20 Most Recent Rheem 50 Gallon FVR NATGAS Water Heater 6YR 22V50F1 - Page 6 Questions & Answers

Hi,
Sorry, but we do not sell and/or install...only help with troubleshooting existing appliances and other things...

heatman101

Sounds like you have cold water entering the hot pipe, or crossover.

(A) Put bucket under water heater overflow pipe, and stand back from scalding water. Gently open and close the TP relief valve on water heater. Check temperature of water to see if heater genuinely has hot water.
It could be the water heater has sediment build-up and is no longer able to heat the water, or the gas thermostat is bad.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Clean-sediment-out-of-water-heater.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-install-gas-water-heater.html

(B) If water heater has hot water, and hot is not getting to faucet, then you have a crossover problem somewhere.
1) This problem can be located at crossover point of a recirculation system, if re-circ check valve has failed.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Water-heater-recirculation-system.html

2) Failure of a single handle faucet cartridge can cause crossover.
Read how to test for crossover:
http://waterheatertimer.org/pdf/Crossover-on-single-handled-faucet.pdf

3) Other causes for crossover are a failed check valve elsewhere in the plumbing system, for example on the pool equipment. Also a failed mixing valve which is usually installed on top of the water heater so that some areas of the house like laundry room receive very hot water, while the kids bathroom receives lower temperature water.

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For a price, expert works with you while you work on water heater or any do-it-yourself project.
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1) Call service technician.

2) If water heater flooded, contact insurance company for possible replacement coverage.

3) Manufacturer's suggest replacement of any flooded water heater.

4) Be very careful around wet or previously wet water heater.
Insulation inside tank will stay wet. Household electricity is grounded to water pipes that are connected to gas or electric water heater. Touching wet water heater can be fatal.

5) Read label on side of tank for product identification.
Read manual for possible part replacement.
http://www.rheem.com/product.aspx?id=772AB3A7-6282-4A0B-8657-21977DFB57E3
http://globalimageserver.com/fetchDocument.aspx?id=4e20f58c-94ce-4ac5-8971-9337178fb90f
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-install-gas-water-heater.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/Water-heater-manufacturers.html

You have clog in hot water line or inside water heater.
Use Brady BTG100 pressure gauge to assist.
http://www.ronshomeandhardware.com/BTG-100-100-PSI-Water-Pressure-Gauge-p/405357.htm

Put gauge on outdoor spigot and then turn on hot water to get baseline.
Put gauge on water heater drain, and then turn on hot water. If pressure stays high, then clog is in hot water nipple or inside pipes after water heater.
If pressure drops, then clog is in cold water nipple, shut off valve above tank, or somewhere in line between main cold water and water heater.
Water heater nipples, shut off to water heater, and elbows are good suspect.
Any galvanized and copper connection is good suspect.

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1) Open following link to identify product.
http://www.rheem.com/product.aspx?id=CC643E03-4C15-4775-B139-E504A95651F7

2) Click information tab to see EF energy factor
Click specs and documents tab to download on-line manual.
Click Federal tax credit to read information

3) Tax info says: $300 for gas water heater with EF >= 0.82
EF energy factor for 22V50F1 is .58, so the answer is NO tax credit

4) Open following link to maintain efficiency of your gas water heater:
http://waterheatertimer.org/Clean-sediment-out-of-water-heater.html

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Also take advantage of fixya expert assistance live.
For a price, expert works with you while you work on water heater or any do-it-yourself project.
Fixya is always less expensive than a service call.

I just had the same experience and was told to tighten the Thermal couple connection at the control. The thermal couple is the copper line that runs to the pilot light and senses flame. When there is no flame it will not allow gas through the valve. I'm told that sometimes it is not tight enough and the user will suffer the circumstances that you describe here.

It can be tightened with a pair of channel locks or a small adjustable wrench.

