20 Most Recent Leviton 8299 Combination Switch / Smart lock GFCI Outlet - Page 7 Questions & Answers

You cannot wire dimmers in series and expect circuit to operate.
Problem is not 100% clear. Add a comment and include more information.

1) You have 12 dimmers.
Each dimmer has 2 black wires and a green ground wire.
The 2 black wires tell electrician that the dimmer wires are reversible.
One black dimmer wire connects to Hot from breaker, and the other black wire connects to wire going to Load (halogen lights).
If power passes through each dimmer going to next dimmer, the circuit will not work.

2) Unknown what you are replacing. Are you replacing 12 switches with 12 dimmers? Or maybe replacing 1 switch with 12 dimmers.
Number and type of devices being replaced is not known. And wires to each of these dimmers is not known.

3) You have a single 14-2 wire going to all 14 dimmers? Or does each dimmer have a different 14-2 wire?

4) You want to wire dimmers in series? So you want power to flow through one dimmer and control next dimmer?
You cannot wire dimmers in this manner and expect circuit to operate.
You can wire ordinary switches in series, but not dimmers.

5) Typically dimmers and switches are wired in parallel.
The Hot wire connects to one wire on each dimmer.
Since your dimmer has 2 black wires, the hot connects to either black wire on dimmer.
Then a jumper wire is added to connection, and the jumper wire carries power to next dimmer, and so on.
In this manner, each dimmer receives 120V potential. And then wire going to load connects to other black wire on each dimmer.

Your best bet is to give Leviton a call to help them troubleshoot it. The challenge is that I can think of a number of reasons why this may happen.

1) Electrical power issues - some lighting control products can respond poorly to electrical noise (if you turn on a hair dryer or motor, sometimes the electrical noise it generates can travel through the power wires and effect the dimmer's performance). I actually kind of doubt its the case because if the device shuts off and STAYS off, usually the dimmer's power failure memory would kick it back into gear, and it sounds like its not doing that, so...

2) Loose connection in the back. Some of those dimmers have an addition wire (or screw) attached to them to provide multi-location dimming. If that wire/screw is touching another connector (or a grounded backbox), it can fool the dimmer into thinking its supposed to do something (like turn off).

3) Touch panel environmental issues. Some of their digital dimmers are 'touch' dimmers, and they can be impacted by the environment. There are several ways in which the devices work, but generally speaking, when you hit "a button," you are either affecting the enviornment around the dimmer or the dimmer leaks current through your body, and the dimmer uses that change in its environment to detect the button press. Regardless, if this is an a high-humidity area, or if its near an air-condition, or possibly heater, fan, something like that - its possible that something is "fooling" it.

But again, these are all guesses. I would call their tech support center for sure.

bonk66-

I suggest you try your local hardware store...

DIYpro

Disconnect the green wire from the black wires. The green should only be connected to either a green wire in the box or to the box itself.
Gary

Everything I have ever seen about this is that the Q2010LT is similar enough to be used as a replacement for the X25783.

http://www.littelfuse.com/searchresults.html?Ntt=q2010lt

If this is for a 50 amp 250 volt outlet, you should have 1 green screw and two brass screws. The ground/bare wire goes on the green, and the white and black go on the other two. does not matter which one is where

Turn off the power to the receptacle that will be replaced by switching off the circuit breaker in the fuse box. Check that the battery is good in a circuit tester. If not, replace the battery. Place the tester's two ends in one set of the receptacle's slots, then the other set. The light on the tester should not come on. If it does, the correct circuit breaker has not been switched off.

2

Take off the receptacle's face plate by first removing its screw. Detach the two screw securing the receptacle to the box and pull out the receptacle. Loosen the receptacle's terminal screws and pull away all wires from the back of the receptacle. Take out the receptacle (if working properly, it can be reused). If the ends of the wires are chewed up after removing them from the existing receptacle, cut them off with wire cutters. Strip off 1/2 an inch of insulation from the ends, using wire strippers. Bend them into loops with the pliers.

