20 Most Recent Leviton 8299 Combination Switch / Smart lock GFCI Outlet - Page 2 Questions & Answers

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This ordinary switch-outlet combo.
One side of device: there are dark screws on one side of device: Black hot wire from circuit breaker connects to either dark screw. The dark screws are connected by a brass plate, so both screws are identical.
Other side of device: there are silver and brass screws.
Wire going to Load (light fan motor) connects to brass screw.
White neutral wire connects to silver screw.

Here's how to test for Hot and Neutral wires.
Separate all wires for testing.
Turn on power.
Test each wire to bare ground wire.
Tester lights up on Hot wire >> this wire will connect to dark colored screw.
Now you have identified Hot wire >> test hot wire to other wires (excluding bare ground).
Tester lights up on Neutral > this wires connects to silver screw.
Final wire goes to Load and connects to brass screw

If I remember right this switch has two Line terminals (silver)(brass) two load terminals (silver)(brass) and two switch terminals. Assuming you have located the incoming line, and one of your cables goes to another load ( one or more other receptacles) you would connect that cable to the load side (white-silver) black(brass) as you stated. Now to switch the light, if you don't want it GFCI protected, connect it's neutral(white) to the incoming line terminal (silver) Then connect a short jumper from the incoming (brass) terminal to one of the switch terminals. Connect the other wire to light (black) to the other switch terminal. If you can reach the light from the floor, then connect these wires to the load side of the GFCI and it will then be ground fault protected.

First you must determine which wires in the box are LINE and which are LOAD. Remove the wire nut from the two white wires and separate them. The LINE wires are the black and white wires that come from your breaker box. The LOAD wires are the black and white wires that go to the fan. You can determine this easily with a non-contact voltage detector (about $15). Or temporarily hook up a black & white pair to a lamp. In either case, make sure the exposed wires won't be touched and turn on the breaker for your test.
I will assume that you want the GFCI to protect the fan. Refer the picture (Back View) in the upper right corner of the front side (page 1) of the instruction sheet. If you lost the instruction sheet, you can find it on this page: http://www.leviton.com/OA_HTML/ibeCCtpItmDspRte.jsp?item=417265&section=11624&minisite=10021 Connect your black LINE wire to the upper right (LINE, brass) terminal. Connect your white LINE wire to the upper left (LINE , silver) terminal. Remove the yellow tape that covers the load terminals. Connect your white LOAD wire to the lower left (LOAD, silver) terminal Connect your black LOAD wire to one of the two switch leads with a wire nut. Connect the other switch lead to the lower right (LOAD, brass) terminal.

By two wires if you mean just a black and white wire then this is a switch leg and you cannot use this switch at this location. All you have here is the power coming in on the black wire an leaving on the white wire. The switch just breaks the flow of electricity. An outlet cannot be used here because there is no neutral wire. This is how a switch leg is wired.
If you have something different post back.

Can you tell me where the outgoing wires are going to. Bare wire is ground goes in green color screw, white wire is neutral and goes in silver color screw, black wire is hot or live and goes in gold color screw. It is difficult to help you with little information. how do you know what is incoming and outgoing.

First, turn off the power to this circuit to avoid getting a shock.

If the two devices that are controlled by the combination switch are lights, you will want to join the two (2) white (neutral) wires together with a wire nut, as these are not connected to the switch.

You also want to connect the bare copper wires (ground) together and connect one of them to the switch's green grounding screw and IF the wall box is metal, you also need to attach the ground wire to the box with a green grounding screw.

Now, you can connect the wires that go to your lights, the red and black wires that are part of the same wire and are routed to the same location thru the wall box. Take either the black or red and connect them to the screws on the side of switch that are not connected together with the small brass strip between them. Put the red on one of these screws and the black on the other.

Now with the black wire that is the hot (Common), this is the one that is bringing power into the wall box, should be connected to the other side of the switch, the one with the two (2) screws that are joined together with the brass strip between them.

This will allow you to turn on and off each of the lights (or a fan, etc) separately with each switch sharing the common power source.

