20 Most Recent General Electric GE SmartWater Household Water Filtration System - GNWH38F - Page 6 Questions & Answers

The eductor assembly is plugged. This is where the brine is drawn in to regenerate the system. It is the space capsule looking thing on the left side of valve. The owners manual has directions to repair this. You may find your manual here.
http://products.geappliances.com/ApplProducts/Dispatcher?REQUEST=SpecPage&Sku=GXSF30H
RJ

Check the time of day, and make sure it's accuate. Reset if necessary. Add salt if it's low. It's always best to let the salt level run low (about 1-2") so it doesn't mush. Only add 80-100 lbs at a time for best results. This particular softener doesn't keep a water level in the tank, so you won't see any water in the salt area. If there is standing water in the salt area, that could mean it's not working the way it should. Here is a link to the owners manual. It's in PDF format

http://products.geappliances.com/MarketingObjectRetrieval/Dispatcher?RequestType=PDF&Name=003674144.PDF

Why did it fail? How did it fail? Was it the plumbing that failed? Replace it with a Pentair filter housing, 10" housing, 20" housing or Big Blue housing and make sure it is plumbed in properly. It is very unusual for a filter housing to fail unless it freezes up.
RJ

When you replace the drive motor and plug the unit back in it will cycle through several times to reset itself and HOME out the valve.
RJ

You need to cut water supply to filter, you may want to put a bucket or something to catch water under it, then, press the button on filter to release pressure in filter. If you have a wrench for it, the wrench should slide up from bottom and engage ribs on side of filter. Turn counter clockwise to remove, sometimes you can do this by hand. You can also use a strap wrech, just don't break canister. You also want to try not to strain your pipes if they are not supported. Any way, you may have to figure a way to grip canister to twist off. You do not want to overtighten for this reason. After you change your element, make sure the o-ring in the lip inside of canister is in place. Twist back on, clockwise. Turn your water on and check for leaks.

Well GE manual is certainly careful not to show how to install this thing.
http://products.geappliances.com/MarketingObjectRetrieval/Dispatcher?RequestType=PDF&Name=982440113.PDF
GE parts phone number: 800.626.2002





Blue line connects to bottom of Faucet that comes with unit. I assume the faucet fits in pre-drilled hole in your sink, for example where the spray hose used to connect.

Yellow line connects to top of tank that comes with unit.

Green line connects to cold water line. You might have to make some changes to your cold water shut-off valve to connect green line. If product does not come with a fitting that connects to shut off, then I would probably buy a shut-off that has two connections.



Red line is a mystery. It looks like a discharge line, and the manual is blank on the installation. If the faucet does not have a second fitting, then the red line is probably suppose to rise up to the height of the faucet before dropping down into the drain. This amazingly sanitary plan does not show specifically how to tap onto the drain line, so I suppose you drill a hole and wrap it with some sort of sealant, and then duct tape the red line to side of drain pipe to make sure it doesn't fall out. But I'm not sure what installation method is best for this. It will be a challenge getting your electric drill into the cabinet to drill into chrome tubular drain pipe without bending the tubular wall. Hopefully you have a plastic drain line and perfectly sized drill bit. I can't imagine you're supposed to install a plastic cup under the sink to catch the drain flow.

Manual says you need screwdriver, pliers and a drill. The tool list seems a bit short.

Add a comment here and let others know the details of your installation because you know others have same questions, and they will see this post.

Absolutely feel obligated to upvote the free help.
Or take advantage of fixya paid help.
For a price, expert works with you while you work on smartwater or any do-it-yourself project.
Fixya is always less expensive than a service call.

Filters always reduce pressure.
You can add a pressure tank between filter and tankless.
Tankless are sometimes like bowling on a ship.

Add a comment saying how you fixed problem.

Fix most tankless problems yourself, same day, all brands for $330.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-install-gas-water-heater.html

Absolutely feel obligated to upvote the free help.
Or take advantage of fixya paid help.
For a price, expert works with you while you work on water heater or any do-it-yourself project.
Fixya is always less expensive than a service call.

http://waterheatertimer.org/pdf/GE-smartwater-GXWH.pdf
Optional accessories are available (Visa,
MasterCard or Discover cards accepted) by
visiting our Website at ge.com or from Parts and
Accessories 800.626.2002 (U.S.) or 800.663.6060
(Canada).
Maybe they got them, maybe they don't.

