20 Most Recent American Standard 2771.002.021 Cadet 5' x 36" Bathtub, Bone Questions & Answers


check for power at plug in if power your vacume switch is probably out replace switch.

American... | Answered on Dec 16, 2012


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American... | Answered on Sep 03, 2011


REplace the assembly

American... | Answered on Sep 22, 2010


Hi,

Your first impulse might be to reach for the can or bottle of trusty drain cleaner. But, hold on just for a minute. Here's another solution might just work, and if it doesn't you can always revert to the chemical solution. Begin by pouring cup of salt down the drain and then flushing it with lots of boiling water. Keep the hot water flowing in order to push the clog on through, and your drain should be good to go once again. This usually works quite well, unless the drain is plugged with something plastic or metal.

Next, try using a plunger. This usually works, as long as you remember to plug the overflow. In order to do this, you have to remove the two screws that attach the overflow plate and then remove the components, including the stopper. Clean these items up using soap and water, being careful to remove any hair, grease, or anything else lodged on them. Now, plug the hole in the tub with a rag and use the plunger to force water down the drain, dislodging the clog in the process. If all is well simply replace the stopper assembly, cover plate and mounting screws.

If this doesn't work, the next step is to try to clear the clog by inserting a flexible wire, usually an unwound coat hanger, into the drain hole. Coat hangers are ideally suited for this purpose, as they are just flexible enough to work their way through the bends in the drain pipes, as well as stiff enough to dislodge anything that could causing the clog. Wrap one end of the hanger wire with a cloth or wear a glove in order to get a firm grip on the wire. Push it through the drain as far as you can, working it back and forth as necessary. If you can't seem to get the wire through the pipes, try inserting the wire through the overflow opening.

If this doesn't clear the clog, the next step would be to try using a plumber's snake. These are inexpensive and it's a good idea to have one handy. Just insert the wire wound tip into the drain as far as it will go. Tighten down the binding screw onto the snake and twist. As the tip turns inside the drain, it will grab onto of anything it finds. If it's only a bend in the drainpipe, the snake will work itself around the corner and you can push it further into the pipes. If you have to go more that three for four feet, you probably have a more serious problem and should call a plumber.

If none of these attempts to clear the clog work satisfactorily, try the chemical solution. Chemical drain cleaners are usually safe for septic systems, but are caustic and dangerous when mixed with water. You should never use them in combination with any other chemicals. Wear safety glasses and protective gloves before opening the container and emptying the contents into the drain. Be sure to read and follow the instructions provided on the label.

Finally, these suggestions don't work it's probably because the clog is deeper into the pipes than you, or the chemicals can reach. It's a good time find a phone book and call a plumber.

Good Luck!!

Thanks!!

American... | Answered on Aug 15, 2010


There arn't any provisions for ejecting water out of the pumps that i know of. The pipes are installed on the tub so that they will gravity drain back into tub. The pump wouldn't be able to run unless fully submersed in water above the jets, i mean it will but not for long. I would sugest disconnecting elec. to pump until you resolve the issue or else the pump will burn.
-This sounds like some kind of air switch problem. Something is causing the air switch to sense the air pressure excerted through the air hose without the button being pushed. This is the only thing it really could be since the power to the pump goes through this switch. I cant imagine anything else causing this other than a faulty air switch on the pump itself. This would mean the pump would need to be replaced since the air switch is sealed in place at factory. Unless some how, some way, air pressure is increasing in the air hose all by itself, not likely. But check the air hose connections on the pump and the button on the tub, if you can even see it. The hose may be partially attached and any slight movement while partially attached could push air into the switch but thats kind of a long shot. I dont know if a craked or split air hose could cause this to happen but i guess its possible.
-If i had to bet on it i would definatly say the pump switch is defective.
Good luck!.............T.Wood CFE Plumbing

American... | Answered on Oct 29, 2009


it is not....you will have to cut it...that means you will have to get some hose to add in and a coupler to connect the 2 cut ends back together. There is a glue made by Oatey...called rain-n-shine, that will glue the hose to the pvc.

American... | Answered on Oct 25, 2009


From the sound of it the pump has seized and the thermal breaker is tripping causing the off and on buzzing sound. The problem could be in the motor or the pump attached to the motor. The easiest way to check this is to pull the pump/motor assembly out and check the rotation of the impeller. The impeller should spin freely with no drag. Most pump/motor assembly have a screw slot in the back under a plug or just open in the middle of the back of the motor. In some cases this test can be done without removing the pump/motor assembly. If the motor and pump do not spin freely, puchase a new pump and motor as one unit..

American... | Answered on Sep 06, 2009


Is the switch connected to the pump?  I have had a few tubs that I have installed where the air line (the switch operates by air pressure) has become disconnected from the pump.  Just slide it back on and secure with a zip-tie.  There might also be a safety switch on the pump that needs to be pushed or the GFI on the wall outlet has been tripped. 

American... | Answered on Apr 14, 2009


sometimes theres caps on top pop the cap and tighten the screws and sometimes there are nut or wing nuts on the bottom...simple enough for you?

American... | Answered on Sep 06, 2019


Depends how old your toilet is, it may be a calcium build up problem on your little inlet pipe inside your tank, but first check your water shut off valve on left side of your toilet near the wall....It may not be open all the way OR the valve has an issue...

American... | Answered on Jul 12, 2019


Hey, One thing is that maybe there might be some loose plastic shavings in the fill line. From the Factory? or maybe was inside the water line going to the toilet when you connected the line to toilet. Shut off the water and get some towels and something to catch the water and disconnect it from the toilet and use bowl or what ever to catch the water and slowly turn it on and see if anything comes out. Maybe if it is in the line inside the toilet it might fall out by lightly tapping on the fill line inside the toilet to help it fall out. Just a thought when you said it "Sings" that sounds like trash inside the line going to the filler tube and bowl, hey try it who knows it might work. Okay

American... | Answered on Jul 12, 2019


Hi,

First, carefully remove your tank lid, and place it where it won't break or fall. Look for a four-digit number located on the back of the tank, near the water level mark. This is your tank model number. If the number starts with a two, it is a one-piece toilet.

Then....visit this link:
https://www.americanstandard-us.com/parts-support/faqs/toilets

Good Luck!

American... | Answered on May 06, 2019


More likely the sensor has malfunctioned.

American... | Answered on Nov 24, 2018


these are called phantom flushes. the water is slowly leaking around flapper or the is a scratch of the flapper seat. I use fluidmaster parts

American... | Answered on Nov 12, 2018


Toilets wear out from mineral deposits. Fixn may cost more then new. Googl used commodes first

American... | Answered on Nov 04, 2018

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