Brakes locked like in park and is sending surge back through the truck causing the module for brake system to blow. Can pull with out power but as soon as power is added will lock. Any suggestions?

Experiencing difficulties getting the vehicle out of park, starting the engine, and having all gears appear to be in reverse can be indicative of a few potential issues. Here are some common causes and steps you can take to diagnose and possibly resolve the problem:

1. Brake Light Switch: The most common cause of not being able to shift out of park is a faulty brake light switch. This switch is connected to the brake pedal and needs to be engaged to release the shift lock mechanism. If the brake light switch is malfunctioning or misaligned, it may prevent you from shifting out of park. Check if your brake lights are working when you press the brake pedal; if they are not, it's likely the brake light switch that needs replacement.
2. Transmission Linkage or Cable Issue: If the gear selector is not accurately engaging the transmission, it may cause the transmission to stay in reverse even if you've shifted to another gear. Inspect the transmission linkage or cable that connects the gear selector to the transmission to ensure it's properly adjusted and not damaged.
3. Transmission Shift Solenoid Problem: Modern vehicles use shift solenoids to control gear shifting in the transmission. A faulty shift solenoid could result in incorrect gear engagement. Have a mechanic perform a diagnostic scan to check for any transmission-related error codes.
4. Low Transmission Fluid Level: Low transmission fluid can lead to improper gear engagement and cause the transmission to stay in reverse. Check the transmission fluid level and condition. If it's low or shows signs of contamination, refill or replace the fluid as needed.
5. Ignition Switch or Neutral Safety Switch Issue: Problems with the ignition switch or the neutral safety switch can affect the starting process and may also impact the transmission's shifting behavior. A professional mechanic can test these components to determine if they are causing the issues.
6. Electrical Issues: Faulty wiring, connectors, or sensors in the transmission or related systems could contribute to the problems you're experiencing. Have an electrical system checkup to identify and address any potential electrical problems.

Due to the complexity of the issue and the potential safety risks associated with transmission problems, it's recommended to have a qualified mechanic inspect and diagnose the vehicle. They can use specialized tools and experience to pinpoint the exact cause of the issues and provide the appropriate repairs or adjustments. Trying to diagnose or fix transmission-related problems without proper knowledge and equipment can lead to further damage and costly repairs.

Is it a P30 chassis with the auto park brake? If so, there would be what looks like a brake drum where the driveshaft goes into the transmission. That brake is always applied until the motor is running and then is hydraulically held in the release position. The mechanism is integral with the foot brake but even with the foot brake off it will stay engaged. Under the driver seat area underneath the coach is the mechanism. If this is the problem you need to figure out how to release that brake. If you can find a way to pull the cable against the spring tension and hold it there (clamp it somehow) it will free up the system. Of course if you already have the transmission disconnected from the motor then disregard all this and assume i misunderstood the problem.

Touching on what David said, check for the battery disconnect. It should be a red lever located in the front compartments, possibly near the batteries. The plug used for the connection to your truck will only provide power to the parking and brake lights and to the electric brakes on your axles. There will not be any power to your unit. Something else to consider, with the age of your 5th wheel is the life of the batteries. My 2006 KZ needed the first set of batteries replaced in 2013. Use a multimeter to check your voltages or consider taking them to a local Auto parts store to have checked to see if they need recharged or replaced.

The parking brake is a spring actuated band that clamps around a disk located on the drive shaft immediately behind the transmission and is automatically activated when you shift into Park, which mean it should automatically deactivate when shifting out of Park. This band is held open by hydraulic pressure when the rig is shifted out of Park and into a drive gear. Most likely you have an issue with the hydraulic pressure, like the pressure is not being released because of clogged lines, or the spring actuated band may be broken. If you are able to get under the unit to get a visual inspection, you may be able to see or hear any issues. The best way to do this is to have the unit on a stand or at least elevated enough to have the rear wheels off the ground (if using automotive stand, please make sure the jack stands are rated to support the weight of your rig; failure could be catastrophic and deadly, and chock the front wheels well).

Eitherr way, you are not going to like this answer; Freightliner, which manufacturers the chassis, no longer makes parts for some of these systems so an older unit like yours so exactly parts needed may not be available. Freightliner is still making FRED units for new coaches but compatibility may be something you need to discuss with a Freightliner authorized repair shop. In upgrade may be in order but they would be able to give you the exact details. You might be in better luck than someone that has the opposite happen where the brakes were burning up because they were always engaged, even when driving.

Hello, with all the rear lights down at once and the power locks all non-functioning together it makes your task simpler... maybe! You have blown fuses for these systems and they will be marked as such, probably on the underside of the fusebox lid, either under or around the dash on the Drivers side or in the engine compartment. It's very common for moisture to get into the lights and other electronic parts over time and cause those fuses to short out. You'll need a strong flashlight and good vision to see a burnt fuse but a multi-meter would tell you for sure after you pull it out and test it. Happy Trails!

Do you have good power that the outlet. I have seen many issues at RV parks of not having sustained power or one leg of the breaker going bad causing loss of power. If you do have good power coming into the surge protector but not out. Then go through the reset procedures for the surge protector. If it will not reset, then the surge protector has failed and will need to be replaced. If power is coming through then check the main breakers in the coach for possible failure. Breakers can trip but still look as if they are properly set. Turn them completely off then back on to reset.

The jack system is wired through various safety apertures and all must be in the proper setting for the system to work. Many require the emergency parking brake to be set, the vehicle must be in park and I have even seen one system that the driver must be in their seat with their safety belt on before that jacks would retract. The last vehicle I repaired with this issue I found that on the dash the vehicle indicated that it was in park but the neutral switch located on the transmission had not properly locked into park. Have you visually inspected the jacks to verify their position. There are times that the jacks will retract but due to low fluid level the alarm remains activated showing that the jacks are down. With these systems, in most cases, the jacks retracting is basically a release valve being activated and springs pulling the jacks back up into the retracted position.

Not familiar with its configuration and whether it has a selector inhibitor - a system that locks the shift until the engine is run and your foot is on the foot brake - this is operated by a solenoid through a relay. If it has this system it would be more likely that the relay has failed. If you have a technical manual check relay positioning. If it foes not have an inhibitor set up we are looking at torque convertor or gearbox. (Inhibitors were introduced for the auto box when people began saying their vehicle moved without driver input -- "unintended aceleration")