Manufactures suggest replacing water heater after it has been flooded.
Otherwise replace the burner and pilot assembly.
Contact Rheem:
http://www.rheem.com/Contact.aspx

Buy water heater locally and install yourself
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-install-gas-water-heater.html

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If you mean the drain valve, then buy garden hose cap at home center.
Cap will have rubber washer that seals tank.
If drain valve is plastic, the cap may not thread on without sanding down end of plastic drain valve.
Otherwise replace drain valve, which is simple if drain valve is brass, but can be difficult if drain valve is plastic.
Turn off power to water heater: Electric: turn off circuit breaker. Gas: turn knob to pilot.
Turn off water, open bathtub spigot on Hot side, drain water heater, remove drain valve with wrench.
If plastic drain valve breaks while being removed, then 'gently' break out broken part using hammer and big screwdriver.
Buy new drain valve at box store in water heater department.
Put teflon tape on new drain valve threads.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Water-heater-is-leaking.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/Water-heater-will-not-drain.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/Clean-sediment-out-of-water-heater.html

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Also take advantage of fixya expert assistance live.
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Hi,

The drain valve can always be replaced so you can drain that with no worries....after it is empty open and clsoe the cold water valve to flush more...

As far as being large enough... that depends...

If you have a teenager like I do that takes 40 min showers in steaming hot water... no....
If you are running more then one shower at a time... then probably not...

The other thing that could have happened is that the dip tube for the cold water inlet has broken off or disintergrated...that happens...
Usually you will then get cold water and the gas valve will not yet have kicked on the burner, because the cold water is not going to the bottom...

If it is a new install... check thet the supply and return are hooked up correctly...

thermostat is gas vavle may also be bad, but not too likely...

heatman101

If you have not already replaced the thermocouple then this may be the problem, If you
have already replaced the thermocouple with a "universal" this may also be the problem
as it may be a different length in relation to the flame of the pilot.

Hi, W/D here.
What you are describing sounds like your t&p (temperature and pressure) safety valve, and resetting one involves some risk. You need to have a plan B if resetting it doesn't work.
Plan B: Locate the valve above the water heater. This is the cold water inlet. Locate the gas shut off knob.
We'll execute plan A. Make sure that we are talking about the t&p valve. It will have a tag attached to it, listing the maximum pressure and temperature for the valve. The valve will also have a lever on the top of the valve, attached to a pin.
Try tapping on the pin that the lever is attached to. These aren't hard knocks, but about the amount of force if you were hitting a tack with a small hammer. Just a few taps, then wait. If this seals off the leak, you're done. If not.....
Get a pair of gloves on before proceeding from here. What you can do is lift the lever on the t&p valve, letting some water discharge out the piping. Caution here, the water can be very hot, so you want to protect yourself. The intent here is to flush water through the seat of the valve, clearing any debris out of the valve so that it can seat properly. There are three positions that you can put the lever in, the ready position, which is it's normal position, partially opened, where you lift the lever until you get water, and locked open where you lift the lever and it stays open when the lever is about 90 degrees opened from the ready position. Get something to catch the water if you need to, Place a washcloth in the unbreakable container to reduce the amount of splash. With your gloves on, lift the lever slowly until you get a steady flow of water out of the valve, then release the lever. If this stops the flow, again, you're done.
If neither of these methods resolve the issue (tapping or flushing), then the valve will need to be replaced.
IF THE LEAK GETS WORSE: (Plan B): Close the water inlet valve to the heater described above, and shut off the gas control knob. Relieve the pressure off of the tank by opening a hot water faucet that is fed by this water heater.
Best regards, --W/D--
Please rate this solution so that we may continue to help others. Thanks.

Its your thermo coupling is bad

If water heater is leaking out of a hole, then tank is rusted out and needs to be replaced.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Leaking-water-heater.html

First thing is protect yourself.
Tank could rupture.
Turn off power
-Electric heater: turn off circuit breaker
-Gas heater: turn knob from ON to pilot, so pilot light stays lit.
Open bathtub spout on hot side and release pressure.

Now you're save.
When you need hot water, turn heater on for 1 hour, use hot water, then turn heater off again.

You can limp along like this for a while until heater is replaced.

