20 Most Recent Cooper Lighting Lighted Switch Questions & Answers

Is the CFL new? If not then it may be lacking sufficient gas to keep it ignited. Start by replacing bulb.

What kind of switch?Single-pole-3-way?Does switch turn off Hot wire according to code... or is switch wired wrong and turn off neutral wire instead?Identify Hot wire inside switch box, and make sure Hot is connected to switch:http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-switches.htmlDimmer?Is the light grounded?If light is not grounded, it might not work right.If there is a small short to ground , light may not work as expected.Test hot wire to ground with multimeter?Add a comment for followup after testing.Geneh If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

Make sure each fixture is grounded.Add a comment after that. If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

You could be getting power from the source in the switch ... does this flickering occur with a non illuminated switch? Have you tried the CFL in other sockets? Have you checked the socket in question for proper polarity? (Hot wire should be broken by the switch and that hot wire should be connected the bottom of the CFL in the socket). Does your switch have a white wire for the neutral connection or are you using the ground wire to illuminate the switch ... or is there a different lind of light in the switch and/or do you know?

Normally ... let me say again ... normally, (in a traditional sense) an illuminated switch should have a neutral connection, a ground lug and the expected 'in' and 'out' for the switch leg. Normally, I would expect the switch leg to use a black from the power source (normally found in the box where the socket is mounted) and a white from the 'off' side of the switch to the socket.

I tried to draw you a diagram ... but it didnt work out and you probably already get the picture.

If everything checks out ... and it still flickers, replace the switch with a non-illuminated switch or use a incadescent light until they are no longer available.

Thanks for your interest in FixYa.com

Question is not clear.
Open following link for 3-way switch illustration:
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-Cooper-277-pilot-light-switch.html#3-way

I'm assuming you mean to see if there is power to it, to do this first remove the cover around the lightswitch then unscrew it from the wall, flip it over and get a multimeter and place the positive end on the white wire and the negative end on the black wire and see what it comes up as, it should read around 110 volts.

what is happening is the one with two black wires is connected to a three way circuit aslong as you connect one wire to top of switch and other to bottom youre ok dont try to change the wiring the circuit wont work just see one wire as white connect it as normal

That's how my fan works, too. One click puts it on HI, another puts it on MED and the last turns on SLOW.

If the old switch only had two terminals/screws, then it shouldn't matter. If the screws on the new switch have color, then: silver screw, white wire.
gold screw, black wire.
If the old switch had more than two terminals/screws, be careful when turning on the first time!
Gary

You have new wiring device.
Device controls fan and light.

To control fan and light separately from wall box, requires a separate wire to each Load.
So box requires one wire going to fan, and a separate wire going to light.
If previous switch has just two wires that controlled both fan and light, and then fan is controlled with pull-chain, it sounds like new device requires another wire be added to circuit.
Add a comment and say how many cables enter wall box, and say color of each wire in each cable.

Without knowing exact wires in your box, or exact device ... I can suggest answer based on typical wiring.
Compare this answer with instructions that came with device.

How to wire fan-light device:
-Device-green wire always connects to bare copper wire
-Device-black always connects to black Hot wire from breaker
-Device-red usually connects to wire going to light
-Device-yellow usually connects to wire going to fan

People frequently write fixya report that lighted device doesn't light up.
And they report device is wired correctly.
Or they report one device lights up and the other doesn't.
If two devices don't work, I suggest they swap devices to see if same problem happens in other location. No fixya customer has added comment to reveal result of swapping device.

After searching Leviton, Lutron and Cooper websites, there is no conclusive answer.
Manuals show lighted devices, and show ordinary one-for-one replacement wiring ... there is no secret technique for getting device to light, just attach wires like ordinary switch.

Check that ground wire is connected.
Install device in another switch location and see if it works there, which would indicate possible electrical ground fault at first location.
The wrong device was put inside the sales box.
The device is defective.

If I understand correctly, you have a dual switch with one switch stacked above the other.

If this is not correct, add a comment and I will help further.


On each side of the switch are screws with different colors.
The brass screws show in photo above.
Sometimes these screws are dark-colored.
The brass screws are connected by a brass plate so both screws are the same thing.
Your black hot wire from breaker goes to the brass screws.

On the other side of the switch are two independent silver-colored screws.
If the screws on other side of switch are dark-colored, then the screws on opposite side are brass and not silver colored.
Your black wires going to Load (fan, light, motor) go to each of these screws.

Each switch receives the same power source through the brass-colored screws on one side of switch, but on the other side of the switch, each wire is independent as each switch controls a different Load.

Contact a glass company, but also look for a stained-glass maker.

Stained glass is set inside a soldered frame. That person will have the tools to fix it.

You will probably have to get a handy-man to remove the outdoor lamp so it can be taken to the glass shop.

I hesitate to answer question because the color of the screws is not identified. The holes are not identified which color screw they are next to. You can fill in these blanks when answering if the following information is not complete.

First of all, the green screw goes to bare ground wire and isn't discussed further

Usually a single pole switch has 2 brass-colored screws.
This tells you the wires from old single pole switch can connect to either screw.
Normally the quick-connect holes are located next to a screw >> that screw and the hole are connected. Sometimes there are two holes next to a screw >> and the same rule applies that holes are connected to screws they are next to.

If your switch has two screws and the colors are brass and silver, then that tells you something else.
It says that black-hot-wire-from-breaker connects to brass screw.
And wire-going-to-load (fan, light, motor) connects to silver screw.
If you do not know which wire is which, connect wires, if device doesn't work, then reverse the wires.
Again the quick-connect holes are located next to screw they are connected to.

If your switch has threes screws, then that switch has 2 brass screws and 1 dark screw.
You can wire this device as a single pole by connecting wires to dark screw and either brass screw

Hi there,  Have you checked to see if you have power getting to your switch? You could've tripped a circuit breaker, so I would check your electrical first to rule that out. Once you've checked for power, put your switch in the OFF position. Next, take off the light from the ceiling...leaving just the two wire's hanging down and apart from each other. If you have a voltage tester/meter, then you'd want to turn the switch ON again - then check to see if you're getting power (voltage), as well as, a complete circuit. If so, great! If not, contact me again and I'll help you further. But I believe you'll have found the problem already after following the above steps. Make sure to secure each connection when putting your light back up onto the ceiling. And, DON'T turn the switch back on until your light is securely mounted. Good Luck with this, and feel free to contact me again if this doesn't work. - Jim

To add a second switch to control an existing light, you need to get a 3wire cable between the two switches, Thats red, black, white, green wires in the cable. Then you would have to use two 3way switches to make it work. I posted a "tip" on how to wire the 3way switches ..

Please Vote !!

I can probably help you, but I need more info. Are you replacing a single switch that operated both of these lights together? Do you have 3 black wires and three white wires in the box now? Are the 3 white wires all connected together? Were 2 of the black wires connected to one terminal of the old switch, and 1 black wire connected to another terminal of the switch? ----- I'm doing lots of guessing here so that you understand the kind of info I need.

As I describe the number of terminals, I am not counting the ground terminal (usually colored green.) A four-way switch has four terminals. Two are for two "travelers" coming in, and two are for "travelers" going out. One pair is at the top, and one pair is at the bottom. You only need to use a four-way switch if you are wiring three or more switches together to control the same light. In the case of three switches, only the middle one needs to be a four-way, with the first and third switches only needing to be three way switches. If you are only wiring two switches together, you only need to use three-way switches. However, you can use a four-way switch in place of a three-way switch by only using 3 of it's 4 terminals. . . Before I write the rest of a very long reply, please ask me some more questions so that I can focus on what you need to know. Please describe what you are doing.