Kohler Kubota GL 7000 Lowboy II Diesel Generator - Page 8 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

the chirping you hear is probably from a worn cam or valve lifter.usually these engines use an oil slinger to throw oil around the crank case.if the oil gets too low parts will wear away faster.sorry to say but your engine has probably had it and is due for a rebuild.always keep the oil at sufficient level and change it regularly

If you have a drip leg near generator open that up for a sec and then try it again.

i have a Kohler 16 Magnum opposed cylinder engine and it wont crank over with the spark plugs in it,battery and starter are both good,its an aluminum engine and i have seen several of the Kohler engines break the automatic compression release on the cam gear and they seem to lock up while trying to start,pull the plugs and the crank fine,Kokler is the most expensive engine i have seen and their parts are outrageously priced,old Kokler was a good engine,newer ones in my opinion are junk,i work at a small engine shop,i have seen new Kohler engines with a broken ACRs,i work at a second job,we got a new supervisor that worked for Kohler before her came to our plant,he said he worked customer service at Kohler and he heard complaints constantly from people using their engines and the returns were out the roof on their engines,what im saying is i wont ever but another Kohler unless itsm an old one,Thanks Tommy

Already solved.

You are going to have to register with Kohler and use this site to get your part:http://www.kohlerpower.com/residential/sectionfront.htm?sectionNumber=13561

sure you didnt add oil to the gas, or accidentaly put diesel fuel in the tank. has the unit been flipped over recently- this can flood oil into the cylinders and take a long time to burn off.

Hi, I believe you should replace the soleniod. You should be getting 12v

Usually a fully charged battery will be about 13.4 volts but at 10-12 volts you should at least here the starter solenoid click. Anything less then that is questionable. Your thoughts on the wiring sound valid so I would start by inspecting them.

There are a few more components to check in the system. From the information provided this is not a Kohler generator as Kohler makes all their own AC alternators under 350KW, seems you may have just a Kohler engine (probably a CH25). Cannot find any info on the voltage regulator which leads me to believe it may be integrated into the main controller. Curious to know who the manufacturer is. If the capacitors are good, try checking the diodes. A volt/ohm meter with a diode check will do. Voltage reading on one side and nothing on the other. If you have no access to a diode check feature, try reading it through a battery NOT SHORTED TO BATTERY hook a meter to a battery and put the diode between one of the leads to the positive, one way will read voltage the other will read open, no voltage, or OL. Look for any fuses or breakers blown / tripped. 6 VAC on the output is about residual voltage meaning voltage the alternator makes without any help from a voltage regulator or field voltage. This usually means the alternator / rotor windings are still good. This alternator is brushless so you could seperately excite this unit via a 12V battery through your field. Look for your exciter field winding, it should have some kind of label on it saying F+ and F-, apply 12V here momentarily on + & - respectively with the unit running and you should see your output voltage spike. This tests the alternator. If this tests ok, then check to make sure your wiring / fuses from the alternator to the controller or voltage regulator (voltage sensing leads) are ok. If all these check ok, it is likely you have a bad voltage regulator.

Check the genset controller for a fault, low oil psi, no output voltage, overspeed, overcrank / no crank disconnect signal / starter staying engaged, high engine temp.

it sounds like that, I would look at the needle valve to make sure opening. What I would do is remove the bowl and let gas flow thru it, then push up on the float valve and release to see if you get another stream of gas. What you can try also because I think there is gum(from stale gas) is running with the choke partially on till it starts to flood out and the open choke and see if continues to run. I don't know how extensive you mean when you say "cleaned" the carb but you might have to again with a good carb cleaner or find a soak for it.

Trouble is caused by either a carb mixture being wrong or a gummed condition in the carb.

Hi,
You did not say what fuel you running the motor on??? It sounds like it may be LPG or Propane.... is so then it seems as though you do not have enough surface for evaporation...

heatman101

try to find the manual , these units have a pre program set from the factory, dissconect the unit at the generator 1)battery terminal 2)main switch on generator 3) reconnect battery and turn on the switch,press auto,should reset

look for a breaker on the unit or a Gfci reset button, that would be on the plug itself

Try running it on a colder range of spark plugs. One with a shorter porcelain insulator around the central electrode. This runs the heat away from the electrode more efficiently and should eliminate the hot spot. Kohler recommend their own OEM plugs, the part number is 359979. Compare that with other plugs and see if you can match up a colder version.

Try raising the engine rpm slightly. there should be a adjustment on the piece that hooks to a spring which is connected to the governor arm.

Make sure oil level is up to par. When it shuts down take the wire off the low oil switch and see if it runs.

hi it sounds like to me that you need to check your valve clearances. It sounds like as the engine warms up, the metal expands and the valves then do not close fully, hence the miss. The engine cools and the metal contracts, valve clearance is good, engine runs fine. Check the tolerances right before you start the engine, then after it starts to miss.
JOe

I had same problem and to make a long story short, it wasn't any common problems like oil pressure switch, etc. Solution was the start stop coil/ ignition coil. Looks like a 1" ice cube behind the panel and it usually (not always) has a tattle tail indicating failure.