into the switch and leave as a black wire going to the bulb. If you do not have full voltage reaching your switch, you may have a wiring problem where a wire is no longer making good contact. If you are not sure about how to test with a volt meter, search on your tube for further explanations on how to test to see if a light switch is good.

It sounds like you blew the triac (the electronic switch) in the light. You will need to get a replacement module or a new light. Sometimes lightning will cause this. If it was a tungsten lamp they can have a large current surge when it fails.

Not sure if you can just splice the extra wires together. The ballast information is what matters converting to just on-off, not the finger switchswitch

Let's start at the beginning please. You have a source cable fed into an overhead outlet box or to a switch outlet box on the wall? This is critical because it tells me what kind of arrangement you actually have. If the source is in the ceiling, then you are using switch loops and the wiring gets tricky because you have to "re-task" the Neutral (White) wire (Assuming you are here in the U.S.A.) that goes to the switch because it will become the feed to the wall switch. However, is the feed is at the switch, then it is much simpler. Please let me know what you have in the form of wiring. Also as an FYI, if you are using special switches, you may have to have equipment grounding conductor present at the switch. The electrical code no longer allows the use of a Neutral (White) conductor as a grounding conductor.

You could do that but it would not be up to the electrical code requirements. Take the old one out and remove the wire nuts and put the new one in. There should be a ground wire stuffed in the box somewhere. Unless the house is really old. You connect the ground wire to the bare ones in the box.

On single-phase wiring systems, the neutral and ground wires are connected to the same bus bar in the circuit breaker panel (thus they are the same potential). So it should work that way, although it may not be up to local electrical codes.

The power supply for the led's may not be dimmable. Not sure if this dimmer is for led but I assume that's why you bought it.

Often led s hesitate even with single pole switch. It's probably not the dimmer. Led s get powered from a transformer inside the fixture and it just takes a second for them to get going. I've found its not consistant. The same two recessed lights have different start up times.

it shouldn't get hot like that with only 660 watts. are you sure that is total wattage??? if so there is a problem somewhere in the circuit