20 Most Recent Leviton 8299 Combination Switch / Smart lock GFCI Outlet - Page 3 Questions & Answers

yes, take the white wires off the switches and splice them all together with a wire nut. Run a hot wire to each of the switches and then run the switch leg (black) from each of the fixtures to be controlled to each of the dimmers.

If the two load screws are connected with a tab that is the power in side. The color wires are the load.

Seems to be a common problem, you're not alone ( read amazon 1 star reviews). They are $22.00 so you will to dispose of it, if Leviton will not warranty it.

http://www.cooperindustries.com/content/dam/public/wiringdevices/products/documents/instruction_sheets/ri06p_ri06pl_ri061_ri306p_ri306pl_ri101_instructions.pdf

the 5641 is a dual switch for three way and single pole. If you want the switches to operate the CF. Connect the power to one of the two screws on the right side as you face the switch. then connect one wire to the screw on the bottom left side. connect the other screw to one of the two screws on the top left. This assumes the Red and Black you mentioned are the switch legs going to the CF.

You need to verify if there are two wires coming to the wall switch from the receptacle. One should be power in, the other should be power out to the receptacle.

Your description doesn't explain the circuit, the function of the wires or how the switch controls the outlet and whether the switch is a single pole or two-pole switch. Without such details it is difficult to visualise the circuit. I advise before you go further to test the sensor in a known good and correctly wired outlet using a length of cable and a suitable plug for the outlet. It is possible the unit is faulty. If it functions correctly on test you will need to understand the circuit and the function of the wires before you rewire it to assure success.

You MUST to interrupt the circuit between the the power source and the lamps. The switch is in series with the lamps that are in parallel as shown below:

http://www.automanualparts.com/wiring-diagram-for-3-way-switch-with-dimmer/ use above link

The lower priced dimmers are only rated for 400 Watts. If your switch is controlling more than 400 Watts, then you have a problem--with a potential fire waiting to happen. Add up the wattage of each light bulb you are controlling with the switch to determine if you have less or more than 400 Watts. They do make dimmers rated for up to 1000 Watts. If the problem isn't wattage, I suspect you may be using your dimmer to control a motor (like a ceiling fan motor). If this is the case, you have the wrong kind of switch: one designed for lighting, not motors. They do make dimmers designed for motors; they don't buzz when you dial them down.

If the load on the dimmer exceeds 600W you're in trouble. If not, then it's simply dissipating heat (the larger capacity dimmer would also dissipate heat, though would be set up for more heat and feel cooler than the new dimmer).

Try changing the code in both switches to the next available number. Some one nearby may have set their lights to work off the same code and thus activating yours as well. As to replacements, just google cat# 6319-2. lots of options.

Has it always been this way or have you recently replaced switches? Regardless, this is typical of the 3way switches being wired incorrectly. One of the travelers and the common are swapped. If you changed the switches it is important that the wires go back on the correct terminals. NOT NECESSARILLY THE SAME PLACE ON THE SWITCH AS THE OLD ONE. The wire that went to the brass screw on the old switch (common) should go to the Com. screw (brass)on the new switch. The remaining 2 wires (travelers) should attach to the remaining screws. Doesn't matter which, just 1 wire to each screw. Both switches should be wired the same way.

This site can give you the support (oper. man. and spec sheet) youi need to correct this problem.Electrical devices lighting controls network solutions Leviton com

While standing at the switches (outside the room) turn each switch on until the light is activated. You need not be in the room to see the light operating.

I believe the switch is the same as an X10 switch (WS467). I have interchanged the two in the past. They are also available on ebay.

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