3

Bend the copper ends of all wires into a loop, using a pliers. Connect the white wires to the silver terminal and tighten the screw to the wires. Connect the black wires to the gold terminal and tighten the screw to the wires. Connect the bare ground wires to the ground terminal and tighten the screw to the wires.

4

Push all cables into the back of the box, followed by the receptacle. Attach the receptacle to the box with the two screws. Hold the new faceplate in position and install the screw. Turn on the power at the circuit breaker.

HOPE THIS HELPS YOU...Jim...Please leave a comment

Some switches are not designed to work with the florescent bulbs. It's a matter of them trying to push a starter for the light. Check the package and see if it's compatible.

The wiring for the overhead light is the same as for the outlet. I don't know what wires you have in the box where you will be putting this switch, but I will assume the simplest case. The box should have 3 sets of wires. Each set has a white, a black and a ground. One set is hot, coming from the main panel. One set goes to the light. The third set goes to the outlet. Connect all three ground wires together and to the ground lug on the switch. Connect all three white wires together, but not to the switch. Your switch will have 4 terminal screws. On one side of the switch, two of the screws should be connected together with a little metal bar. Connect the hot black wire from the panel to one of the two screws that are connected together. (the other screw is not used). Connect your black wire for the light to one of the screws on the other side of the switch. Connect your black wire for the outlet to the last remaining screw. Be safe. good luck. Let me know if you found this helpful. Al K

Leviton T5625 has shutter (tamper resistant) mechanism that blocks access to the contacts unless a two-prong plug is inserted. My understanding is this mechanism prevents child from sticking piece of metal into receptacle and getting shocked. Tamper resistant receptacles are code for new home construction, and receptacle is marked with TR. The light switch part of device works at all times, with or without two-prong plug in receptacle.
http://www.leviton.com/OA_HTML/ibeCCtpItmDspRte.jsp?item=388754§ion=24614&minisite=10026

Electricians test, they don't guess.

Let's test your wires using ordinary two-prong tester.
Tape wood sticks to tester leads to keep hands away from power. Stand on dry surface or wood boards. Do not shake or sweat.
Separate wires for testing
Turn power ON.
Test each wire to bare ground wire.
Tester lights up on Hot wire. Hot wire connects to either dark-colored screw, as long as there is a brass connector plate that connects both dark colored screws. If connector plate is missing, add a jumper wire between both dark screws so they are connected together.
Hot wire is identified.
Now test Hot wire to each other wire, except bare ground wire.
Tester lights up on neutral wire. Neutral wire connects to silver screw.
If neutral wire is white wire, AND both white wires were connected together before, then they both connect to silver screw.
The last wire is the Load wire that goes to fan, light, motor. Load wire connects to brass colored screw.
Double check instructions with instructions on new device.
Add a comment any time.

You can also take advantage of fixya phone service.
For a price, fixya expert speaks to you over the phone while you test and wire the device.

Yes you secure that GREEN wire to EARTH, that bare wire and screw will do just fine.

A dimmer usually goes "IN" the PHASE line, BLACK, and in Series with any "Load" usually there is One Black IN from the Main Power, the Other, an OUT BLACK, still Phase, this side goes to the "Hot" side "Load". The "Other" side of the "Load" is called the "Cold" side, and that goes to neutral.and the circuit is complete.

It looks like the old one was IN on Black, and OUT on White. White went to hot side of load...the other wire is hooked up to the main Phase wire..supply..

black to brass colored screws /white to silver screws /green is ground

I am having the same trouble in my church with two nsi/leviton dimmers. Wide horizontal bar created on video screen during dimming. No bar at 100% or off, just anywhere in between.

The dimmer isn't a straight resistor, its an R-C timing circuit, and the caps within that circuit are going to mess up any resistance measurement you're trying to make. The R-C circuit is there as a timing mechanism to determinine the duty cycle on/off time of the dimmer. It is because of that, that I recommend you try to not use a light-dimmer for a soldering iron - the dimmers are not resistive rheostats, they're light switches (on and off @ 120-times a second). Depending upon the nature of the soldering iron, that may cause some harmful problems.

