A V-10 has less than 25 lbs compression on the two rear #5 aned #10 pots Quiet when cold but rattle noise at op temp,,,!!

Question edited for clarity
Question moved to RVs.

Only if you think water can travel up a ramp? Plus it states this!

Weather Proof Ramp Door with Self-locking compression latch and space saving aluminum powder coated rail kit.

https://www.google.com/search?q=2023+cyclone+CY+4006

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IT NEEDS SERVICE, OR JUST DIRTY IN SIDE, CLEAN IT YET.
FOR SURE MICE NESTS ETC END TO END.

You need to get on to of your camper and remove the cover, typically a few larger screws and maybe washers will secure the housing cover; (is: the AC's on my unit has 3)

1. Check for any foreign objects between A/C (air conditioning) fan and cooling radiator, producing this loud noise. It is not uncommon for a small animal to have gotten on top of your camper and made its way inside the housing, especially if it has been in storage.

2. Look to see if you have any damaged or missing can blades. If material is missing, the balance could be off causing vibrations. It would also be a good idea to see if any hardware is loose and only needing to be tightened.

3. Having a person to assist, have that person turn on the AC and listen for a loud noise comming from the fan's electrical motor. Like any regular electric motor, bearings can wear out and squealing or other noises will be hear before it finally stops completely.

4. It the unit is not cooling enough of not getting as cold as it once did, you may need to get the coolant recharge, typically an authorized HVAC tech can do that.

5. If the AC is not blowing any cold air at all, most likely the part that is bad (cannot recall exact name right now) is like a coil; black, round, a little bigger then a quarter in diameter and a couple inches long with a couple wires on it. If you have a manual with a diagram, you may be able to locate that part.

Above all else, if there are compounded issues going on, you may want to consider a replacement instead of buying several various parts, depending on the age of the AC you have right now. It may cost a little more but a new one will come with a warranty and be more efficient.

Sounds like it needs to be serviced. Contact your local service center directly or online here:

It could actually be the thermostat, the circuit board, the sail switch, but no way of knowing without actually seeing and diagnosing it.

First check the temperature differential. How cold is the air coming out of the vents? How large is the volume of space to be cooled? what color is the outside of the RV? Is this a problem when you are parked or driving? You should get 20 degrees of cooling. If the unit cools and blows a lot of air then it may be that you re trying to cool too large a space and the answer maybe to close off parts of the RV when necessary. If you re driving you can certainly use the engine a/c as well. For this unit you must check the air filter and coils. Clean coils are essential. In an a/c unit cooled compressed refrigerant goes through an expansion valve and becomes cold as it expands. This cold gas makes the coils cold and takes the heat out of the air that passes through. You want the most efficient air flow and heat transfer you can muster. This a/c should do the job. So in your a/c unit there are two (2) compressors. You will not likely be able to run them both off of an inverter (if that is how you are trying to do it, without modifying the inverter for the higher loads.) You may only have one compressor working. Does the a/c do the job when plugged into shore power? If yes that solves the question. if no then figuring out if the second compressor is running is a must along with what it takes to make it kick on. With a little familiarity to how the whole system works you should be able to ferret out the way he system functions and then see what is not working properly. (PS: if you do not find an air filter then the coils will need to be thoroughly cleaned and a filter purchased. Keeping it clean is essential.)

Sounds like the thermistor may bad. But first, gain access to the back side of the refrigerator and see if there is an ammonia smell or a yellow residue on the back of the refrigerator. If either of those are present then the cooling unit has failed and must be replaced.
If that is not the case then there are several ways to test the thermistor.

1: Place the end of the thermistor that is located inside the refrigerator into a glass of slushy water and read the ohms resistance on the plug end which is located on the back of the refrigerator. Compare your readings to the chart. If they are not in range then the thermistor is bad and needs to be replaced.

2: Unplug the thermistor from the circuit board. It will be the harness that has only two wires going into a hard plastic plug. Leave it unplugged for 24 hours and check the temp inside the refrigerator. If the temp has dropped then the thermistor is bad and needs to be replaced.

To replace the thermistor remove the thermistor sensor end from the plastic clip. Remove the plastic grommet from the back wall of the refrigerator. Tape the new plug end to the sensor head of the old thermistor and gently guide it through the hole. Once the taped head/plug passes through the hole you may complete pulling the new thermistor through from the back side. Only pull enough to allow you to plug the new thermistor in. Un-tape the plug end from the head and plug the thermistor in to the circuit board. Reinstall the cover over the circuit board and reinstall the access pane. There will be some sealing putty on the old thermistor harness. Remove that and gently press it back into the hole around the new thermistor harness inside the refrigerator and reinstall the plastic grommet. Install the sensor end into the plastic clip and install the plastic clip between the first and second fins. The higher up on the fin the colder the temp will be inside the refrigerator.

Double check that by-pass valves are in proper position, as well as any winterizing valve is in the off position. Some units have a winterizing valve and hose to put in jug for winterizing, that needs to be shut off otherwise it will suck air. Back of water heater- lower fitting is for cold water in, valve should be open, and top fitting is for hot out, which should be open as well. Any valves that may be in between those 2 lines such as a "t" between lines should be in off position. Keep in mind, water heater has to fill first before any good pressure will come out taps. I normally open bathtub hot tap because it\'s less mess and let it run until i get good steady flow from faucette, then do the rest, hot cold.

Most likely:
The blower fan, commonly called a 'squirrel cage" probably came loose and is hitting the housing. Furnace must be removed to re-align and tighten the allen screw. The motors themselves are very reliable and last years.

If you didn't cover the inlet/outlet exhaust with a screen when in storage you may have wasp nests. I forgot once and removed 4 paper nests and 2 mud dauber ones. Had to disassemble the whole furnace!