Absolutely feel obligated to upvote the free help.
Or take advantage of fixya paid help.
For a price, expert works with you while you work on filter or any do-it-yourself project.
Fixya is always less expensive than a service call.

http://waterheatertimer.org/pdf/GE-smartwater-GXWH.pdf

Absolutely feel obligated to upvote the free help.
Or take advantage of fixya paid help.
For a price, expert works with you while you work on filter or any do-it-yourself project.
Fixya is always less expensive than a service call.

The problem is that the unit is not creating a suction and taking out the brine water. Usually with this model the problem is the rotor and rotor disc seal. It can also be that the nozzle and venturi is clogged. You will need a service call to fix this problem. You can bail it out with a pan, but the problem will return until the service problem is fixed.

To replace the filter cartridge. Do the following;
1. Assuming that you have a pump in your water filter
system, shut it off.
2 Close the intake valve before your filter system.
3.To relieve the pressure, open the faucet after your
filter system. Any of your faucet for that matter.
4.Once the pressure is relieved, you can of course
replace the the filter cartridge.
the filter cartridge

need better details from your question

Unplug system, wait 1 minute, plug back and see if it clears. You may have had a power outage. If so reset settings on control. here is the link to manual.
http://products.geappliances.com/MarketingObjectRetrieval/Dispatcher?RequestType=PDF&Name=49-50176-3.pdf

RJ

You are going to have to clean the salt block out of the tank. You can try using the end of a broom handle to try breaking it up. Be careful not to go to bottom of tank. Try pouring a couple gallons of hot water over salt bridge if that does not work and retry. Avoid using pellet salt it causes problems like this. If there is currently water at the bottom of salt tank then system is not working and needs repair.
Hope this helps,
H2O Services

That typically means the softener is in a regeneration cycle. When the valve is switching cycles it quite frequently will have the noise you describe. The regeneration cycle should be set for 2am.
RJ

First thing to do on any gas job is check the fitting line for leaks.
If the piping you are connecting to is "gas tight" then your good to go.
Usually on the compliance plate on the unit there will be a jet sizing chart, find this , it may be on the inside of the cover or on the side at the top.
The jet size for propane is a smaller size orifice than for natural gas,
I use a tiny set of thumb drills to drill the jet to the required size for that burner. (the jets are normally made of brass and are quite easy to drill by hand)
It can be a little bit fiddly actually getting the main burner out of the unit so you can work on the jet. Also very important is that you make sure that you have the exact size drill bit for the jet. Gas appliances can become hazardous if improper jet sizes are fitted!!
This may not be a task for a novice, if in doubt, get a qualified gas fitter to check your work.

sounds like a bad thermostat

open link below for serial number decoder by manufacturer:
http://waterheatertimer.org/pdf/WaterHeaterSerialNumberDecoder.pdf

Add a comment for more free help.
Also take advantage of fixya expert assistance live.
For a price, expert works with you via e-mail while you work on water heater or any do-it-yourself project.
Fixya is always less expensive than a service call.

can not start my whirlpool natural gas pilot light

Most electric hot water heaters have two thermostats, one near the top of the tank and one near the bottom, and are covered by removable metal cover plates. The thermostats are pressed firmly against the bare metal wall of the hot water heaters tank.

The top thermostat usually has a high limit switch that will trip if the water gets too hot. When it trips it shuts off the electricity to both the upper and lower heating elements.

To reset the high limit switch there is usually a red button that you must press. When the upper limit switch trips it is often an indication that something else has gone wrong with the heater.

When the top of the tank is hot the upper thermostat removes power from the upper heating element and transfers the power to the lower thermostat and heating element. If the lower thermostat is defective, then the lower portion of the tank will not be heated and the supply will be greatly reduced. Check for power at the upper thermostat terminals where the power is sent to the lower thermostat and heating element. If there is no power then the upper thermostat should be replaced. If there is power then check for power at the lower heating element. If there is no power at the lower heating element then replace the lower thermostat. If there is power to the lower heating element then it should be getting hot. If it is not, replace it. Another possibility is a broken dip tube. Check for a broken dip tube and replace if necessary. Hope this helps out