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There can be several reasons for this, the sensors issue, circuit issue and ac issue also can be, i had a simmilar issue in my towing truck which we are using for Long Distance Towing services, so when i make that audit so there was a sensors issue. Now i am using that truck in a Rite way towing https://www.ritewaytowingnyc.com/
I would believe the awning is not in the tongue. The tongue fuse is for the 12 coming in from the tow vehicle. Look for the battery converter, and the fuse panel will be close by.. fuses should be marked by the factory. If not marked, then go back to the awning switch and verify with a metwe you have 12 volts
Speaking from over 15 years of RV experience (including 7 years of professionally delivering them from factories), truthfully, you should avoid the 12 volt function on an RV absorption type fridge. The dirty little secret RV dealers never tell you is the 12 volt function on a 3 way fridge, is not a useful option and more of sales feature. They draw a LOT of power so if you forget to switch to propane or shore power when arriving at the campsite, you will kill the house battery in no time. If you are stopped for any length of time and still hooked to the tow vehicle, you may also kill your tow vehicle battery too. And if your tow vehicle 12 volt power supply wire is not functioning properly, you will kill the house battery, while travelling. A much better solution is to pre-cool the fridge at home before departing, by connecting to the house power overnight. Put some freezer packs in the freezer compartment and they will keep the fridge cold. I know this does not answer your question, but trust me, this is the best route. Happy RVing!
sound like you have a bad battery installed or a bad converter that isn't charging the battery. check your battery to see if it is hooked up and has water in it.
FUSE WAREHOUSE HUH? oK, IF FUSE REPEATEDLY BLOWS, GLASS TUBE? CORRECT? tHEN YOU HAVE A SHORT CIRCUIT OR ACIRCUIT OVERLOA.D. tHE PUMP MAY BE TAKING OUT THE STEREO BECAUSEPUMPS PULL AMPS WAY MORE THAN PRETTY MUCH ANYRHING ELSE.. The pump should have a dedicated circuit. Or remove anything piggy backing on the pump circuit and bump the fuse 5 amps. Here is a trick of the trade. Go to autozone and chk out the AUTOMATIC CIRCUIT BREAKERS. bUY ONE THAT WILL FIT WHERE THE FUSE WENT.dO NOT GET THE SAME AMPERAGE. IT WILL FLUTTER LIKE A TURN SIGNAL FLASHER. NOT DESIRED BECAUSE WHILE THE BREAKER KEEPS ON AND OFFING, yOU WILL HAVE THE TIME TO REMOVE SUSPECTED WIRES. wHEN BREAKER STOPS TRIPPING, YOU HAVE FOUND THE PROBLEM CIRCUIT. tO SLOW DOW THE TRIPPING OF THE BREAKER, GET A HIGHER AMP BREAKER. bUT! dO NOT BUMP IT UP MORE THAN 5 AMPS AT A TIME OR THE RISK OF OVERHEATING YOUR WIRING SOARS. i ALWAYS HAD SOMEONE ASSIST AND WATCH FOR PROBLEMS LIKE WIRES HEATING UP, SMOKE OR SMELL. i DON'T MEAN TO SPOOK YOU, BUT YOU ARE BYPASSING THE DESIGNATED THRESHHOLD BY USING AN ALTERNATE TYPE OF CIRCUIT BREAKER WHICH RAISES THE THESHOLD IN ORDER TO DETECT AND LOCATE YOUR PROBLEM. iF THE
BREAKER CLICKS RAPIDLY, YOU HAVE A DEAD SHORTsLOW ORWIDELY SPACED TRIPPING MEANS YOU HAVE AN OVERLOAD SITUATION(TOO MUCH DEMAND ON THAT CIRCUIT. iF YOU WANT, AFTER ALL IS SAID AND DONE, TO USE AUTO CIRCUIT BREAKERS, gET THOSE OF THE SAME AMP RATING AS THE GLASS TUBE(BUSS FUSE. tO ME, THE METAL CASED ONES ARE FLAME PROOF WHERE PLASTIC MELTS .. tHEY AREN'T CHEAP BUT WORTH A TON OF BUSS FUSES. gOOD lUCK AND BE SAFE - T tHANKS FOR USING FIX-YAED NED-
The refrigerator requires at least 11.5v to continue operation. If your battery is not fully charged before starting your trip the tow vehicle may not be able to maintain the proper charge. Also, make sure that you do not have any lights or 12v appliances other than the refrigerator on while the vehicle is being towed. And, lastly, verify that the tow vehicle is in fact charging the battery as it should be.
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