20 Most Recent Rheem Water Heater Drain Valve - Page 3 Questions & Answers

Rheem has a tool for you to test theories like this. It is being overhauled https://www.rheem.com/residential-water-heater-product-cross-reference/ Yes, your element is discontinued. https://www.searspartsdirect.com/model/1pmpqe6ok1-001299/rheem-81v52-electric-water-heater-parts Here is the one you are considering. At 1,000 watts less, it will just take a little longer to recover. Phone them, as to speak to someone in the Service Department. They will know. You know we aren't them? We just have a category here at Fixya. https://parts.rheem.com/product/RPD-SP20060 ..

The system I am familiar with uses a vapour pressure type thermocouple and if the pilot remains lit the thermocouple is working as it controls the gas for the pilot and the burner at the same time from the same source - if the gas control is ok and the flow isn't prevented by the thermostat then if the pilot remains alight, there should be a flow of gas and the burner should light - unless the gas jet is blocked or something else, some other type of blockage is preventing the flow of gas to the burner... I suggest you check the gas jet and the flow of gas to it...

Which type of tankless water heater do you have? The Rheem Professional Prestige gas tankless water heater gives error 11 if the gas valve isn't fully open. See the manual here: https://s3.amazonaws.com/WebPartners/ProductDocuments/C5D97959-73D7-4482-9242-83DCE78310C8.pdf . For this water heaters, the first option to check that the gas valve is fully open. If the valve is fully open at the water heater, you may need a technician to check the regulator for your gas line. Every once in a while, I have to contact the gas technician from my local propane dealer to adjust or replace the regulator. It's time to call when the gas appliances have ignition problems due to dirt in the regulator. On another model, https://s3.amazonaws.com/WebPartners/ProductDocuments/7E641D99-EAB1-49E9-8F8A-53AA99F8E0BE.pdf, the error 11 indicates that the unit could not ignite after 10 tries. This can result from low gas pressure (the regulator issue I noted above), a problem with the igniter (power or oxidation on the spark igniter), an issue with the gas valve wire, an issue with the flame detection sensor or the main control. I hope this helps. Note: I've found a number of appliance repair technicians who don't handle gas line problems. Cindy Wells

Rheem fault code 11 - No ignition. Check to make sure there is gas to the unit and that the pressure is correct. Ensure the ignitor is operational before calling for service. Rheem fault code 16 - This is an over temperature warning which could indicate a possible clogged heat exchanger. https://www.horizonservice.net/how-to-troubleshoot-tankless-water-heater-error-codes/ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QsmIyYexRzM

also check water flow if not enough will not light

power correct --water flow /pressure correct -filter clogged if just put in go thru the troubleshooting list in owners manual https://www.manualagent.com/rheem/tankless-electric-rte-13/use-and-care-manual

It is unlikely to be the hot water heater causing the smell, it is more likely the input (the well water) having excess sulfur, bacteria and/or organic material Because it sits in the tank longer, the smell accumulates. If it is a bacterial source, the hot water tank may be a breeding ground for anerobic bacteria. Draining and doing a disinfect with Hydrogen Peroxide (H2O2) is the easiest and safest step http://www.waterheaterrescue.com/Troubleshooting/stinky-water-in-hot-water-heaters.html https://www.stevejenkins.com/blog/2015/02/fix-rotten-egg-smell-in-your-water/

Check the flame sensor is clean and the connection is good

What is the part ??

i don't know. be very careful when working with propane. if this happened to my freezer, i'd guess it was the thermostat. if safe and accessable, consider turning off fuel supply. if adjustable, mark where thermost's setting is. turn thermostat down and up or hot and cold a few times. set the thrmostat at a few degrees lower than the mark.. restart the heater and see if tank will now provide constant hot water.

Thermocouple issue.

i think its "child lock" meaning u need to reset it somehow to clear it.

any plumbing or maybe even an a/c supply should or can get it. there cheap

test and check element draw -safety [reset ] switch failing -water flow

The 30 Amp breaker should be okay for the 5500W water heater. The Rheem Performance Plus 50 gallon water heater, XE50M09EL55U1, requires a 30A breaker for 208V and 240V electrical systems (single or 3 phase wiring). See pages 8-9 of the manual: https://images.homedepot-static.com/catalog/pdfimages/e2/e20f6bed-6a61-43a8-b7d9-d9dd2dae94e1.pdf . You should check the installation manual for your new water heater, just in case. I hope this helps. Cindy Wells

Change sensor .

Faulty reset/temperature cut out or loose connection at wiring block.

I can't find any information on that MODEL you listed in your question. It's sort of like the Rheem Air Handler models but notthing comes back. In any case you will NEED the SERIAL number, as that will tell you all you need to know about it. If you can't decipher SN, call RHEEM and they can give you the info on that unit. Sorry I could not be of more help.

you connected to the drain valve, open valve ccw. See page 21. https://manuals.harborfreight.com/manuals/64000-64999/64686.pdf

Check the pilot thermocouple. You may be able to find one at a home center.