Here's a picture of the switch that shows the side of the switch with the common side and the brass strip that connects the screws together. This is the side where the one black (hot / common) wire that supplies the power gets connected.

http://www.leviton.com/OA_HTML/ibeCCtpItmDspRte.jsp?item=8935&section=10070

You can also open up the box the switch came in and you'll find a wiring diagram for the switch that illustrates how to properly wire the switch for your application.

I hope you find this Very Helpful and best regards!

Not if you want it to work correctly. If you have 2 switches controlling one circuit, they have to be a 3-way, more than 2 switches, it must be a 4-way. The black screw is the only one that matters on wiring, it will go to line or load, the other 2 screws go to the control wires and can go in any order. Obviously ground should be on green. And make sure the breaker is turned off during this process. I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/josh_87ce33216d7b2148

that is truly a strange problem, has there been any rewiring going on? almost seems that it wired in a series instead of a paralell circuit and the end one completes the circuit when something is plugged in. i am not sure how to tell to fix this other than to go thru the whole circuit.

at the gfci the line side, or the hot wires supplying it should be hooked up to the line side of the gfci. the wires feeding the rest of ur outlets should be connected to the load side of the gfci.

then at each outlet the hot wires both line and load should be hooked up to the brass or gold looking screws and the neutrals should be hooked up to the silver screws. this way u should have power on all the outlets.

first try putting the red and black together and the whites together...turn on power, if the lamp lights all the time then keep reading, (if not you need find out which is hot and which is going to the lamp this can get complicated if the color code is not followed)
find out if the blk is hot all the time or if the red is hot you need a tester for this. its easier to make a double pig tail on the hot wire and put one of the pigtails on one side of the switch and the other on the BRASS screw on the recpt. now put the other wire (red or blk) on the other side of the switch no pig tail. then tie the whites together with a single pigtail and put the pig tail on the SILVER side of the recpt. make sure you tie in a ground as well or the GFI will not work. hope this helps

I got one from Home Depot about a year ago...........check there - they have lots of different types of switches.

It sounds like the threads are stripped. I would return it and get an exchange

Taking into account the category you posted in I will assume you are trying to hook up a light fixture, if that is the case a light is like a fuse when you connect the two wires you are actually making a short from one wire to the other, with that being said even though the National Electrical Code says the wire connected to the outside of the bulb (screw in part) is the neutral (white) and the center connector is hot (black). You could hook it up backwards and not damage anything.

If you are working on a switch, it's simple. A switch is just a continuation of a circuit. Simply if you put the two wires going to a switch together whatever you had connected to it would come on, therefore placement of those wires is not important.

Hope I helped...
Tim

You parallel the contacts then either one or both will turn it on. Both have to be off for the fan to stop.

A Leviton DHC receiver device can look like any other switch or receptacle so if you didn't install it or not provided a map then you'll need to locate it.

Likely the wall switch that originally controlled the light was replaced with DHC device and paired with the 16400 at another location. If you can't identify it, then removing face plates and devices may be the only practical method to locate it.

If your not comfortable with removing devices safely, hire an electrician.

https://www.mc-mc.com/ASSETS/DOCUMENTS/ITEMS/EN/Decora_6375_Catalog.pdf

It's two single pole switches with a removable jumper on one side. With jumper intact, you connect the hot feed to a either screw of the jumper which I belive are brass colored screws.

Then the two induvidual switch poles are the silver screws. Connect fan motor to one and fan light to the other.

If that doesnt work for you, take a picture of the switch and connections and another of wires in fan box and post here.

https://www.leviton.com/sites/REST/controller/LCDownloadController/download/DI-000-VPT24-02F-W.pdf?docurl=/en/docs/DI-000-VPT24-02F-W.pdf Yes, but appears to be non-serviceable... and its probably just a 3.2vdc lithium coin battery inside the case yet they decided to make it so you have to buy a replacement every 10+yrs. Crack it open and see (dill off any rivet heads).

what do you know as "regular " bulbs are they low energy or incandescent

adjust the sensitivity switch

Replace it. They fail and and that is not uncommon. good luck

red never connects to black as that is power to neutral if wired correctly get in a qualified electrician to check the wiring and help you install the unit