Review old switches:
Two old switches > each has 2 wires
Old switch 1 > Red and White
Old switch 2 > Black and White
The same white wire connects to both switches, so effectively they count as 1 wire
This means you have 3 wires ... 1 White, 1 Red, 1 Black
Each switch controls a separate load (light, fan, motor)

New Leviton double-rocker switch:
-Leviton has 2 Brass-colored screws on one side, and these screws are connected together by a brass plate >> your Hot wire will connect to brass screw
-Leviton has 2 Silver-colored screws on other side, and neither of these screws are connected in any way >> the wires going to each load will connect on a different screw on this side of switch.

Hot wire: Each box in your house has exactly 1 hot wire that is connected back to breaker box. This is true for all boxes (excluding boxes that have a 3-way & 4-way switches).
We need to identify Hot wire.

-By code the Hot wire is black for identification purposes ... but your box sounds like maybe the Hot wire is White.
-If your Hot wire is white, that is NOT an immediate safety issue ... it will not cause a fire or malfunction ... it is a code violation ... because code requires things be uniform so next electrician knows what previous guy did. So some day, electrician working outside grabs wrong color wire, and wow. I say this so you know.

Moving on.

Identify Hot wire:
-Pull 3 wires up so they can be tested
-Turn on power
-Use ordinary tester, or old lamp with plug cut off and wires stripped back
-Tape tester lead to sticks so hands are away from voltage
-Power is on. Don't stand in water or touch metal pipes, and you're fine.
-You have 3 wires in box + ground wire
-Test all 3 wires to bare ground wire >> when tester lights up, that is Hot wire ... testing is complete

Connect wires to Leviton double-rocker:
-Power is OFF.
-You have 3 wires - 1 White, 1 Black, 1 Red >> one is Hot wire, the other two wires go to load
-Hot wire connects to Brass-colored screws on new Leviton.
-Brass colored screws are connected together by a brass plate so the Hot does not need to connect to both brass screws.
-The other two wires connect to Silver screws on other side of new Leviton switch
-One wire goes to each silver screw
-Connect bare ground wire to green screw.
-Push wires back into box. Use eraser end of pencil if needed.
-Make sure ground wire is back and away from screws on switch
-That's it.

what type of dimmer switch is it.

If there is an electrical specialty store in your area, i would remove the switch and take it there. They may be able to help in either replacing or rebuilding it. That sort of control is not difficult to recreate, but it is an uncommon feature. A good electronics tech can show you how and get you the parts to do it. i am NOT talking about Radio Shack. i mean a mom and pop shop that specializes in electrical and electronics.

i hope this helps
matthew

Questions to answer so I can answer/resolve your problem:

1) Is this a rotary style dimmer?
2) Is it a toggle or slider type?
3) Is this on a 3-way circuit (that has 2 or more switches that can turn the lights on or off)
4) Is this on a single switch circuit?
5) Is this a brand new dimmer switch?
6) Is this an old dimmer switch?
7) Are the light bulbs in the spots regular incandesant or halogen bulbs?
8) Are the light bulbs in the spots CFL (compact flouresent lamps)?

With this information, I can tell you what the problem is:

If you answer "YES" to #1, and or #6 then the dimmer is faulty and should be replaced.

If you answer "YES" to #8, then you have the wrong dimmer for the bulb type, as CFL's require a specific dimmer type in order to dim them.

Please provide some more info and maybe we can help you figure out what's wrong.

Hope you find this Very Helpful and best regards!

One side of the switch has Brass screws, and the other has nickle screws. there is usually a small brass bridge between the upper, and lower switch screws on the brass screw side. if you are feeding both from a common power source leave the little brass bridge in place, and screw on of the screws in all the way. Put the energised wire under the other brass screw. Bare copper wire goes to the green screw. The power will be transferred to the nickle screws through the corresponding switch. put the wire to the fan on one, and the light on the other. Presto.