First things first, remove the fill valve, and the flush handle mechanism. This will give you plenty of room to work with the flush valve. Before installing flush valve lubricate tabs with plumbers grease. Now put on a pair of work gloves, pushed down very hard and turn the tabs should slide easy because of the grease. Remember do not alter the gasket, the gasket needs to be compressed to do its job. I know removing the fill valve and the flush handle seems like a pain, but there is no way to get your hands in the proper position to install the flush valve assembly.
Save that valve... !
Use a fluidmaster (diaphram) part #242 as a replacement substitute!!
Easier than most pill bottles... !!!
(turn off the water)
The valve seems to be very thin plastic but mine lasted 20 years before needing a new diaphram. I cold hear the water going (seep. seep, seep))... and changed the flapper valve... Wrong!
I actually bought the new white plastic one to experiment on... but never got that far... Great price ($26) from Amzn (new spare... still in box)
The white VALVE (right) end of the 1068030 twists off easier ... over the top (clockwise: less than 1/8 turn... there is a little white lock bar on the very back that has to be pressed in to allow rotation).
Ignore the (blue) float lever... you wont be turning anything that far.
The expensive & unavailable KOHLER diaphram can be substituted with a $2 FLUIDMASTER #242 diaphram... available everywhere... Home Depot, ACE, General Plumbing Supply... (Amazon = $4 +/- shipping, (local "dealer" had nothing in stock... of course)).
Kohler.com ships for a whole lot more!
Sadly... THAT very SAME FLUIDMASTER #242 will also fit in the "Kohler 703" valve everybody seems to be throwing away (the easiest valve I have ever repaired).
The GRAY "703" valve seems to be very thin plastic but mine lasted 20 years before needing a new diaphram.
That is a hard twist 1/8 turn: counter-clockwise... same #242 diaphram... 5 minute job!
Six minutes if you hold a cup over the valve and rinse it out like you are supposed to do...
Roberta3fan could be giving bad advice based on experience with other toilets. This does not seem to be an option for this toilet design. I am in a similar situation and it appears that the nut (and it is a metal bolt) is not what you would expect. Here is a picture of the anchor kit for this toilet seat:
I am going to assume that the sleave that should be engaging the bolt is cross threaded and try to grab it with a pair of vice grips. I'll let you know if it works.
Kohler will try to sell you $46 anchor bolt kit 84999 & also there special tool. You should expect that for a $400 toilet.
Try this instead:
1. Use 1/8" drill bit and drill and drill around the bolt until the anchor material can be removed.
2. Carefully clean hole with 11/32 drill to remove all remaining acchor material.
3. Go local hardware store & buy a 10 - 32 3/8"X3/4" rubber expansion plug (make certain threaded part is brass & has shoulder on 1 end), a 10 - 32X1.5" Phillips bolt and couple of small fender washers fit the seat.(about $4 for 2)
4. Assemble carefully not to over tighten and crack the porcelain.
Here's an idea----If the hinge piece is plastic, cut it away to expose a bit of the bolt and use vise grips and pull. Maybe put a thin metal plate next to the bolt so you can pry up on the vise grip. Or maybe you can get a grip on the hinge itself with the vise grips. The insert is going to be plastic, so if you can get a grip this should work. Or you might try drilling a small hole in the hinge piece very close to the bolt so you can get some super glue down in there to lock the insert is place. Hmmmm, this might be a bad idea unless you have a hypodermic needle and bolt is not plastic.
My toilet is running, how do I fix it?
To solve this problem, you'll want to ask the following questions:
Is water running into the overflow tube? If so, lower/adjust the float valve. By doing this it will float higher closing the inlet valve.
Is the chain too slack or too tight? Make sure the chain has only 1-2 beads of slack.
Has the water in the home or surrounding area been recently shut off for some reason? This could cause debris to come up through the water pipes and settle into the diaphragm seal of the fill valve. Flush out the diaphragm seal.
This is not an unusal problem; here is a video that may provide more assistance:
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