I buy water heaters at Lowes, Ace, Home Depot, Sears.
Look for scratch and dent.
Look for same size that you have now.
manufactured homes require heater that is made for that application.
Propane and natural gas heaters have different burner.

Always offer 10% less than asking price on any water heater.
You need teflon tape, 10" pipe wrench, new flexible water connectors, and a drip pan, and maybe insulation blanket.

Read how to install gas water heater.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-install-gas-water-heater.html
To install electric water heater, open link above because some things are same for both gas and electric.
Difference with electric is there is no gas line, and you connect wires same way that they came off.

Take off the cover at the bottom of the water heater below the gas valve and then the flame door behind that (it just lifts out no tools needed) look in the hole and you will be able to see the pilot flame. the videos at the link below will help you.

http://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=lighting+a+water+heater+pilot+light&qpvt=lighting+a+water+heater+pilot+light&FORM=VDRE

1) Rheem does not show that exact model number, since they list current products only.
http://www.rheem.com/products/tank_water_heaters/gas_water_heaters

2) Rheem serial number shows year of manufacture on second 2 digits. So C06 was made in 2006.
Today's manual might not have troubleshoot steps that match older product.

3) 21vp50 is 50 gallon power vent water heater.
Open following link to identify product.
New models have Honeywell electronic gas valve with LCD flashing error codes.
http://www.rheem.com/product.aspx?id=C24E3F52-A6A4-4BC7-AF5B-0DF23A7A0263
http://waterheatertimer.org/gas-water-heater-timers.html#Rheem

4) Sample manual for newer power vent models shows error codes and troubleshoot steps:
http://globalimageserver.com/fetchDocument.aspx?id=a92c7d0e-8a95-48ba-8810-cd714f33d47a

5) Earlier Fixya answer suggests where to buy ignitor for 21vp50:
PART #HSI51409A
http://www.fixya.com/support/t3641891-rheem_21vp50_1_igniter_stopped

6) Your manual should show troubleshoot steps and expanded parts list.
Always save manuals like gold, and save searching later for a manual at Fixya.
If we can't find the manual, then our answers are limited to suggestions and guesses, since we're not on-site and can't perform troubleshoot steps for you.

7) Post your question on professional water heater forum
http://www.thetankatwaterheaterrescue.com/forums/forum3/

8) Call Rheem and they can possibly suggest which local service technician will work on that model:
2600 Gunter Park Drive East
Montgomery, Alabama 36109-1413
Phone: 1-800-432-8373.

9) Call a local plumber.

10) Install inexpensive home-center brand gas water heater yourself:
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-install-gas-water-heater.html

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http://www.ehow.com/how_6464497_replace-temperature-pressure-relief-valve.html

You may need to relight the pilot light. If you light it and hold te button for a few minutes and it goes out wen you release it, you will have to replace the thermo-couple.

No hot water anywhere,or just one faucet,doesn't sound right if burner is working,if its coming on then your gas valve/thermostat on front is not working properly.Can be changed,but I would turn up temp. red dial see if she fires and watch to see if she stays on.Gas valve is threaded in and can be changed,depending on warranty.Could also be dip tube is cracked or broken in half,its a tube that forces cold water to bottem of tank,if not working you'll get a real short shower because cold water is in top of tank.Tube can be replaced,its on the cold water fill side which would have to be taken apart.Thinking now its your tube

If you are wanting to replace the magnezium anode rod you need to shut off the water to your heater and open a valve on the hot side to relieve pressure. The rod or whats left of it is removed from the top of the heater. I'm not sure but I think it's 1 1/8 inch hex nut. You can use a socket or pipe wrench to remove it. Turn it counterclockwise to remove.
You can replace it with standard magnezium rod to extend tank life or if you are haveing odor problems especeilly on the hot side you can get a aluminum rod to help with that. Generally if you are getting sulphur in your water it will smell like rotten eggs. Before you install new rod you should wrap the threads several times. Tighten it up good, close the valve you opened and turn water back on to heater. Check for leaks and bleed air out of hot water lines. Hope this helps you. Thanks

change the thermal coupling to see if thats your problem, it may be. if not then you have a gas flow problem. good day !